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Old 02-02-2017, 06:58 PM   #1
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Air Dryer filter change

I want to change the air dryer filter on our rig. Is it a difficult chore? I was at Speedco today for oil change and asked them about the air dryer filter and was told that they didn't service air dryers. So it looks like I'm going to do it myself as long that I don't need a specialized tool.
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:10 PM   #2
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Not sure what kind you have, but for the last 15 years all I have seen are spin-on style. Just be sure to bleed off all the air pressure before you spin the old one off.
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Old 02-02-2017, 09:44 PM   #3
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I want to change the air dryer filter on our rig. Is it a difficult chore? I was at Speedco today for oil change and asked them about the air dryer filter and was told that they didn't service air dryers. So it looks like I'm going to do it myself as long that I don't need a specialized tool.
dnystrom,
Based on your model and year, I'd just about bet the farm that you have the same air dryer as we have on our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT. That unit has TWO FILTERS, not just one. Some advocate that you can rebuild or, service it while it's in place. Well, there's lots of variables that will or, will not allow for that. There's two things that will cause it to be removed for service. One, some of the components are not able to be removed when it's in place. Two, that entire area is seriously dirty with lots of loose debris and contaminates. So, if one of the filters which, is upside down while the unit is mounted, is removed for replacement, its' highly possible to knock loose some of the debris/dust/dirt/mud/grease etc. that's hanging around the area, right down into that cavity where that filter goes.

So, hence, that's a primary reason to remove the entire unit for bench servicing. If you decide to do this project, it's not overly complicated. There's two hoses to be removed. One has rather large connection fittings and is pretty tight, the other is a smaller one that's easy to disconnect. And there's an electrical line that gets un-plugged. Then it's only four nuts and bolts and, the unit is off frame and you're now ready to service it on the bench.

Below are a few pictures of what it looks like while it's apart. Again, it's pretty self explanatory on how it comes apart and what's to be replaced and how. No big deal at all.
Scott

The kit you'll more than likely need is called: DQ 6026

You can get them in many places including Amazon etc. The prices vary a bit but, are hovering around $139 or so. Good luck.















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Old 02-03-2017, 07:08 AM   #4
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I have the haldex DQ6036 dryer. The dryer service kit on eBay runs between $85 and $110, $174 locally. You can buy the complete dryer for $175 then order the 12 volt heater unit to replace the 24 volt truck heater.

I ordered the dryer kit only then discovered my heater unit was bad and purge valve looks like it might be better to replace it also. Would have cost me only a couple of dollars more for the whole new unit then it cost me this way.

The heater unit was $45 from the local Freightliner dealer.
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:55 AM   #5
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Fire UP,
I would also think it would be the same as your rig. I'll get under there and see what I'm up against as far as removal of the unit. I can see now that it has to be done on the bench due to the crud that will get in if you left it on the coach. The info you gave here has been remarkable to me and I thank you for that!
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Old 02-03-2017, 09:03 AM   #6
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I'm posting here so I can track Fireup's photos.
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:09 AM   #7
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Well this thing looks like a monster to me unless I'm not understanding removal. Here is the picture of what I have.
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:54 AM   #8
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Well this thing looks like a monster to me unless I'm not understanding removal. Here is the picture of what I have.
It's not as hard as you think. You see the braided larger diameter hose that comes down to the unit on the left side of the picture? The very first collar on that hose, as it approaches the dryer, is what you'll turn to remove the hose. Then, you see the smaller plastic hose that enters the bottom side? You'll notice a small collar, with about 1/8"-3/32" gap between it and the rest of the fitting.

Well, with all the air depleted out of the system, (and I mean ALL OF IT) that hose is somewhat, easily removed, without tools. You see, that fitting, like probably 30-40 more on your coach, in various sizes and colors, is called a:
PUSH-TO-CONNECT fitting. To disconnect any Push-to-connect fitting, this is how it is done.

1. Grab the hose, close to that collar and push it towards the fitting
2. Now, while holding that pressure on the hose, using your other hand, grab that small collar and push it towards the fitting. It should basically move and close the gap that's there.
3. While holding that collar in the pushed-in position, you can now remove the hose, DONE!
4. You see, that collar acts as a BARB. Air pressure wants to push that hose out. But, the collar is designed in such a way that when the hose is trying to be pushed out, that collar has sort of "teeth" on it's inner diameter which, won't let the hose push its way out. But, with no air pressure, the slightest amount of "inward" (pushing the hose towards the fitting or housing), actually releases the "bite" from the collar. Then, by pushing in on the collar, the "teeth" are allowed to expand and thus, allowing the hose to exit the fitting. Cool huh?

Any push-to-release or, push-to-connect hose/fitting on your coach can be removed using that method. Once both hoses are removed, the electrical connection is removed by prying the little BARB away from its catch. Once there's no capture on the catch, the electrical fitting is pulled apart. Done.

Now, just remove the four nuts and bolts that retain the unit to the frame. Hope this helps some.
Scott
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Old 02-03-2017, 11:30 AM   #9
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There's another 1/4 inch plastic line also in the front/bottom that is there also. I assume it's for the air to the car. So this is the same as yours I also assume. I'm going to get the kit and do it myself. It's gotta weigh 50 lbs or close to it? I think that 1/4 inch line will pull out like you described as push and release. I was just shocked as to the size of the housing. I'm going to get the pressure washer under there and clean it up a bit before removal so I don't get too dirty.
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:43 PM   #10
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There's another 1/4 inch plastic line also in the front/bottom that is there also. I assume it's for the air to the car. So this is the same as yours I also assume. I'm going to get the kit and do it myself. It's gotta weigh 50 lbs or close to it? I think that 1/4 inch line will pull out like you described as push and release. I was just shocked as to the size of the housing. I'm going to get the pressure washer under there and clean it up a bit before removal so I don't get too dirty.
Now that you mention it, I think I do remember a small, 1/4" line that needs to be disconnected too. But, it DOES NOT go to any car. If I recall, it goes to the air governor. The governor is the senior control unit of the whole system. But, yep, I'm pretty dead sure the disconnect system will be the same as the 1/2" plastic line.
As for the weight, no Sir, it's not anywhere near 50 lbs. I didn't weigh it but, I'd venture to say it's way closer to around 20-25 lbs.
Scott
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:34 PM   #11
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OK! I just ASS u med. I got the kit ordered and will let you know how all this turns out when I get it. 122.55 Fleabay.... I'll have to look where the air got plumed to the back of the coach. Will keep you posted to the progress. Thanks again for the information!
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Old 02-03-2017, 11:43 PM   #12
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OK! I just ASS u med. I got the kit ordered and will let you know how all this turns out when I get it. 122.55 Fleabay.... I'll have to look where the air got plumed to the back of the coach. Will keep you posted to the progress. Thanks again for the information!
ASS u med

What a crackup. We used to say the same thing on the FD. Been a while since I was reminded of that. Funny! Anyway, if you have an air line that's plumbed to the back of the coach, and it's to be used for a braking system on a toad, that line is guarantied to be tied into the brake application line. It will either be placed in a "T" on one of the brake can lines or, it's possible that it's place in a "T" coming from the ABS valve, almost directly above the differential. At least that's where my M & G Braking system application line that I installed is placed.

If that line at the rear of your coach is for air use, such as filling tires etc. who knows where it's plumbed into.
Scott
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Old 02-04-2017, 12:01 AM   #13
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Just MHO, but how do you get to drive a vehicle without an air brake licence? All this stuff is taught to you during the course. It's like playing Russian roulette with your braking system when you work on these things. Pop one of those lines off because they weren't put back on properly, and you will have the ride of your life!! Be careful is what I'm saying.
D Nystrom- maybe you should take it to a shop.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:30 AM   #14
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Unplanned , Where is your Sense of Adventure? Looks so simple now. I was intimidated by the size. I drove and worked (in the early days) Fire Engines for 29 years without any problems with brakes. No air....No go.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:42 AM   #15
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Yes! It's been 10 years now for me. I'll keep you posted when it's done.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:53 AM   #16
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Unplanned , Where is your Sense of Adventure? Looks so simple now. I was intimidated by the size. I drove and worked (in the early days) Fire Engines for 29 years without any problems with brakes. No air....No go.
Exactly. If one of those lines pop off they will eventually get down to low enough air pressure that the maxi brakes will apply and then they'll go nowhere. Sure the low air warning will or should come on before the maxi button pops, but where will they be able to pull over? Hope it's not on a busy freeway during rush hour. I realize these are worst case scenarios ,but just saying.
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Old 02-04-2017, 11:53 AM   #17
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Just MHO, but how do you get to drive a vehicle without an air brake licence? All this stuff is taught to you during the course. It's like playing Russian roulette with your braking system when you work on these things. Pop one of those lines off because they weren't put back on properly, and you will have the ride of your life!! Be careful is what I'm saying.
D Nystrom- maybe you should take it to a shop.
Unplanned,
If I'm not mistaken, the rules for owning/driving etc. of an air brake equipped motor home in CANADA are a bit different than owning/driving/working on etc. in the U.S. Obviously, here in the U.S., there are no rules that state we motor home operators HAVE to be air brake trained and licensed in order work on them. While air brakes and, all related air system components are on the critical side of safety, there are folks that have decades of DYI experience in all phases of automotive/truck/motorcycle/motor home/boat/space ship/and more work behind them, without formal air training. Don't get me wrong here. I'm not advocating that anyone who's changed a spark plug in a lawn mower, get out and overhaul the entire air brake system on there coach, not at all.

But, if you've got a few decades of automotive work behind you, tackling something like that air dryer service, is about as straight forward as it gets. And, obviously, even with lots and lots of experience, if one takes a look at a potential project and has second thoughts, then they have to step back and say, "maybe I should get a second opinion on whether or not I should do this"?
Scott

Quote:
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Unplanned , Where is your Sense of Adventure? Looks so simple now. I was intimidated by the size. I drove and worked (in the early days) Fire Engines for 29 years without any problems with brakes. No air....No go.
dnystrom,
Apparently we have a bit in common. Retired San Diego Fireman after 29.5 years. Also drove, worked on, welded on, outfitted, involved in purchasing specs, taught and more of fire engines. Great career. However, from the last day, I've never looked (or been back). And yes, your statement of "no air, no brake, NO GO!. If I had to guess, I'd say that I've been on as many as say, oh, about 100 or more runs that we had to tell dispatch, "San Diego, delayed response due to LOW AIR!"
Scott
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Old 02-04-2017, 11:58 AM   #18
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dnystrom, did you check with Freightliner for the correct kit before you ordered your filter? All you have to do is give them your VIN number and they will tell you which filter they used.

I think, but not positive, the compressed air dryer on my 06 Freightliner/Cat is different from the one Fire Up showed, and from your picture I think yours is the same as mine. Again, I'm not positive since the pictures just don't show the filter name. They changed from the Haldex PUR Air Plus to the PURest around the times all of our coaches were built.

Mine is a Haldex PURest filter. Once you remove it from the frame it is relatively easy to rebuild. 4 bolts and the tank comes off for easy rebuild. If yours is the same as mine, I have several pictures showing the rebuild if you need them.
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Old 02-04-2017, 01:25 PM   #19
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Bigd9,
I called them yesterday and left a msg so they would call back but they never did yet. I had better service in the past from them.....
I ordered the DQ6026 General Service kit for it. I looks like it should be the right one. I don't know how many variances there may be for that particular style air dryer.

Fire Up,

We didn't have low air problems. Our mechanic was very good with the rig's. We did have a air leak once upon a time. I remember him under the engine with a microphone he borrowed from the phone company and it amplified the slightest sound of leaking air. The Tender we had "Big Mack Attack" had a fitting on the outside of the cab that we could plug a air hose from the big station compressor we had the get the air to it. Wasn't critical as it was just for supply. I was the 5th to get hired and when I left we were at 143.
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Old 02-04-2017, 01:56 PM   #20
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According to my information Freightliner Custom Chassis used TWO types of air dryer’s on its Rear Engine Diesel Chassis (prior to 10/2009).

The first design that was used is called the Midland Pure Air Plus. This air dryer was used on chassis built prior to 11/28/03 and has to be serviced every 18 months. (This is the one FIRE UP has on his coach.) This air dryer is serviced using the Haldex Midland DQ6026 General Service Kit.

The second design is called a PURest Air Dryer by Haldex, this air dryer was put on chassis built on or after 11/28/03 and has a scheduled change interval of 36 months. (this is the one I have on my 2005 coach.) This air dryer is serviced using the Haldex DQ6050 Dessicant Cartridge Kit.

Here's a picture of the Midland Pure Air Plus (on the left) and the PURest Air Dryer by Haldex (on the right):



IMPORTANT NOTE: Since the above info came from a document dated 10/2009, it can't be assumed to be valid for any chassis produced after that date.
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