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Old 12-07-2013, 01:55 PM   #1
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Front Gen Access Hinge Seperation

I have the 2004 Journey 39K. In the picture the arrow is pointing to the Generator access door. I had the left hinge separate from the body. It appears that it is held on by some sort of mastic or glue. There are no screws or bolts holding it on. I have noticed the tell tale droop on one side of the door on another Journey.

Question I have is if anyone else has had the issue and if so what was the fix and how much did it cost?
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:12 PM   #2
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I had mine come lose so I drilled a couple of holes in the metal and used stainless bolts & nuts to hold the brackets. I believe doorguy used J-B Weld on his. seems some of the adhesive they used was not properly mixed or not enough used.
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:38 PM   #3
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Do you have any pictures on your repair?

Is there a problem with the fiberglass failing or cracking at the points where you attached the bolts?
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2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:56 PM   #4
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Winnebago uses a green epoxy goop from 3M called Scotch Weld. You will find it in their online catalogue p 181.

http://www.lichtsinn.com/PDFs/Winnebago_Catalog.pdf
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:16 PM   #5
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phinneyj, Like you and many others, I have had the front access panel separate from the hinge bracket assembly. Winnebago probably used a good bonding adhesive, but they failed to sand the powder coated metal portion of the bracket where it is bonded to the fiberglass panel. If you will notice on the inside of the panel, the bonding adhesive is still sticking great to the fiberglass but just not to the metal.

When mine came loose, I too was looking for an easy fix so I just drilled four holes in through the panel into the metal frame on the inside and secured it with 3/16 inch aluminum 1/2 inch long pop rivets. I then touched them up with the touch up paint that came with my coach when I bought it. ( See the pictures below ). They have been in there for about 4 years now without any problems.

Now for the rear engine/radiator access panel. It came loose on the way home from San Diego this summer and when I arrived at my house was just barely hanging on. I removed it and the hinge bracket completely and decided to use JB Weld in the places where it was originally bonded. I gently pried the metal bracket loose from the fiberglass panel and sanded down all of the bonding areas of the metal to "bare metal". I then sanded and cleaned with lacquer thinner all the bonded areas on the fiberglass. I mixed the JB Weld and applied it to all the areas where it had bonding adhesive before and then C clamped everything in place to sit overnight.

It appears to me that the JB Weld method is the way to go as it feels very strong and secure. But, if you want an easy fix and aren't really critical about the way it looks, the pop rivet or even stainless steel bolts will work just fine.








Good Luck, Sammie
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:52 PM   #6
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Mine didn't separate from the cover itself (yet), but the hinge separated from the cap on the inside. I, too, used pop rivets and JB Weld on the inner lip of the opening to the mounting bracket. It doesn't show unless the cover is open. If I have the problem FIREUP did, I will probably go that route. My repair was in 2010 and holding strong. I've used JB Weld on the headlight brackets and also the rear radiator cover and it works great so far. The problem with JB Weld, is that it is will droop and drip until it sets up, so be VERY careful you don't have anything in its way when it drips; it will be impossible to get off. When I did mine, it was a hot day, the sun facing the front and I got some on my shirt and rubbed against the front cap and didn't notice it till the next day. Had to have the front cap repainted........
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doorguy View Post
Mine didn't separate from the cover itself (yet), but the hinge separated from the cap on the inside........
That is what mine did only on the drivers side. I liked the Rivet idea so much that I just ordered the rivet gun and asst. rivets. JB Weld will go in my tool kit also.

Thanks,
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:58 AM   #8
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Stainless Steel button head screws, washers, and nuts on both the front cover and the rear cap and door. Peace of mind is great.
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Old 12-08-2013, 11:07 AM   #9
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X2 on the stainless steel button head bolts. I used some on my rear panel and they look like they almost belong there. Here is a good site to get some odd sizes that the big box stores don't carry.
Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:29 PM   #10
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Follow up. I ordered the Stanley Swivel Head Rivet gun. Two quick holes, two stainless steel rivets later the door works as advertised. Now to set two rivets on the other side. Don't want the front wheel weight to be out of balance. :grin:
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2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
2013 Honda Fit with Roadmaster Baseplate, BrakeMaster and All Terrain Falcon Tow Bar.
GS#819681685 FMCA#F437136 SKP#112720
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:05 AM   #11
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For an incredibly strong bond I use 3M 5200. Do not use the quick cure version as it does not get as strong. Caveat is it takes 7 days to cure under ideal conditions, longer if cold or humid. However, once cured, it will hold!
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:21 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by gruelens View Post
For an incredibly strong bond I use 3M 5200. Do not use the quick cure version as it does not get as strong. Caveat is it takes 7 days to cure under ideal conditions, longer if cold or humid. However, once cured, it will hold!
Thanks, I used the rivet idea. The process of prepping the surfaces and using an epoxy or other chemical bound just did not appeal to me. The rivets are simple, fast and effective without having to do all the prep work to get a good metal to fiberglass bound.
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Jeff/Diane, Retired Fire Capt. I.Y.A.O.Y.A.S.
2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
2013 Honda Fit with Roadmaster Baseplate, BrakeMaster and All Terrain Falcon Tow Bar.
GS#819681685 FMCA#F437136 SKP#112720
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gruelens View Post
For an incredibly strong bond I use 3M 5200. Do not use the quick cure version as it does not get as strong. Caveat is it takes 7 days to cure under ideal conditions, longer if cold or humid. However, once cured, it will hold!
3M 5200.......fantastic product for bonding almost anything
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:39 PM   #14
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We used 5200 when we lived on a boat and only used it when we knew the part would never ever never ever need to be removed. Mighty tough stuff!
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