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Old 02-11-2006, 07:02 AM   #1
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My first project involved the shower. Winnebago did a really neat thing and molded a small recess on each end of the shower surround. You can insert a metal rod (furnished) in the recesses when you have wet things that you want to let dry. This is a really neat idea that doesn't cost much, but is very useful on occasion. The downside is that the holder for the handheld shower is mounted slightly off center so the rod can be easily be inserted and the screws only go into a relatively thin panel behind the surround.
Although it worked well for over two years, the fact that the holder wiggled a little bothered me.

I found that if the OnePlace panel in the hall is removed, you can see the shower surround where the holder is mounted and the screws where they come through the surround and the panel.
I removed the screws and mounted a small block of wood with contact cement to the panel and to the 1/2 inch wood crosspieces next to where the holder screws came though. I then was able to screw the holder screws into a solid piece of wood. No more wiggle - the holder is solid now.

Second: When the furnace is running, a lot of heat comes through the floor vent in the bathroom. That's a good thing and the vent can be adjusted so you can reduce the heat if you wish. Most of the time we want the full amount of heat - like when we are taking a shower.

But we noticed that the heat in the bathroom was affecting the thermostat mounted on the OnePlace panel in the hall just outside the bathroom. This caused the thermostat to shut the heat down prematurely. (There is no insulation in the inside walls).
While I was working on project number one above, I put some fiberglass insulation behind the panel and blocked the heat from reaching the thermostat. It now works properly.

My last project was inspired by a late night (3 AM) excursion outside to run an extension cord from the passenger side exterior outlet, under the motor home to the service bay, so I could plug in a small ceramic heater to provide heat in the service bay.
My service bay freeze alarm had gone off - the outside temp was down to about 14 degrees F and the basement heat was not doing a good enough job.
The low temp for the night was 2'F. This happened in Beaver Utah on our way down to Quartzite.
My goal is to never be where it's that cold, but family health problems can mess up the best laid plans....

To avoid future late night trips outside, I installed a covered GFI outlet in the service bay so I can easily plug in a small heater.
I found one made by Westinghouse that has a feature called "Frost Protection". When the fan and heat settings are on minimum, the heater will only run when the temp drops below a preset limit and it is supposed to keep the bay above 41 degrees.
I have been in temps down to about 16 degrees since and the sucker kept the bay at 46'F.

I leave it in place and plug it in before bedtime if there is any chance the temp will fall below freezing.

No rocket science involved, but I still have a small feeling of satisfaction because those things that aggravated me are fixed.
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Old 02-11-2006, 07:02 AM   #2
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My first project involved the shower. Winnebago did a really neat thing and molded a small recess on each end of the shower surround. You can insert a metal rod (furnished) in the recesses when you have wet things that you want to let dry. This is a really neat idea that doesn't cost much, but is very useful on occasion. The downside is that the holder for the handheld shower is mounted slightly off center so the rod can be easily be inserted and the screws only go into a relatively thin panel behind the surround.
Although it worked well for over two years, the fact that the holder wiggled a little bothered me.

I found that if the OnePlace panel in the hall is removed, you can see the shower surround where the holder is mounted and the screws where they come through the surround and the panel.
I removed the screws and mounted a small block of wood with contact cement to the panel and to the 1/2 inch wood crosspieces next to where the holder screws came though. I then was able to screw the holder screws into a solid piece of wood. No more wiggle - the holder is solid now.

Second: When the furnace is running, a lot of heat comes through the floor vent in the bathroom. That's a good thing and the vent can be adjusted so you can reduce the heat if you wish. Most of the time we want the full amount of heat - like when we are taking a shower.

But we noticed that the heat in the bathroom was affecting the thermostat mounted on the OnePlace panel in the hall just outside the bathroom. This caused the thermostat to shut the heat down prematurely. (There is no insulation in the inside walls).
While I was working on project number one above, I put some fiberglass insulation behind the panel and blocked the heat from reaching the thermostat. It now works properly.

My last project was inspired by a late night (3 AM) excursion outside to run an extension cord from the passenger side exterior outlet, under the motor home to the service bay, so I could plug in a small ceramic heater to provide heat in the service bay.
My service bay freeze alarm had gone off - the outside temp was down to about 14 degrees F and the basement heat was not doing a good enough job.
The low temp for the night was 2'F. This happened in Beaver Utah on our way down to Quartzite.
My goal is to never be where it's that cold, but family health problems can mess up the best laid plans....

To avoid future late night trips outside, I installed a covered GFI outlet in the service bay so I can easily plug in a small heater.
I found one made by Westinghouse that has a feature called "Frost Protection". When the fan and heat settings are on minimum, the heater will only run when the temp drops below a preset limit and it is supposed to keep the bay above 41 degrees.
I have been in temps down to about 16 degrees since and the sucker kept the bay at 46'F.

I leave it in place and plug it in before bedtime if there is any chance the temp will fall below freezing.

No rocket science involved, but I still have a small feeling of satisfaction because those things that aggravated me are fixed.
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Old 02-11-2006, 11:54 AM   #3
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Clay,

Can you give the name and model number of the heater?

Thanks
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:44 PM   #4
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Clay L:
...To avoid future late night trips outside, I installed a covered GFI outlet in the service bay so I can easily plug in a small heater...I leave it in place and plug it in before bedtime if there is any chance the temp will fall below freezing... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Of course you could have made the outlet "switched" and then you could leave the heater plugged in and turned on. Whenever you needed the heater on, you would have just turned the switch on (the one you had conveniently mounted inside the RV).
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Old 02-11-2006, 02:22 PM   #5
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Good tips Clay I like that one about the outlet in water bay, than Lorna comes up with the switch which I will install on cabinet wall in bathroom won't have to go outside in morning to shut off heater. "007"
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Old 02-11-2006, 02:54 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Of course you could have made the outlet "switched" and then you could leave the heater plugged in and turned on. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I thought of that, but decided to leave it unplugged and the GFI cover down because of water splashing around when I hook up at night when we stop.
It's a good idea though and I am probably being too cautious.
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:02 PM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Outbumn Can you give the name and model number of the heater? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yes I can. It's a Westinghouse WST6003 Flat Fan Heater.
I think I paid about $28 for it.
The "Frost Watch" feature turns the heat on at temps below 41'F and holds that temp according to the mnual. In actual use however the temp varies from about 44 degrees to around 55 degrees depending on the outside temp.
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Old 02-11-2006, 05:19 PM   #8
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Clay,

Where did you buy the heater? I did a google search but couldn't find anything.
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Old 02-11-2006, 06:38 PM   #9
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Bob,I googled several different ways too and could only find a couple Black and Deckers when I simply googled "fan heater with frost watch"....

I'd be anxious to hear where he got it....
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Old 02-12-2006, 03:57 AM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Where did you buy the heater? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I got it at Target a couple of months ago.
I would think it should still be available.
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Old 02-12-2006, 06:46 AM   #11
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Hey guys, West Marine has a similar heater for boats. Works the same way and is very compact about $40.00
I wonder on my coach if I couldn't plug it into the outlet for the engine block heater? Couldn't run both at same time?
Already have a switch inside for the engine block heater, but I have never used it. Altho I have never camped in that cold of weather who knows...Good Miles
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Old 02-12-2006, 06:49 AM   #12
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Rather than an electric heater I suggest a 50 or 100w light bulb. Place a wireless remote thermometer in the compartment and you can monitor the temp. You'll be surprised how warm a light bulb keeps the compartment.

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Old 02-12-2006, 10:34 AM   #13
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Just as an FYI, there's a slick little device called ThermoCube being sold in the SmartHome catalog, which will turn on any devide plugged into either of it's receptacles, when the temp drops below it's preset temperature. They come in 3 ranges: 20 degrees on/30 off, 35 deg on/45 off, and 78 on/70 off. They are rated at 1800 watts, 15 amps, 120vac.

With one of these, you could use any cube heater, light bulb, etc. that you want, and it could also light up a remote lamp up in the coach, as a visual indicator, if plugged into it's second receptacle.
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Old 02-12-2006, 04:08 PM   #14
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You can buy these ThermoCubes at Lowes or Home Depot.

Tom
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Old 02-13-2006, 02:06 PM   #15
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Just home from the Target here in Virginia Beach and the Westinghouse heaters were on the "clearance" rack...

I picked up two Model# WST-6006 heaters,normally $34.99 for $24.48 each.
1500W output with the thermostat and frost guard.
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Old 02-14-2006, 12:13 PM   #16
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Clay,

Good project. Where did you find the electrical feed for the installation of your GFI outlet?

I feel like I am a self-proclaimed expert in heating the water compartment. This came after I had my water pump frozen in 4 degree weather while camped in Amarillo last year.

First, I placed a small ceramic heater in the water compartment and plugged it into the engine heater receptacle in the power compartment. It worked well since I could turn that receptacle on from inside the coach.

I soon found this was too much heat since the thermostat on the ceramic heater came on at 40 degrees and heated to 80 degrees before shutting off. (I have a remote temperature sensor installed next to my water pump)

Next, I pulled the heater and placed a 60 watt light bulb in the water compartment with a thermostatically controlled receptacle (on at 35 degrees, off at 45 degrees). This has worked well keeping a 14 degree differential in the water compartment vs. outside temps.

However, I don't beleive the light bulb will be sufficient if the outside temperature drops much below 20 degrees. I recently experienced 22 degrees outside and the water compartment was 36 degrees.

My perfect solution would be a GFI receptacle inside the water compartment and a very small ceramic heater with a digital thermostat. Still looking for the small heater.
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Old 02-18-2006, 04:18 AM   #17
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Posted by LK23<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Where did you find the electrical feed for the installation of your GFI outlet? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I opened the junction box where the generator leads and the power cord are connected and added a sheathed wire there. There was a knock-out in the side of the box that I removed to add the new wire.
I don't have an automatic transfer switch on my rig. If you have one you may have a different set-up. There will still be a place to get the AC though.
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