Weber grill off Micro Minnie 2108FBS propane tap?

[Wmlunt]

Has anyone run a grill with the low pressure propane tap on the rear of the trailer?
I converted my Weber Q1000 to remove the regulator, and testing with a propane tank with regulator at the tank and 6foot 3/8” diameter hose.
Working I guess, but seems lower lazy flame. Might have to change orifice size.
Any advise?
Thx! Bill

[IOS 3]

I run my converted Weber off the camper (2022 Minnie 2529RG) and it works fine. I have not noticed any performance drop on the grill.

[Morich]

With good eyes, it may be worth a look at the hole in the orifice? Something like a spider may have moved in? Any way to test that it works right on other supplies?
No obvious kinks in the line to that point?

[Scotty B]

I converted ours to run off the rig's propane with no apparent change in performance. The temperature gauge on the grill seems pretty accurate and is a good barometer.

I ended up converting to using a 20# tank as I liked being able to position the grill where I wanted on the campsite vs. being tethered to the rig.

[Morich]

Originally Posted by Scotty B

I converted ours to run off the rig's propane with no apparent change in performance. The temperature gauge on the grill seems pretty accurate and is a good barometer.

I ended up converting to using a 20# tank as I liked being able to position the grill where I wanted on the campsite vs. being tethered to the rig.

This is something we found also. The connection was going to take so much line and not let us move the grill to all the different places we found we needed at different campsites, so we went to a sperate tank.
But we also did not want the bulk of the twenty pound for use on a grill which was only used occasionally, so we moved to a much easier smaller tank.
Much to the time we found the picnic tables were far more convenient that getting out something to place the grill on near the RV propane connection.

[BobC]

I agree 100% with Scotty and Morich.

I'm really not sure why RV manufacturers don't provide a high pressure connection since virtually everything one would want to hook up to it will have it's own built-in regulator. It wouldn't be quick-connect since they're low pressure only.

A 5# or 10# tank makes a lot more sense and is much more convenient. Just be careful to not have it refilled on its own since it's probably going to be below the minimum sales amount of most refill outlets.

If we're going to be camping away from refill stations for a while, I'll take one of my 20lb tanks from my home BBQ. I added a propane distribution post so I can hook up other appliances like a stove, lantern, heater, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Stansport-Out...48&sr=8-2&th=1

If you really want to hook up to your rig's tank, you can install an Extend-A-Stay adapter to your RV's tank and attach to it. This way you can leave the regulators on all your appliances:

https://www.google.com/search?q=exte...=gws-wiz-video

[Bcborn]

Added a high pressure takeoff for the same reason.

Check out my albums

[Scotty B]

I forgot something...I originally tried a shortcut by not changing out the LP connector on the grill. I just bought a hose that connected to the 20lb tank, but still used the 1lb connection and regulator on the grill.
The grill would not heat up that way, but worked fine once I took off the regulator and 1lb connector

[Morich]

Yes, basic idea on propane connections. Only one reg to reduce pressure once from high tank to low. Reduced twice it is likely to be too low!

Isn't it fun to muddle the mind every day? I just try to keep straight where I eat and sleep!

[Scotty B]

Just to clarify, there was only one regulator on the situation I describe above, the one that came with the grill.
Here is the current one, and a bit of a view. You can replace the hose I use with a quick connect to attach it to your rig.
Good luck!

[BobC]

I don't think two regulators were involved in Wmunt's test. He clearly states that he removed the regulator from the grill and tested it with a regulator at a propane tank (presumably not the trailer's tank). The result was a low flame.

Assuming the test tank wasn't very low on propane, the only reason I can see that this wouldn't work is if the test regulator's design pressure was lower than that of the regulator that came with the grill (unlikely) or if, as Morich surmised, there was an obstruction or some other defect.

Hopefully he'll check back in with us so we don't go around in circles.

[Wmlunt]

So the grill does work, maybe I did not wait long enough the first time. There are no obstructions, clear screening in air mix tube and orifice is fine. Grill is kept in pristine shape.
I saw that the flames were way more yellow than before, half yellow half blue. This is likely due to lower velocity of the gas, just need to keep an eye on the burner tubes to insure they don’t run too hot.
I do have experience in gas combustion design for commercial cooking ovens. In fact one 225,000 btu oven had a gas orifice of 0.625” !
Bill

[Fred 2106DS]

I run my Q1200 off the camper without any performance issues. I removed the Weber regulator and replaced it with a quick connect so I can either use the camper low pressure port or a short LP hose connected to the removed Weber regulator which I connect to Flame King 1 lb. refillable propane cylinders.

I don't believe anyone else mentioned it, but are you able to check the line pressure to see if you have a minimum of 11" WC pressure? Line pressure may be your issue.

I had to replace my LP regulator a couple years ago.

I suspected low gas pressure and checked it with a slack tube manometer. Sure enough, it was only producing about 9" WC pressure. I tried increasing the pressure using the adjustment screw on the regulator but the maximum pressure I able get was 10" WC, so replacement was necessary.

Based on the specs for my gas appliances, ideally, I want to see 11" WC line pressure with either my gas furnace or gas water heater operating as long as the idle line pressure doesn't exceed 13" WC.

[Wmlunt]

Hey Fred, good point that maybe it is worth checking the gas pressure. I assumed WBGO would have set the regulator correctly, but setting up a slack tube manometer is easy enuf, hoped I would not have to go that far with a brand new trailer…
Bill

[Morich]

But if the stove, furnace, and water heater seem okay, that might tend to say the reg setting was correct? So why the grill is a problem?

I just had a weird thing that was new to me! Here at the house, my kitchen stove suddenly seemed to be yellow at times and good blue flame at others!
I finally traced it down to when my humidifier was running in the bedroom!

Not likely the current user is running one outside but I'm still looking for a good idea of why my problem was anything to do with humidity when it doesn't show when we get the morning high moisture coming in off the Gulf??

[Wmlunt]

Barometric pressure will change the ‘apparent pressure’ of your gas, as will temperature. The humidity should not affect your burn, unless it is burning natural gas at the same time. Yellow flames are usually a mixture issue. I would check for something spilled on the stove, or some other air leak in the gas lines. Common to have a leak in threads, etc. pull air in to the gas line due to velocity of the gas passing over the leak, pulling in air. (Most may think the higher pressure pipe would only leak out…)
Bill