wheel bearing inspection question

CliffordM · 02-25-2024, 12:23 PM

Looks like one roller on my wheel bearing is nicked. All the others seem fine, the races are smooth to the fingernail test.

Not sure if it was that way always or what, odd to me that it is just the one roller and no others, but regardless I am leaning towards replacing it and the races. Not sure that I am up to the task of banging out races and replacing those properly so plan to take the hub to a shop or rv center have them do that part. Had another internal bearing that appeared to have a gold tint to it, was otherwise undamaged. Maybe it got a little warm and should be replaced as well.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

It is the inside bearing on a minni winnie TT dual axle, L68149 bearing, made in China.

**creativepart** · 02-25-2024, 12:38 PM

I'd take the Minnie Winnie to a Commercial Truck shop or even a trailer shop and have the hub and bearings serviced. It's much preferred to going to an RV shop. Truck shops deal in these issues all the time. RV shops tend to be generalists that don't do any one thing well - except charge a lot of money for slow, inferior work.

Ray,IN · 02-25-2024, 09:29 PM

some of the other tapered roller bearings are showing wear marks. Were it my trailer I'd have all bearing packs and races replaced.
I've found an RV repair shop is best with this task, but ask questions first; like how much is the bearing preload for my trailer. If you get a deer in the headlights look, drive on.
This is how its done:
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...-rg06-050.aspx

BTW, bearing preload is about 15-20-lb/ft. for new bearings and races, to insure the races are firmly seated for preventing future bearing/race problems.

**creativepart** · 02-25-2024, 09:41 PM

Ray, it’s a Class C motorhome, Minnie Winnie. An inside dually wheel hub. Which is why I suggested a Truck shop might be best.

Lv2Roam2 · 02-26-2024, 06:23 AM

Ditto on replacement at a truck center - and looks like there's more wear apparent on the bearing. Wonder if the 'gold tint' (burnish) is an indication of high heat?

CliffordM · 02-26-2024, 05:06 PM

Hi, it is in fact a travel trailer. it is almost comical how inexpensive the bearings and races are, but the labor is the catch!

the other thing I am strongly considering is just getting a whole new hub with all the components already in there. Seems like all the manufacturers prefer the chinese bearings so no luck there, but the labor costs make it same or maybe even less to just buy a new hub with new bearings and races pre-installed.

**creativepart** · 02-26-2024, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CliffordM

Hi, it is in fact a travel trailer.

Oh, OK - you said it was a Minnie Winnie, which is a Class C motorhome.

I took a look back at your prior posts and see that you have, in fact, a Minnie 2455BHS. Obviously, there is quite a difference between a Minnie travel trailer and a Minnie Winnie Class C motorhome.

PS. Apologies to Ray,IN you were absolutely correct, sir.

Ray,IN · 02-26-2024, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

Oh, OK - you said it was a Minnie Winnie, which is a Class C motorhome.

I took a look back at your prior posts and see that you have, in fact, a Minnie 2455BHS. Obviously, there is quite a difference between a Minnie travel trailer and a Minnie Winnie Class C motorhome.

PS. Apologies to Ray,IN you were absolutely correct, sir.

No problem, I can see it's easy to read it differently.

CliffordM · 02-29-2024, 05:12 PM

Good news, I found a local small engine / mower place that replaced the races for me. Labor rate was less than half that of the RV rate, and the gentlemen had it done in less than 15 minutes and that is all they charged me. Went with Timken bearings, which should hold up much better than the OEM and are very reasonably priced.

With the right tools and a little patience, packing your bearings and replacing the seals is a very do-able DIY job for those considering it. My advice would be spend a couple bucks on a seal puller, bearing packer, and go with the tub of grease vs the tube. I had the grease gun, but found the tub to be the way to go for filling both the bearing packer and just generally applying the grease. And I think the bonus is you can order the parts you want, for example going with the OEM replacement seals, the grease you want, etc. And if you find the bearings need replacement, you can upgrade those as well! Last thing, I did not go the easy lube route, I did it the 'old fashioned' way. Next go around, now that I have the tools and the bearing packer, it will be pretty inexpensive to complete this maintenance and save me some money for campsites!

Ray,IN · 02-29-2024, 05:48 PM

Not to deflate your bearing country of origin thinking, but look on the Timken bearings, does it say made in China?
reference: https://thecampingadvisor.com/where-...bearings-made/

CliffordM · 03-02-2024, 09:42 AM

Thankfully all made in the USA, but won't surprise me if that option dries up. I did go ahead and buy an extra set and I might just order the rest of them now and have them just in case, no doubt I could resale them in the future worst case.

Oddjob · 03-03-2024, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

I'd take the Minnie Winnie to a Commercial Truck shop or even a trailer shop and have the hub and bearings serviced. It's much preferred to going to an RV shop. Truck shops deal in these issues all the time. RV shops tend to be generalists that don't do any one thing well - except charge a lot of money for slow, inferior work.

You’re making a big mistake not to replace the bearing without the race. I owned a Diesel repair and general repairs for 45 years.