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Old 07-09-2008, 12:07 PM   #1
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Basement Air is 70' at the out regeister. Can not keep on a hot day. It drips a lot of condinsation. How do you remove the unit does it have to be removed from coache to servise.
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:07 PM   #2
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Basement Air is 70' at the out regeister. Can not keep on a hot day. It drips a lot of condinsation. How do you remove the unit does it have to be removed from coache to servise.
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Old 07-09-2008, 01:06 PM   #3
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VietVet

Common problems are:
1 - ductwork separated behind rear cap either at bottom L where it turns upward, or higher up. You might be able to feel the gap by lying on the ground and reaching up along the ductwork. OR, you might have to feel the outside of the cap for cool spots on a hot day while the unit is running. If it is low, you may be able to retape it. If it is higher up, it is likely the rear cap has to be removed to fix it.
2 - #2 compressor not kicking in due to bad start capacitor. You should be able to tell if this is the problem by watching the amp meter when on generator or 30a shore power. When the unit starts, the #1 compressor kicks on, then apx 2 min later the outside fans stop, #2 compressor kicks on, and outside fans startup again. You can listen outside for that sequence, or you can watch the amp meter. With one compressor running you should see apx 18a. With both running you should see apx 23a.
3 - Bad computer board in the electronics compartment -- access like in item 2.

The basement unit is sealed and does not require freon/coolant servicing. Any ac tech should be able to check it out to see that it is operating properly without removing the unit from the motorhome. Just open the access door (it is bolted shut), and the electronics are accessible after you remove a metal access panel. If a compressor is bad, then the unit must be removed to replace it.

When I need service, I go to the RVP website at http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/service/need_repairs.php and check for a certified service person wherever I am.
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:33 PM   #4
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First thing to do is clean the outside and inside coils with simple green and water being carefull not to bend the fins. Then if not working better call rvp. Don
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:37 PM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by AFChap:
VietVet

Common problems are:
1 - ductwork separated behind rear cap either at bottom L where it turns upward, or higher up. You might be able to feel the gap by lying on the ground and reaching up along the ductwork. OR, you might have to feel the outside of the cap for cool spots on a hot day while the unit is running. If it is low, you may be able to retape it. If it is higher up, it is likely the rear cap has to be removed to fix it.
2 - #2 compressor not kicking in due to bad start capacitor. You should be able to tell if this is the problem by watching the amp meter when on generator or 30a shore power. When the unit starts, the #1 compressor kicks on, then apx 2 min later the outside fans stop, #2 compressor kicks on, and outside fans startup again. You can listen outside for that sequence, or you can watch the amp meter. With one compressor running you should see apx 18a. With both running you should see apx 23a.
3 - Bad computer board in the electronics compartment -- access like in item 2.

The basement unit is sealed and does not require freon/coolant servicing. Any ac tech should be able to check it out to see that it is operating properly without removing the unit from the motorhome. Just open the access door (it is bolted shut), and the electronics are accessible after you remove a metal access panel. If a compressor is bad, then the unit must be removed to replace it.

When I need service, I go to the RVP website at http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/service/need_repairs.php and check for a certified service person wherever I am. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's also possible to inspect ductwork joints by removing tail light assemblies and looking through holes with flashlight.
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Old 07-09-2008, 04:25 PM   #6
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Check the filter in the coach they fill pretty fast I replace mine two or three times a year
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:58 PM   #7
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Had the same problem in my 02, Adventure. Turned out to be the thermostat would not
alwayd pick up the #2 comp. Changed out the stat and all has been well for several yrs.
You can watch the amp draw on SHORE power, and when the #2 comp comes on it will increase
by approx 8 amps.
But if you watch the amp meter on GENERATOR power, it will DECREASE the amp draw by about 2amps.
And remember, on gen power the #2 comp is powered from t e 20 amp C/B on the gen.
So make sure to cycle the 20amp braker on the gen set.

Because the 20amp braker is not monitered on the amp meter, (ON GEN. POWER ONLY). I think
that both comp are ganged together. Thus the #1 comp will draw approx 2 amps less, IF gen #2
comes on line.

I hope you can follow, as a wordsmith, I am not......TENN.
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:46 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">if you watch the amp meter on GENERATOR power, it will DECREASE the amp draw by about 2amps </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Not the case on mine -- maybe different generators are set up differently. Mine is a 7.5kw Onan QD.
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:29 PM   #9
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Paul, most likely you are correct as you have a 50amp. unit. And mine winnie is 30amp.
with the 5.5 gen.set. While I am on gen.set. my 30 amp. braker is run thru the energy
management system. And the 20 amp. gen. braker is dedicated to the #2 comp. ONLY..Tenn.
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