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Old 08-31-2007, 02:25 PM   #1
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This is my first time filter installation experience. I have documented it (aren't digital cameras helpful) to remind myself how I did it last time. So thought I would share it to help other first timers.

Even though many of us have the Freightliner XC chassis, the manufacturer's body design seems to dictate engine air filter access. As this was my first filter installation I needed to predict an extraction path. For our 2004 Journey Winnebago 36G it seemed that the only way to remove this very large canister filter was to remove the filter's air intake assembly piping. By doing this the filter slid out through this vacated space.

Photo 01 below is the shiny new filter. I marked the date and mileage on the filter so when I crawled under I would be reminded. I have all the logs and computer reminders but nothing like an in your face reminder.


Photo 02 shows the old filter installed indicating the engine end and the air intake end.


Photo 03 shows the air intake end.


Photo 04 shows the air intake end piping.


Photo 05 shows the engine end pipe coupling almost completely removed. Note the seal bead. This seal bead must seat into a groove located inside the filter end when reinstalled. I could feel it seat when I pushed it in.

If this bead is not set into the filter's internal groove then per the instructions that came with this Racor filter "a positive seal may not be obtained. In this case catastrophic damage may be caused to the engine." This was a pretty strong warning so I made sure the coupling was seated into the groove.

Also, I found that leaving the piping side clamp (indicated in the photo) tight provided better removal and installation.


Photo 06 shows the two canister filter strap clamps in the tightened closed position.


Photo 07 shows the two canister filter strap clamps loosened after prying them open. Once these clamps were loose the filter moved easily.


Photo 08 shows the space available once the air intake piping assembly is removed. I just loosened the clamps found at each end of the hose.


Photo 09 shows the air intake piping assembly removed. Before I reinstalled the air intake piping assembly I made sure there was no dirt, sand etc.


Photo 10 shows the dirty medium of the old filter. The filter was actually performing with normal back pressure but it was aged.


Photo 11 shows new filter installed.


The removal and installation took about 2 hours. Next time without the first timer delays should be able to do it in a little over an hour. The biggest headache was getting the engine end coupling piping inserted into the filter. I shoved, tugged, pushed, pried and finally the coupling moved in place.
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:25 PM   #2
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This is my first time filter installation experience. I have documented it (aren't digital cameras helpful) to remind myself how I did it last time. So thought I would share it to help other first timers.

Even though many of us have the Freightliner XC chassis, the manufacturer's body design seems to dictate engine air filter access. As this was my first filter installation I needed to predict an extraction path. For our 2004 Journey Winnebago 36G it seemed that the only way to remove this very large canister filter was to remove the filter's air intake assembly piping. By doing this the filter slid out through this vacated space.

Photo 01 below is the shiny new filter. I marked the date and mileage on the filter so when I crawled under I would be reminded. I have all the logs and computer reminders but nothing like an in your face reminder.


Photo 02 shows the old filter installed indicating the engine end and the air intake end.


Photo 03 shows the air intake end.


Photo 04 shows the air intake end piping.


Photo 05 shows the engine end pipe coupling almost completely removed. Note the seal bead. This seal bead must seat into a groove located inside the filter end when reinstalled. I could feel it seat when I pushed it in.

If this bead is not set into the filter's internal groove then per the instructions that came with this Racor filter "a positive seal may not be obtained. In this case catastrophic damage may be caused to the engine." This was a pretty strong warning so I made sure the coupling was seated into the groove.

Also, I found that leaving the piping side clamp (indicated in the photo) tight provided better removal and installation.


Photo 06 shows the two canister filter strap clamps in the tightened closed position.


Photo 07 shows the two canister filter strap clamps loosened after prying them open. Once these clamps were loose the filter moved easily.


Photo 08 shows the space available once the air intake piping assembly is removed. I just loosened the clamps found at each end of the hose.


Photo 09 shows the air intake piping assembly removed. Before I reinstalled the air intake piping assembly I made sure there was no dirt, sand etc.


Photo 10 shows the dirty medium of the old filter. The filter was actually performing with normal back pressure but it was aged.


Photo 11 shows new filter installed.


The removal and installation took about 2 hours. Next time without the first timer delays should be able to do it in a little over an hour. The biggest headache was getting the engine end coupling piping inserted into the filter. I shoved, tugged, pushed, pried and finally the coupling moved in place.
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:39 PM   #3
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Steve,

Nicely done. I'm sure it will be a help to those with the same setup. I notice you're in Florida so when it comes time for me to do mine I'll reach out to you, just so I have someone to come over and do it ptoperly.
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:49 PM   #4
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Layout and procedure matches what I used last spring on my 34H.

Remember, these filters should be changed every TWO years OR 24K miles OR 25mm of vacuum on the gauge. The paper elements degrade over time and, we are told, after two years can self-destruct without warning. The gauge is only useful as an indicator for early replacement if time or mileage haven't been meet yet.
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Old 08-31-2007, 04:03 PM   #5
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Super job! This is something I need to do on my 36G and it is great to see how to do it.

Thanks
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Old 09-01-2007, 02:42 AM   #6
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Good job!

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 09-01-2007, 06:51 AM   #7
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Great pics of the replacement. I have just done mine and also had all of the tugs, pushes, pulls, and few #$*&% words before it finally came out and then had to do the same to get it back in. Took about the same amount of time for me also.
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Old 09-01-2007, 07:09 AM   #8
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So, does that mean it is time to replace our air filter? We took delivery on 12/7/2005 and have about 11,000 miles on it. Filter indicator says everything is a OK.
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:36 AM   #9
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Hi,

Great pics. You got my full attention. I'm sure I need to think earnestly about changing my filter.

Question. Where did you get the replacement filter? Was it a CAT part or another manufacturer? The paperwork for my moho shows a part number as FARR End Inlet 114500-003. Am I close?

Thanks, Carle McFarland, 2004 Journey 36g, CAT 3126E, 33,000 miles with original filter
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:35 PM   #10
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Carle, I purchased the filter at an FMCA rally from the Freightliner Parts trailer. It is a RACOR filter and the nominclature on the filter is: Racor ECO-SE Disposable Air Cleaner; part number 114880-003. My number is different then yours so there is a possiblity they are not the same number. You may want to call Freightliner. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:57 PM   #11
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Carl

If you will go up to www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/000622.pdf
you will find a cross reference chart that will show you cross references to several different manufacturers of your air filter. I think that your filter is actually made by ECO. I noted that your filter number cross references to Dondaldson, Baldwin, etc.

Hope this helps in your search for the filter.

It also gives the dimention of the filters so you can make sure of the fit.
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Old 10-14-2007, 05:48 PM   #12
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Just found your pictures and instructions for changing the air filter, GREAT. Did the filter come down and go back up beside the muffler or does it have to be loosened and shoved to one side a little? My first change is coming up this winter and I've been dreading it since it looks like an awful close fit to get the old one down past the muffler.
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Old 10-14-2007, 07:09 PM   #13
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Steve: Great pictures. One suggestion for those do-it-yourself guys, hose the entire area down a day before the project. The water will clean the work area and limit the amount of dirt in your eyes and teeth. I wish I had done the rinse first...
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Old 10-15-2007, 04:43 PM   #14
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Excellent suggestion Gary. I grew up in a garage helping my auto mechanic Dad back in the '50s and nothing I hated worse than all that dirt and grit in your face, eyes, and ears. I've done some washing to clean around the air dryer filter in preparation for tackling that job but it still needs another shot or two. Trying to look up under, spray a cleaner and the water hose, and not get a face full is fun too.
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