Molding install 2008 Journey 39z

ACDNate · 06-08-2018, 04:55 PM

I've got a small section of my headliner that has come loose in the bedroom of my 2008 Journey 39z. The plan to repair it is to use the 3m adhesive and then place some crown or cove molding at the ceiling and wall joint. Seems simple enough right?

I got to looking and thinking about it, where/how should I attach the trim? I was thinking in terms of residential trim, ie trim nails. That obviously won't work.

How should I go about attaching the trim?

jerichorick · 06-08-2018, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACDNate

I've got a small section of my headliner that has come loose in the bedroom of my 2008 Journey 39z. The plan to repair it is to use the 3m adhesive and then place some crown or cove molding at the ceiling and wall joint. Seems simple enough right?

I got to looking and thinking about it, where/how should I attach the trim? I was thinking in terms of residential trim, ie trim nails. That obviously won't work.

How should I go about attaching the trim?

Late answer. Not been on the forum much lately.

Use a nailer molding such as this style (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Woodgrai...1831/203369743). Screw it to the wall. If you are wanting a small crown molding you can nail it to the above base. This is just an idea to get you thinking. Be creative!

Oldchinahand · 06-08-2018, 09:49 PM

ACDNate, took this pic this afternoon to illustrate a question that I will pose in a different, dedicated post. But it works for your situation. Don't know why it uploaded sideways. Operator error? To paraphrase jerichorick, something to start the creative juices.

We had a couple of places where the wall paper curled a little right at the ceiling. Went to Lowes and bought molding made of plastic foam covered with woodgrain laminate. (I know, but half your cabinetry is woodgrain laminate.) The profile I used was called "batten". 1 1/4" W x 1/4" thick.

I used no adhesive, but I did use a pin nailer (air). In that wall to ceiling juncture it seemed that the nails were hitting metal. So you have to drive the nails in at an angle. That way the nail goes through the molding, through the plywood wall, and bends to lock tight. I used 5/8" 18gauge nails. I used an air nailer because I have one. In some tight corners I used a manual stapler/nailer.

We did the entire rig. It came out so good, and has weathered nearly 2 years of travels, so we bought 2" shoe molding (plastic foam again) and installed all around the floor. Used 1" 18 gauge nails this time, again driven in on an angle. Again looks great. Details just add richness.

Time consuming but easy in execution. Do some in this campground, some in that, first thing you know it's done. You will need a pencil, tape measure, hacksaw, and a nailer -- that's it!

Fair Winds and Following Seas

ACDNate · 06-09-2018, 07:11 AM

So if i'm understanding correctly, the wall panels have some sort of wood backing beyond the 1/8" or 1/4" wallpapered ply?

jerichorick · 06-09-2018, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACDNate

So if i'm understanding correctly, the wall panels have some sort of wood backing beyond the 1/8" or 1/4" wallpapered ply?

Yup. Plane old Luan paneling with vinyl wall covering glued on. At the top of the wall you should hit the mounting frame for the wall to ceiling.

Nice fix Oldchinahand. I need to do the same thing but have not taken the time to mix a stain to match the coach or buy the molding. Because these things shake and twist so much, as seen by the wrinkles in the wall covering near edges, I hope I can hit something solid for mounting. Then I can countersink screws and use decorative wood plugs to fill the countersink. Another project for another day.

SCVJeff · 06-18-2018, 10:53 PM

I havent done any seam repair but done a bit of corner molding mostly because it looks spiffy. I use carefully selected grain to match the coach, stain ahd hit with Varathane Satin.

I install it with a standard pneumatic brad nailer, and fill the holes.. done and looks factory

jerichorick · 06-20-2018, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCVJeff

I havent done any seam repair but done a bit of corner molding mostly because it looks spiffy. I use carefully selected grain to match the coach, stain ahd hit with Varathane Satin.

I install it with a standard pneumatic brad nailer, and fill the holes.. done and looks factory

On this '11, the crown molding is very thin at the nailler edge to the bullnose strip. Cracks and splits with finish nailler. The long runs break loose over time and many miles on the road with multiple setups and stows. I think a special caulking is available to assist on that edge.

I may have to change out all of the molding to get the correct match all around. Getting the stain match is my problem now. I'm not as clever as many of you craftier folks out there.

LarryW · 06-20-2018, 03:11 PM

Some of these new glues, jeri, are fantastic.

rockymax · 06-23-2018, 06:59 PM

If your headliner is sagging in a spot, in all probability it is only the beginning. In all likelyhood you will begin to see a progression of bubbles in the headliner. It is a function of the glue Winnebago used in older coaches. The foam backing is coming away from the vinyl and the glue will continue to fail. My '08 Adventurer 38t had a small sag and then another and then another. I took the MH to several repair facilities and was told the same thing, you must replace the headliner it cannot be repaired. My headliner replacement was finally completed today. It is an expensive repair, over $5000 but one that I felt was necessary. I hope you do not encounter a similar situation as I and many others have.