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Old 06-09-2024, 11:39 PM   #1
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Norcold 1201 not turning on 2006 Adventurer

I have a Winnebago Adventurer (2006) with a Norcold 1201 four door propane/ac refrigerator. At home it was plugged into shore power and it was nice and cold. After I disconnected to shore power we got on the road for a 1 hour trip. I didnít bother to run it on propane for the short drive , but when we got to our destination the monitor on the fridge was dark and would not turn on. I couldnít even try propane. There is 12 volts coming out of the breaker but nothing on the monitor of the fridge. Can someone give me an idea if I should just buy a new circuit board on the front? Or an idea where I should lookÖ
Thank you
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Old 06-10-2024, 02:08 AM   #2
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A couple things come to mind. First off do all of the 120 outlets work on your unit. Reason for that is maybe somewhere along the line you tripped one of the Gfci outlets. Second on the back of the fridge is a black plastic box with fuses in it, you may want to check that out.
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Old 06-10-2024, 07:54 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by be happy View Post
A couple things come to mind. First off do all of the 120 outlets work on your unit. Reason for that is maybe somewhere along the line you tripped one of the Gfci outlets. Second on the back of the fridge is a black plastic box with fuses in it, you may want to check that out.
I did not check the outlets for AC power. I ran the generator and used a couple a worked fine. It is light out now so I will get started with the black box and rest of the 120v outlets. Will give an update asap.
Thank you
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Old 06-10-2024, 08:30 AM   #4
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I am unclear on how a 120v GFCI could have any effect on a purely 12v function like powering the fridge control panel, but OK???

The most likely easy candidate is not turning on the House battery disconnect. Or a problem with the disconnect solenoid or low voltage house batteries. That disconnect solenoid requires voltage to turn on.

I assume there is a 12v fuse for the fridge but that’s less likely to happen for no reason.
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Old 06-10-2024, 09:02 AM   #5
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If you've managed to actually see 12Volt leaving the breaker, the next logical thought might be to ask if it gets to the frig? Maybe the connection is corroded?
Being 12volt the frig controls will not be GFCI!

Two small wires for that section of the controls, ET is 12volt power and EU is ground. They both have to be good for the controls to work!
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List to decode the wire ID:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

No buying a new board is the last step after being sure the inputs are getting to the board.
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Old 06-10-2024, 04:46 PM   #6
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There' a 12VDC and a 120VAC fuse on the PC board. For your edification: Norcold 121X service manual
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Old 06-10-2024, 06:45 PM   #7
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Thanks for all your advise. So far I am in a campground that prohibits generator so I canít use it. I used it yesterday and got scolded for it. But DC power is all good throughout the rig. I did find that I do have power going to the circuit board in the back of the refer. I also found out there was a recall that required a Norcold tech to install a device that had a red light. Apparently this light would turn on if there was a problem with the refrigeration unit (Iím sure Iíve got this all wrong), but somebody has been monkeying around back there. There were a couple wire connectors that I replaced because they were pretty corroded so I thought I had it, but no such luck. But since dc 12 volts (actually 13.5v) went into the board I think I need to test the board. I found a schematic on how to do it but there were discrepancies so I think it was for a different model. Mine is 1201LRIM. I kept running out of battery on my phone because of my searches and watching U tube videos. One question I have if the main board is bad, would it shut down the board on the front where you control temp and change from AC to propane?
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Old 06-10-2024, 06:49 PM   #8
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Forgot to mention, the two fuses on the board were good
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Old 06-10-2024, 07:47 PM   #9
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You can temporarily remove the 2 wires exiting the black box recall "fix". All it does is cut 12VDC power to the fridge when the boiler temperature exceeds 700įF. It can be shorted out by getting wet.
The manual reset of the black box is to hold a strong magnet on top of the right corner of the box until you hear the click that indicates it has reset, and the red light turns off.
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Old 06-11-2024, 11:48 AM   #10
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Would anyone know what the voltage should be for the optical control board on the front of the refrigerator? The troubleshooting guide just states yes/no. I do have 5.7volts not the expected 12
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Old 06-13-2024, 01:08 PM   #11
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The irv2.com appliance expert is Old Biscuit, I'm sure he knows the front board voltage and everything else.
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Old 06-13-2024, 03:47 PM   #12
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Thank you all for all your tips on my fridge. All evidence seemed to point to the main board so I ordered one from Amazon which cost 240.00 and was delivered in 24 hours. I installed it and it appears to be cooling on AC as the chimney started heating up. I canít seem to get it to run on propane yet. Iíll give it a couple hours and see if it really gets cold.
Happy camping
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