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02-22-2012, 07:58 PM
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#1
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, Ga.
Posts: 29
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Basement door latch replacement
I just purchased 3 new basement door latches( the ones with the teflon tongue). If anyone has replaced these I would sure appreciate some insight. Looks to me like the whole frame has to be disassembled to remove and reinstall. Definitely not maint. friendly. Thanks in advance.
"Being retired means you can put off till tomorrow what you could have done today"
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Steve & Cheryl w/3rd Crewmember Peanut, Our Deerhead Chiuaua
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 35U F53, V10 Gasser,Safe T Plus
2004 Wrangler Toad via Stowmaster 5000, BrakeBuddy Classic
Marriage is a relationship in which one is always right and the other is the husband
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02-22-2012, 11:15 PM
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#2
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,827
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I'm not sure what it's like on your 2000 Adventurer, bu on my 2005 Vectra there is a plastic cover on the inside of the basement doors behind the door handle in the middle of the door. (Looking at the pictures in the 2000 Adventurer brochure it looks like you have something similar.)
To replace the latch you remove the plastic cover, exposing the inner workings of the handle mechanism. You should see a metal rod going to each latch at the side of the door. I don't remember precisely, but I believe that I unhooked the rods from the center mechanism first. (On mine there is solid styrofoam inside the door, so the metal rod is constrained and can't fall down/out, but if you don't have that you may need to make sure that you hold onto it until you can attach it to the new latch.) Drill out the pop rivets holding the broken latch to the edge of the door, unhooking it from the metal rod. Hook the new latch on and secure it with a couple of aluminum pop rivets, reconnect things in the center, put the plastic cover back on, and you should be all set.
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Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
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02-23-2012, 08:18 AM
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#3
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,653
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Chris described it very well ...not a big deal once you get at it. After you've done one, the next time it might be a ten minute job at most. Of course, you do need some proper size pop rivets and cheap pop rivet gun.
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Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e TRADED OFF JUL 2023 / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
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02-23-2012, 11:32 AM
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#4
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, Ga.
Posts: 29
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I must have not described my issue properly. The lock and latch assy. (center) is not the problem. The latch on either end of the door is what malfunctioned. I have 3 that just won't cooperate. Like you said, the door is solid foam and appears to have a nest where the tongue latch is located. Thanks for the info., I'll have to do that first.
__________________
Steve & Cheryl w/3rd Crewmember Peanut, Our Deerhead Chiuaua
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 35U F53, V10 Gasser,Safe T Plus
2004 Wrangler Toad via Stowmaster 5000, BrakeBuddy Classic
Marriage is a relationship in which one is always right and the other is the husband
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02-23-2012, 01:25 PM
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#5
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,827
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I understand that you need to replace the latch assembly at the edge of the door. It is connected via a rod to the handle mechanism in the center of the door. You need to get access to that so that you can unhook the rod in the center, allowing you to remove the latch at the door edge (after drilling out the pop rivets).
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Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
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02-23-2012, 02:00 PM
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#6
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,653
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I think you were clear ...Winnie calls the piece the "slide bolt" ...spring-loaded and pops out each side of the door and is operated by the "paddle latch assembly" mounted toward the center of the door. You may be able to replace the slide bolt w/o removing the paddle latch depending on your setup ...only reason to remove the paddlelatch is to get to the rods that connect to the slide bolt IF you need to take them loose.
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Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e TRADED OFF JUL 2023 / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
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02-23-2012, 04:31 PM
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#7
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Draper, UT
Posts: 309
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Hi Ho: We have the same (similar) coach. The problem is that the latch mechanism installs from the inside (not the outside). The only way to get to it is to take the skin off the door. This bothered me a little, but I just went ahead and drilled out the rivits that hold the skins on and all was well. It does mean a couple more rivits, but it isn't as bad as you might think.
Dirk
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02-23-2012, 05:28 PM
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#8
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, Ga.
Posts: 29
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Thanks Dirk and everyone else that replied. I sorta kinda thought it was going to be more difficult than a couple of rivets out and back in. Too bad it's 3 different doors. Guess I'll be an expert by the time I finish.
Being retired means you can put off till tomorrow what you could have done today.
__________________
Steve & Cheryl w/3rd Crewmember Peanut, Our Deerhead Chiuaua
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 35U F53, V10 Gasser,Safe T Plus
2004 Wrangler Toad via Stowmaster 5000, BrakeBuddy Classic
Marriage is a relationship in which one is always right and the other is the husband
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02-23-2012, 06:31 PM
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#9
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 274
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If I remember when I did mine the trick was being able to get to the rod (that pulls the plastic catch in) and disconnecting it from the broken latch. Drill out the pop rivets on the side of the door and reconnecting the rod to the new latch and rerivet.
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02-23-2012, 07:00 PM
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#10
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirko
Hi Ho: We have the same (similar) coach. The problem is that the latch mechanism installs from the inside (not the outside). The only way to get to it is to take the skin off the door. This bothered me a little, but I just went ahead and drilled out the rivits that hold the skins on and all was well. It does mean a couple more rivits, but it isn't as bad as you might think.
Dirk
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Are you saying that there isn't a plastic cover over the inside of the latch mechanism? It certainly looks like there is one in the photos in the 2000 Adventurer brochure.
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Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
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02-23-2012, 07:58 PM
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#11
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Draper, UT
Posts: 309
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Hi Ho Chris: I don't know about other coache, but on our 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U there isn't. I don't know why.
Dirk
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02-24-2012, 08:31 AM
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#12
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,827
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Page 72 of the 2000 Adventurer 35U Parts Catalog shows a breakdown of all of the parts that make up the compartment doors. It sure looks like item key #3 in that diagram (Cover, Latch, Black) is a plastic cover over the inside of the mechanism, matching what I see in the brochure and very similar to what's on my coach.
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Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
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11-24-2016, 03:27 PM
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#13
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap
I think you were clear ...Winnie calls the piece the "slide bolt" ...spring-loaded and pops out each side of the door and is operated by the "paddle latch assembly" mounted toward the center of the door. You may be able to replace the slide bolt w/o removing the paddle latch depending on your setup ...only reason to remove the paddlelatch is to get to the rods that connect to the slide bolt IF you need to take them loose.
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Where might I order this slide bolt you speak of? just had one break last night...
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2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
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11-24-2016, 03:45 PM
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#14
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,222
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Take a look at THIS link.
Do yourself a favor and do NOT replace the broken latch with the factory plastic latches. These are the same price and won't break... ever
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Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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11-24-2016, 04:44 PM
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#15
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,653
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I have got the originals from Lichtsinn Motors in Forest City. In 2006 they were $5.36 ea.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e TRADED OFF JUL 2023 / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
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11-24-2016, 07:29 PM
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#16
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,222
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Wow, no wonder they break... I saw them in an RV supply in Palm Springs for ~$13
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Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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11-25-2016, 11:16 AM
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#17
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Willow, Alaska
Posts: 17
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Jeff is right on the money. I have dealt with RB Machining more than once for these pesky latches. In Alaska, one good door slam in cold weather will break the plastic ones. I have changed out 5 of mine now because they broke. I carry three spares for when the other plastic ones give out. No problems with the aluminum ones.
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Mark and Evelyn
2008 Beaver Marquis Amethyst 45ft, 600 CAT
2014 Ford Edge (toad)...Alaska Residents
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11-25-2016, 11:54 AM
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#18
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,222
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__________________
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Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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11-26-2016, 07:45 AM
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#19
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
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Thanks all!
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
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08-16-2018, 12:07 AM
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#20
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 33
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At the risk of restarting a dormant thread...
I found this because I've got a bunch of bad latches on a 99 Winn Adventurer I recently purchased. The latch assemblies are riveted to the INSIDE of the frame of the door.
For each latch, you have to drill out 5 small rivets and the 2 larger rivets that hold the latch assembly so that you can then remove the side piece of the frame.
It's not a terrible job but man, I'm envious of the folks that can do it without disassembling their door.
I'll try to do a thread on it somewhere as I've been searching and cannot find thread that describes it. I think most other models and years got it right.
Winnebago Parts also sent a latch to me that's a little different what was in the door, but that's yet another issue.
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