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10-17-2013, 01:40 PM
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#21
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ambler, PA
Posts: 36
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The more I think about it, the more I really like the idea of using Vodka as an anti-freeze. I'll have to do a little research on the compatibility of that and the plastic valves, etc.
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Larry & Cheryl Oscar, Louie, Ranger & Henry (our Springers)
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10-18-2013, 02:45 AM
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#22
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Homosassa, FL
Posts: 23
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When it comes to winterizing what should I do for the batteries? I am in the Boston, Ma area Nd gets pretty cold here in the winter. My motorhome is on the front lawn. I have two 12V deep cycle wet cell interstates for the coach and one wet cell 12V for the engine. My RV is covered with a tarp. Remove them to the house? Plug in the RV? Trickle charger? Going full time next spring so this is the first and last winter storage.
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3 Humans,2 Dogs,1 Vision, sharing a Winnebago Sightseer 35J on a Workhorse Chassis. Allen, Donna, Drew, Bella & Pippy in the MH we call Glor-E-B!
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10-18-2013, 05:15 AM
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#23
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Marathon, Florida
Posts: 222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flanagan
When it comes to winterizing what should I do for the batteries? I am in the Boston, Ma area Nd gets pretty cold here in the winter. My motorhome is on the front lawn. I have two 12V deep cycle wet cell interstates for the coach and one wet cell 12V for the engine. My RV is covered with a tarp. Remove them to the house? Plug in the RV? Trickle charger? Going full time next spring so this is the first and last winter storage.
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This is a pretty good write up on storing your batteries RV 101® Education with Mark Polk: Winter RV Battery Storage & Maintenance
That said, we are lucky enough to snowbird out of the frozen northeast so our batteries stay warm and in use. The summer toys like the boat stay up north so here is what we do. I remove them, check the water level in the not no-maintenance ones then fully charge and test with a load tester. If they are good inside the house they go to stay warm until spring. I think a trickle charger would really be the thing to do but we have about eight things left home so that would be tough to do. The two cars I leave in the unheated garage with trickle chargers attached. This has worked for us so far.
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Mark & Nancy
2004 Winnebago Vectra 40KD
Shep dog, R.I.P. Kenzie dog Toad 2015 Jeep Wrangler Willys Wheeler
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10-18-2013, 06:20 AM
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#24
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Homosassa, FL
Posts: 23
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Thanks HD4Mark,
Now the question is this, What about the generator, with my batteries stored inside I cannot start the generator through the winter, is that OK?
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10-18-2013, 11:38 AM
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#25
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 152
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We don't start our genny during winter. The last thing we do before we lock her up for the duration is take it to FJ, add Stabil to the tank, gas it up then take it for a drive with the genny running (under load) to distribute the Stabil throughout the systems & get it up to operating temp. Then it's back to the RV port & shut her down until May. Our coach sleeps from early Nov until then.
Both the engine & the genny have started right up, no problems, come Spring.
Lori-
__________________
Lori -
FMCA #F419886 | RV/MH Hall of Fame Lifetime Member
Virtual Grand Tour 45RL
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10-18-2013, 12:01 PM
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#26
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ambler, PA
Posts: 36
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Arrrgh! I hate this subject, winterizing. Our baby will be parked from now (just got back from a fall trip to NY State) until February when we go down to Key West. Just depresses me to see him sitting there.
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Larry & Cheryl Oscar, Louie, Ranger & Henry (our Springers)
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10-18-2013, 01:03 PM
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#27
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLOVNIT
We don't start our genny during winter. The last thing we do before we lock her up for the duration is take it to FJ, add Stabil to the tank, gas it up then take it for a drive with the genny running (under load) to distribute the Stabil throughout the systems & get it up to operating temp. Then it's back to the RV port & shut her down until May. Our coach sleeps from early Nov until then.
Both the engine & the genny have started right up, no problems, come Spring.
Lori-
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The monthly gen exercising, is more to dry out any moisture on the generator windings, than it is to run the engine .
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Ben & Sharon
2008 43' Holiday Rambler Scepter PDQ
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10-18-2013, 02:19 PM
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#28
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 152
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If the genny has been run, to temp, as we have done for the past 7 seasons, once shut down, there shouldn't be any moisture in it. It's hot - any moisture in it would evaporate off.
I thought the monthly start up (idling like many do), where a motor doesn't get up to temp, is what causes moisture. As long as it was put to bed hot & isn't ever started again until spring how would moisture get in? Help me understand.
Lori-
__________________
Lori -
FMCA #F419886 | RV/MH Hall of Fame Lifetime Member
Virtual Grand Tour 45RL
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10-18-2013, 02:27 PM
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#29
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ann Arbor Michigan
Posts: 224
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I do the winterizing myself. I use an air compressor and use the pink stuff in the p traps and toilets. I just got a letter from my RV storage lot stating they will winterize the water system for $100. There is an extra of $20 each for a wash machine and ice maker.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2005 Suncruiser Banks Powerpack
Chocolate lab (Buster) 2007 Jeep Wrangler
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10-18-2013, 02:36 PM
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#30
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLOVNIT
If the genny has been run, to temp, as we have done for the past 7 seasons, once shut down, there shouldn't be any moisture in it. It's hot - any moisture in it would evaporate off.
I thought the monthly start up (idling like many do), where a motor doesn't get up to temp, is what causes moisture. As long as it was put to bed hot & isn't ever started again until spring how would moisture get in? Help me understand.
Lori-
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Believe the generator part of the unit, is not sealed, and is open to atmosphere.
The instructions for my 10KW Onan, say's run for 2hrs, with at least 50% load, each month. Needed or not.... who knows . What I do know, is I would'nt want to have to replace this unit !
__________________
Ben & Sharon
2008 43' Holiday Rambler Scepter PDQ
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10-18-2013, 02:43 PM
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#31
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 152
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Hmmm. Ok. The engine (as well as all the other stuff under the hood) is also open to the atmosphere, but the workings inside of it aren't. Are generator windings outside the actual generator? I'm not a mechanic, but took the advice of one by not starting my coach or genny over winter, unless they will get up to operating temp. Just trying to be sure I'm not getting moisture build up where I shouldn't.
Lori-
__________________
Lori -
FMCA #F419886 | RV/MH Hall of Fame Lifetime Member
Virtual Grand Tour 45RL
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10-18-2013, 03:23 PM
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#32
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumps
Just did it last weekend. Takes some common sense, a basic knowledge of the levers (and where they are), about 4 gallons of pink, and 90 minutes. If you are concerned, blow out the system first. Lots on YouTube to walk you through the process. We find that it goes much faster/smoother with two people (one inside and one outside). \ken
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YIPES! 90 minutes. I blow mine out on the road when traveling. Takes 15 to 20 minutes max and that is only because I have a W/D. In my previous TT I had it down to about 10 minutes.
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10-19-2013, 08:31 AM
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#33
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: FTer Class of 2015 Origin: Evergreen, Colorado
Posts: 117
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Last stop on a Fall trip is a great time to do this. From dumping all the tanks, cleaning them, draining the HWH, accessing/flipping the valves, blowing the lines, sucking the pink stuff to all corners of the unit, filling the traps, to margarita(!) time usually takes us about 90 minutes. But we're pretty anal about the process. Don't try to make it a competition. \ken
__________________
Ken & Deb (WIT Club, FMCA, SKP, Harvest Hosts, and grateful volunteers with SOWERs)
2005 Winnebago Vectra 40FD w/400ISL and Allison 3000MH on Freightliner's Evolution chassis, Onan QD7500, 1000w Renogy solar, BlueOx tow gear, and 2015 Cherokee TrailHawk toad.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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10-19-2013, 08:35 AM
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#34
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewaldo
And if you do, do you use rv anti freeze. I have always done mine and did so last week using rv anti freeze.
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I do my own, blow the lines with compressed air.
__________________
2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
Don't believe everything you think.
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10-19-2013, 08:51 AM
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#35
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumps
Last stop on a Fall trip is a great time to do this. From dumping all the tanks, cleaning them, draining the HWH, accessing/flipping the valves, blowing the lines, sucking the pink stuff to all corners of the unit, filling the traps, to margarita(!) time usually takes us about 90 minutes. But we're pretty anal about the process. Don't try to make it a competition. \ken
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The problem is I winterize and de-winterize 5 or 6 times a year. Whenever I find time to go. Suspect it would be a pita for the de-winterize with the pink stuff. That pink stuff does freeze, just not hard. It gets like jelly. If it is a cold day (25 degrees) flushing that stuff out not as easy as it sounds. Unless you don't mind drinking funny tasting pink lemonade.
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10-19-2013, 09:08 AM
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#36
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyorancher
The problem is I winterize and de-winterize 5 or 6 times a year. Whenever I find time to go. Suspect it would be a pita for the de-winterize with the pink stuff. That pink stuff does freeze, just not hard. It gets like jelly. If it is a cold day (25 degrees) flushing that stuff out not as easy as it sounds. Unless you don't mind drinking funny tasting pink lemonade.
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+1 I don't put chemicals into my potable water system, except for chlorine to sanitize once per year.
__________________
2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
Don't believe everything you think.
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10-19-2013, 09:12 AM
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#37
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 5 miles south of Lakeville, Mn
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PushedAround
The more I think about it, the more I really like the idea of using Vodka as an anti-freeze. I'll have to do a little research on the compatibility of that and the plastic valves, etc.
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Been using Vodka for fifteen years. Lots of folks laugh at me over it, but there are quite a few positive reasons for it. Costs a little more, but still cheaper than having a dealer do it.
__________________
Jim and Carol Cooper with Oreo the Kitty
FAA ATC ret, VFW, Legion, VVA, NRA
2012 Journey 36M, Cummins 360hp, 2015 Ford Explorer Blue Ox, AF1
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10-19-2013, 10:20 AM
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#38
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooperhawk
Been using Vodka for fifteen years. Lots of folks laugh at me over it, but there are quite a few positive reasons for it. Costs a little more, but still cheaper than having a dealer do it.
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One positive I can think of is the hot and cold running Smirnoff on the first trip of the season. Gives a new meaning to "...must be something in the water"
__________________
2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
Don't believe everything you think.
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10-19-2013, 10:24 AM
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#39
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Winston Salem, NC
Posts: 50
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I live in NC. It does get cold for a few days/weeks of the winter. It usually never drops into the teens for long.
I installed a 50 amp box and leave it plugged into the shore power at the side of my garage. I always have the temp set to about 60 deg when not using the coach. That is my winterizing...
I lived n NM for years, and head out there to see realities quite often. Again, it can get cold, but not like up north.
If you can, you may want to consider installing shore power at you home. That should be able to be done for about $200 or less, for all equipment and labor for having an electrician do it professionally.
I also save all the extra cost for storing it somewhere.
Regardless, I think I will take the advice to head down to FL for the winter months. I lived there for some time as well...
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10-19-2013, 10:53 AM
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#40
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Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 1
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I winterize my RV myself, several times each winter, since we often use the RV for long weekend during the winter. I "fully winterize" in Nov. replacing filters with bypass plugs or plates, drain all of the water and blow the system out with my $99 air compressor then add the red stuff to the drains. This year traded up to Diesel Pusher with more systems including a Washer/Dryer and refer with an ice maker. I plan to only winterize them in Nov. and shut off the water to them until Spring.
Re-winterizing and un-winterizing takes me about 30 minutes plus the time to flush (fill, drain and re-fill) the water tank. I only fill the water tanks at my home and leave the filters bypassed until Spring.
My really-cheap low-pressure $99 air compressor makes winterizing easy. I agree that red stuff really impacts the taste of the water so I never run it thru the system - only the drains and I do put some in the Washer/Dryer.
For my old Winnebago I created a checklist the first year and followed / revised it the following years. This year I am re-working it for my new-to-me 2001 Monaco Dynasty.
/Dave Snow
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