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Old 10-19-2007, 03:43 AM   #1
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This is our first winter with the MH and I have a question about heating and freeze protection. With our old TT, as long as the heater was running our tanks and pipes would not freeze. Is this the same for the MH?
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:43 AM   #2
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This is our first winter with the MH and I have a question about heating and freeze protection. With our old TT, as long as the heater was running our tanks and pipes would not freeze. Is this the same for the MH?
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:49 AM   #3
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Your Vectra is good down to about 20 or so degrees IF you run your furnace alot. We also hang a trouble light with a 100 watt bulb in our holding tank area and also the water pump area to assure us of not freezing those critical locations. Once you get below about 10 degrees F, your unit will get a bit iffy.

Not sure where you live though or how cold it gets where you are going to be.....
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Old 10-19-2007, 05:26 AM   #4
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The info I got from customer service agrees with what FrontRangeRVer said. They said if your furnace is set at 72 degrees you should be okay down to 20 degrees and I have verified that on numerous occasions.
I added a GFI protected outlet in my service bay and use a small electric heater made by Westinghouse that has a feature called "FrostGuard".
When the temp drops below 45 degrees the heater kicks on and maintains 45 degrees.
I have stayed at one place where the temp dropped to 2 degrees overnight and had no freezing.

Please note that the place where I saw 2 degrees (Beaver UT) was on the way to Bouse AZ where it was much warmer.

FrontRangeRVer, we are in Grand Junction right now, but will be heading south after we have Thanksgiving with the relatives we are visiting.
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Old 10-19-2007, 06:14 AM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Clay L:

FrontRangeRVer, we are in Grand Junction right now, but will be heading south after we have Thanksgiving with the relatives we are visiting. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hey Clay...even though the temps are more moderate in that area, you should experience some really cold temps before Thanksgiving....let us know how it goes!!

Mark
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:08 AM   #6
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Freeze protection is wintering the coach in the South!

Seriously though, even with us in central Texas for the winter, we still have to be concerned about the coach's plumbing in a hard freeze.

Last winter at our place we stayed below freezing (mid-high 20s) for three days which is a little unusual. Our furnace was running about a 50% duty cycle (on for 30 minutes, off for 30 minutes) at a set temperature of about 72 degrees. We were still living on the coach, otherwise we would have set the temperature at about 55 degrees.

At the rate of propane consumption we were experiencing, I figured our tank was going to last only 10 days.

The plumbing bay drop light worked well but we needed a 100 watt bulb to keep the bay above freezing. I also needed to lay in some insulation in the bay on a temporary basis since the plastic shell was a great conductor of cold.

Talk to an RV dealer in your area and ask them some general winterizing guidance. Depending on where you live, you might need to go with the complete winterizing schedule. Or you might get by with less drastic methods.
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Old 10-19-2007, 01:29 PM   #7
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By the way, we had a problem with our propane not working below 28 degrees, told it was the moisture in the tank freezing and needed to have something added the next time we got filled up with propane. Anyone else?

TO&gt;: CLAY L I see you are towing a Honda Accord. I was told I could not tow my 2005 Accord. How are you doing this? Thanks,
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Old 10-20-2007, 06:03 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by nanathorn:
SNIP
TO&gt;: CLAY L I see you are towing a Honda Accord. I was told I could not tow my 2005 Accord. How are you doing this? Thanks, </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Honda used to allow four down towing if a specific procedure was followed but changed their policy - I am not sure when it was changed but I think about 2004 or 2005. I was told they did not change the transmission - just the policy - but I don't know if that is true.
Apparently some people did not follow the procedure Honda recommended and there were too many warranty claims.
The letter I got from Honda is below. I have towed my Honda about 50,000 miles and so far the transmission is fine.

LETTER:

2/22/02
(all models except CR-V)

Dear customer:
Regarding your inquiry on towing your Honda or Acura automobile behind a motorhome:
For your vehicle, the Owner's Manual advises against towing at more than 35 m.p.h or for more than 50 miles. However, this recommendation exists primarily because Honda has not conducted formal tests at higher speeds and for greater distances.
We are not aware of any particular problems being caused by motorhome towing of Honda/Acura automobiles with either manual or automatic transmission, so long as proper pre-towing preparations are made and the vehicle is towed at legal highway speeds.

Manual Transmission

When preparing to tow your vehicle, make sure the transmission is full of fluid. Do not overfill.
" Release the parking brake.
" Shift the transmission to Neutral.
" Turn the ignition key to the ACCESSORY (1) position to release the steering wheel lock. Make sure that the radio and all accessories are turned off.

Automatic Transmission

When preparing to tow your vehicle, make sure the transmission fluid level is full. Do not overfill.
If Honda/Acura automobile with an automatic transmission is towed with the front or all four wheels on the ground, you must do the following every day immediately before towing:
" Start the engine.
" Press on the brake pedal. Shift the lever through all the positions (P,R,N,D,2,1).
" Shift to D, then to N. Let the engine run for at least three minutes, then turn off engine.
" Release the parking brake.
" Leave the ignition switch in ACCESSORY (1) so the steering wheel does not lock. Make sure the radio and any items plugged into the accessory power sockets are turned off so you do not run down the battery.
If you travel more than 8 hours in one day (including stopping time), you must stop and repeat the above procedures.
NOTICE:
The steering system can be damaged if the steering wheel is locked. Always leave the key in the ACCESSORY (1) position to prevent damage to the steering system when towing behind another vehicle.
CAUTION:
Severe automatic transmission damage will occur if the car is shifted from reverse to neutral and then towed with the drive wheels on the ground.

NOTICE:

Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine, your vehicle must be on a flat bed truck or trailer.

If you tow a Honda/Acura vehicle with automatic transmission, the fluid must be changed every two years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Although experience has shown that the Honda/Acura transmission and powertrain are capable of being "motorhome towed", America Honda does not assume responsibility for any vehicle damage or liabilities incurred due to the towing device, towing vehicle, lighting hookup, or other towing equipment or towing procedures; any responsibility for these items is assumed by the owner/operator.
If you have additional questions, please call American Honda Motor Co. Inc. (National Consumer Affairs) at 800-999-1009.
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Old 10-20-2007, 07:29 AM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John_Canfield:
Freeze protection is wintering the coach in the South!
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Freeze protection is needed when coming north too early in April!

-Tom
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Old 10-21-2007, 03:04 AM   #10
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We have spent some pretty cold periods in our coaches without casualty. The tanks are heated when you use the furnace and the water freezing in the compartment has been handled previously. However, if you are merely worried about the temps dropping overnight and warming the next day you should have no problem. None of the discussion has covered the the recomendation that you may/will have problems with hookups, sewer hose and water. I hope you will research or ask if that is your concern.
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Old 10-21-2007, 04:26 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by nanathorn:
By the way, we had a problem with our propane not working below 28 degrees, told it was the moisture in the tank freezing and needed to have something added the next time we got filled up with propane. Anyone else?

TO&gt;: CLAY L I see you are towing a Honda Accord. I was told I could not tow my 2005 Accord. How are you doing this? Thanks, </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Someone is passing on bad information.

Propane boils at -44 F. If you have water in your propane tank (highly unlikely) it would settle to the bottom as it is a lot heavier than propane and the only thing it would do is eventually rust out your tank from the inside.

If your regulator or lines freeze, you are seeing frost on the outside and you have a problem with lines that are too small, have a restriction or the regulator is too small. Theres no way you'd see any evidence of freezing on the inside from the outside.
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:08 PM   #12
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I have a 20000 Winnebago Adventurer 35U. I recently purchased it and am wondering if I have heated holding tanks? I am in michigan and will need to winterize it but I wont be putting it up untill December . I plane to take a couple trips with it and am wondering if it gets below freezing will I need to do something to prevent freezing of the water systems? The black book is in the coach at this time and I am wondering if the infoormation will be in it or will I need to call Winnebago service to find out. Thanks in advance.

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Old 10-22-2007, 01:19 PM   #13
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I do not know if you have the heat pads under the tanks or not. But you will still have water in your pipes and the water heater. Our previous Winnebago had a heated basement and as long as you ran the furnace, it kept the basement with the takes warm enough to prevent freezing.

So you will have to have the unit plugged in and run the furnace to protect it. If is not all that hard to drain all of the water system, water heater, tanks and water filters and then blow the lines down through the low point. Put RV antifreeze in the sinks and tub/shower drains as the water in there can freeze as well.

Ken
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:07 AM   #14
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My suggestion for what you want to do; is blow your system out with low pressure air. That way when you are ready to go somewhere, your system is up and running. Be sure the Hot Water Tank is empty, no need to blow it out. It is a good idea to drop some RV anti freeze or windshield washer fluid in the traps so they do not freeze. Then you are good to go anytime.
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Old 10-23-2007, 06:56 AM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by codgerbill:
I have a 20000 Winnebago Adventurer 35U. I recently purchased it and am wondering if I have heated holding tanks? I am in michigan and will need to winterize it but I wont be putting it up untill December . I plane to take a couple trips with it and am wondering if it gets below freezing will I need to do something to prevent freezing of the water systems? The black book is in the coach at this time and I am wondering if the infoormation will be in it or will I need to call Winnebago service to find out. Thanks in advance.

2000 Winnebago Adventurer
Blue Ox tow bar and tow plate
2007 Jeep Wrandler Saraha 4 dr
DW (Gail)
DD Choc lab 4 yr old puppie Buddy </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Winnebago typically uses furnace air to heat the compartment that contains the water and waste tanks. On the two Winnebago's I have owned that compartment is also open to the service bay compartment.
On my last one (a 1996 model) there was a hose from the furnace plenum to the compartment.
On my present one (2004) there are holes in the bottom of the floor duct that allow heated air into the compartment.
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