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Old 02-07-2017, 02:31 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by zman-az View Post
I did the latching relay on my 2011 Vista 26. I used a temporary pushbutton switch and worked perfectly, resetting everytime. I also put some RTV on the buzzer to tone it down a few notches. No longer have that RV anymore, guessing the owner of my old RV is wonder what does this button do?


What relay or relays did you use? I found a relatively small double pole relay pretty inexpensive from Amazon.
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:15 PM   #30
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What relay or relays did you use? I found a relatively small double pole relay pretty inexpensive from Amazon.
Here is what I just finished designing. The parts are on order from Amazon. I am using a momentary contact normally open switch and a spdt relay.

Parts: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll use Stack-on connectors to the component pins. Care must be used to id the lugs correctly when connecting thing up going this route.

Here is the diagram. Double click on it and use Ctrl+ to expand it. I did this on TinyCAD and it is my first attempt at using this program.
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Old 02-08-2017, 06:59 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Here is what I just finished designing. The parts are on order from Amazon. I am using a momentary contact normally open switch and a spdt relay.

Parts: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll use Stack-on connectors to the component pins. Care must be used to id the lugs correctly when connecting thing up going this route.

Here is the diagram. Double click on it and use Ctrl+ to expand it. I did this on TinyCAD and it is my first attempt at using this program.
The relay you have linked to on Amazon is NOT a latching relay. Your circuit will disconnect only as long as the button is held down. Using a latching relay like this one at Amazon would work. Since the circuit is only to break the power to the buzzer, you don't need a 30 amp relay.
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Old 02-09-2017, 05:56 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
The relay you have linked to on Amazon is NOT a latching relay. Your circuit will disconnect only as long as the button is held down. Using a latching relay like this one at Amazon would work. Since the circuit is only to break the power to the buzzer, you don't need a 30 amp relay.
Bob, please look more closely at my circuit. I made a latching relay circuit with the momentary contact switch. As soon as the relay operates the alarm 12V is supplied to the coil. The alarm is silenced and the alarm activation signal is now holding the relay up. When the alarm signal is interrupted, operation of the ignition key/jacks down or jack retraction, the relay will fall off and the alarm is ready to blare again. The parts should be here Friday. Well see if I am correct after that.

I'll post the bench test results.

Rick Y
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Old 02-09-2017, 08:58 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Bob, please look more closely at my circuit. I made a latching relay circuit with the momentary contact switch. As soon as the relay operates the alarm 12V is supplied to the coil. The alarm is silenced and the alarm activation signal is now holding the relay up. When the alarm signal is interrupted, operation of the ignition key/jacks down or jack retraction, the relay will fall off and the alarm is ready to blare again. The parts should be here Friday. Well see if I am correct after that.

I'll post the bench test results.

Rick Y


I think you're right. The relay will be powering either the horn or the pull in coil. Let us know how it works. I came up with a design using a latching relay or a pair of standard relays. But your design looks like it should work. [emoji106]
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:50 AM   #34
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I think you're right. The relay will be powering either the horn or the pull in coil. Let us know how it works. I came up with a design using a latching relay or a pair of standard relays. But your design looks like it should work. [emoji106]
It would be nice to see your design also. There is always a betta way yea know!
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Old 02-10-2017, 09:54 AM   #35
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It would be nice to see your design also. There is always a betta way yea know!
My design was much more involved using a latching DPDT relay or could use two SPDT relays. Jerichorick's design is much simpler and should work equally as well. I plan on using his design now. I like his design a lot better than mine. He's a much better electrician than I.
jt
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Old 02-11-2017, 06:14 AM   #36
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My design was much more involved using a latching DPDT relay or could use two SPDT relays. Jerichorick's design is much simpler and should work equally as well. I plan on using his design now. I like his design a lot better than mine. He's a much better electrician than I.
jt
Thanks for the compliment jt. I graduated from Wentworth Inst in 1966. Used my education a bit after that but not much. Finding that free CAD program the other day is what helped me the most. I remembered the nomenclature I was looking for and that got the drawing correct. The lines are simply logic. The component names were the hard part. lol

My parts are here but not in my hand yet. I am volunteering at a church camp in Alvin, TX. The office is closed. I hope to have time next week to put this together.

What I did build for the Air Force One break light indicator is a remote system. But, that topic is in another thread: Air Force One toad brake indicator light if anyone is interested. That, too, needs to be installed yet.
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:15 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Thanks for the compliment jt. I graduated from Wentworth Inst in 1966. Used my education a bit after that but not much. Finding that free CAD program the other day is what helped me the most. I remembered the nomenclature I was looking for and that got the drawing correct. The lines are simply logic. The component names were the hard part. lol

My parts are here but not in my hand yet. I am volunteering at a church camp in Alvin, TX. The office is closed. I hope to have time next week to put this together.

What I did build for the Air Force One break light indicator is a remote system. But, that topic is in another thread: Air Force One toad brake indicator light if anyone is interested. That, too, needs to be installed yet.
Have you had a chance to proof test your circuit yet? Eagerly awaiting the results.
jt
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:32 AM   #38
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Have you had a chance to proof test your circuit yet? Eagerly awaiting the results.
jt
Been as busy as a one armed paper hanger as of late. Sorry for the delay. I hope to get to it this weekend but it is already getting very full. I'll let you know ASAP. Thanks for the nudge.

Rick Y
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:08 PM   #39
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Finally did it!

Sorry to all following this thread. As I stated earlier, I have been very busy. I finally got to build and test my alarm cutoff circuit today. I seemed to have my fair share of gremlins that invaded my work but I did succeed at accomplishing what we were hoping for.

As of now, when the ignition key is turned and the jacks are down, that loud obnoxious buzzing that is drawing blood from my ears can be silenced with a push of the momentary contact switch that I mounted on the dash. The Jacks Down warning light is unaffected. Turn the key back to off and then back to run and the noise is back until I punch the button again. This is a great day for me.

I am having problems with my htc windows phone loading pictures to my pc. I will attempt to get them from the OneDrive.

I did it! The plastic bag is the schematic of the circuit. The relay is tie wrapped to the alarm case.

I hope the wait was worth it to you fine folk. Please post your results if you attempt this.

Happy trails,
Rick Y
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:28 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Sorry to all following this thread. As I stated earlier, I have been very busy. I finally got to build and test my alarm cutoff circuit today. I seemed to have my fair share of gremlins that invaded my work but I did succeed at accomplishing what we were hoping for.

As of now, when the ignition key is turned and the jacks are down, that loud obnoxious buzzing that is drawing blood from my ears can be silenced with a push of the momentary contact switch that I mounted on the dash. The Jacks Down warning light is unaffected. Turn the key back to off and then back to run and the noise is back until I punch the button again. This is a great day for me.

I am having problems with my htc windows phone loading pictures to my pc. I will attempt to get them from the OneDrive.

I did it! The plastic bag is the schematic of the circuit. The relay is tie wrapped to the alarm case.

I hope the wait was worth it to you fine folk. Please post your results if you attempt this.

Happy trails,
Rick Y
Nice write up, really convenient that your dash pulls forward like that, easy on the back.
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Old 03-02-2017, 08:34 PM   #41
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Thats great! I'm going to do the same with mine after taking it out of storage.
Thanks for the follow up.
jt
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Old 03-03-2017, 06:56 AM   #42
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Nice write up, really convenient that your dash pulls forward like that, easy on the back.
Optical illusion. I had to remove the window pillar cove on the left, the dash pad and the instrument cover housing to get to the alarm location. Now that I have done it a few times it is really not that bad. Lots of screws holding the vents in place.

Since I posted I have tried it a few more time. New toy syndrome. I now have one more reason to be a happy camper.
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