<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by AFChap:
Common problems are:
1 - ductwork separated behind rear cap either at bottom L where it turns upward, or higher up. You might be able to feel the gap by lying on the ground and reaching up along the ductwork. OR, you might have to feel the outside of the cap for cool spots on a hot day while the unit is running. If it is low, you may be able to retape it. If it is higher up, it is likely the rear cap has to be removed to fix it.
2 - #2 compressor not kicking in due to bad start capacitor. You should be able to tell if this is the problem by watching the amp meter when on generator or 30a shore power. When the unit starts, the #1 compressor kicks on, then apx 2 min later the outside fans stop, #2 compressor kicks on, and outside fans startup again. You can listen outside for that sequence, or you can watch the amp meter. With one compressor running you should see apx 18a. With both running you should see apx 23a.
3 - Bad computer board in the electronics compartment -- access like in item 2.
The basement unit is sealed and does not require freon/coolant servicing. Any ac tech should be able to check it out to see that it is operating properly without removing the unit from the motorhome. Just open the access door (it is bolted shut), and the electronics are accessible after you remove a metal access panel. If a compressor is bad, then the unit must be removed to replace it.
When I need service, I go to the RVP website at http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/service/need_repairs.php
and check for a certified service person wherever I am. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
It's also possible to inspect ductwork joints by removing tail light assemblies and looking through holes with flashlight.