Air not dumping from the HWH leveling control panel

[Ray,IN]

Sometimes the HWH system "gets lost" for lack of a better term. If the leveling system procedure is interrupted before completion it does get lost.
To remedy that the entire auto-level procedure must be initiated and allowed to go through the complete procedure without interruption
Once it is complete and shuts off by itself, store jacks. That will reset the system.



It will not harm anything to perform auto-level on a fairly level surface with air springs inflated.
I still recommended starting the drive motor and perform auto-level.

As to the slide room part, a multimeter is required to test for voltage at the slide solenoid switch wire, test solenoid, then cable to other leveling solenoid to main solenoid on top of the pump motor.
The wiring diagram is in your service manual. All 3 solenoid battery power wiring are daisy-chained together

[jefflbi]

Well after a few days of troubleshooting the remote tech service, and I have to give this guy a plug, on Facebook and the web he's RV Diagnostics. He's based in DE. The guys knows his stuff.................

Anyway, as per my last message, I did check all the fuses in box fuse blocks, and all were good. I discovered that my steps are on hinges, held down by a single bolt in the center front of each step. Had I known this at the campground in TN it would have made a world of difference!!! See attached pic....... I had done enough testing with the RV Diagnostics to the point where I has voltage everywhere I needed it and he wanted me to wiggle the control board power connector while a friend was pressing one of the jack buttons. When I did this the air dumped.......... and I was like WTF?? I asked my friend if he pushed the right button and he said yes. Now this made me think of last week when I was putting everything back together in the campground, the one connector was not keyed to going on only one way. I know that sounds impossible, but look I've been working on cars all my life, I'm familiar with connectors and that they should only go on one way, but this connector is reversible.......... and when I had taken everything apart I left all the connectors in the position when I pulled them out so that it would be easy to put them back in......... fast forward back to the present time....... when I heard that air dump, I said to myself, I have to try this, and I pulled the connector, turned it around, plugged it back in and told my friend to push a jack button, and damn if the jacks didn't start working!!!! I stood there in amazement for like 30 seconds, then got up into the coach and pressed one of the slide switches to extend and it started to extend!!!! I was like WTF!!! I could have had this thing fixed a week ago at that campground!! But I guess one of the most amazing things of this thread is that my solder job on the circuit board was successful, at least to the point of getting the jacks to work. The manual air still is not dumping nor do the jack warning lights come on telling me that they are extended, but hey, the jacks work and the slides extend and retract. As far as camping goes, I'm good to go!!! Now what I do plan on doing next is spraying electronic cleaner in all off the connectors. And I will continue to work with RV Diagnostics in getting those lights to work..............

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Morich

I suspect you may be a victim of poorly written or thought out info!
One of the problems when two different groups write info? Any way we know it happens quite often, so we need to do some deeper thinking to sort what might be happening?
The person writing your info on steps is thinking you need the power on, so tells you to turn to ACC. But the person who has more ideas of getting it to work BEST, knows that the best power works things best!
Turning to ACC will likely get you connected to a battery but knowing that hydraulic pumps takes a good amount of power, having the engine running is one way to connect the power from the chassis and alternator to the coach as well. That is one way to give the pump a good, sure, supply of power and let it work the best!

This is a fair amount of guessing an comparing other info we know, so it may not match what some of the info says!
But it may be that you have been getting by fine and now there may be some corrosion or lower battery supply issue sneaking in and it may be kind of borderline on how it works best?

My suggestion as a quick way to spot if it is a battery supply question is to try it with the engine running. We are sure that is not a hazard as we will often do it that way and we have seen no warning NOT to do the jacks when the engine is running.
My thought is that the better supply may make it all work better and then you have a hint that the coach supply alone may be about to give you other trouble?

That's a funky, poor man's way of testing but it seems easy for a quick answer to spot a power problem sneaking in?
It may not tell you anything and Ray is certain to know your coach better but maybe while waiting for him to get back around it would lead to more info?

Yes Richard,
WE too have the HWH 625 Computer Controlled Automatic Leveling System on our '04 Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP and yep, the manual says to have the key in the ACC or ON position. But the manual also states that when using part of the HWH air dump system, the engine MUST BE OFF. If using the chassis supplied dump valve, the engine can be ON or OFF. The primary reason the engine must be off for HWH dump operations is, the ride height sensors can interfere with the operation.
Scott