Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-22-2012, 07:58 PM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
new2RVn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, Ga.
Posts: 29
Basement door latch replacement

I just purchased 3 new basement door latches( the ones with the teflon tongue). If anyone has replaced these I would sure appreciate some insight. Looks to me like the whole frame has to be disassembled to remove and reinstall. Definitely not maint. friendly. Thanks in advance.


"Being retired means you can put off till tomorrow what you could have done today"
__________________
Steve & Cheryl w/3rd Crewmember Peanut, Our Deerhead Chiuaua
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 35U F53, V10 Gasser,Safe T Plus
2004 Wrangler Toad via Stowmaster 5000, BrakeBuddy Classic
Marriage is a relationship in which one is always right and the other is the husband
new2RVn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2012, 11:15 PM   #2
Winnebago Master
 
cbeierl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,519
I'm not sure what it's like on your 2000 Adventurer, bu on my 2005 Vectra there is a plastic cover on the inside of the basement doors behind the door handle in the middle of the door. (Looking at the pictures in the 2000 Adventurer brochure it looks like you have something similar.)

To replace the latch you remove the plastic cover, exposing the inner workings of the handle mechanism. You should see a metal rod going to each latch at the side of the door. I don't remember precisely, but I believe that I unhooked the rods from the center mechanism first. (On mine there is solid styrofoam inside the door, so the metal rod is constrained and can't fall down/out, but if you don't have that you may need to make sure that you hold onto it until you can attach it to the new latch.) Drill out the pop rivets holding the broken latch to the edge of the door, unhooking it from the metal rod. Hook the new latch on and secure it with a couple of aluminum pop rivets, reconnect things in the center, put the plastic cover back on, and you should be all set.
__________________
Chris Beierl

2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
cbeierl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 08:18 AM   #3
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,597
Chris described it very well ...not a big deal once you get at it. After you've done one, the next time it might be a ten minute job at most. Of course, you do need some proper size pop rivets and cheap pop rivet gun.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 11:32 AM   #4
Winnebago Camper
 
new2RVn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, Ga.
Posts: 29
I must have not described my issue properly. The lock and latch assy. (center) is not the problem. The latch on either end of the door is what malfunctioned. I have 3 that just won't cooperate. Like you said, the door is solid foam and appears to have a nest where the tongue latch is located. Thanks for the info., I'll have to do that first.
__________________
Steve & Cheryl w/3rd Crewmember Peanut, Our Deerhead Chiuaua
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 35U F53, V10 Gasser,Safe T Plus
2004 Wrangler Toad via Stowmaster 5000, BrakeBuddy Classic
Marriage is a relationship in which one is always right and the other is the husband
new2RVn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 01:25 PM   #5
Winnebago Master
 
cbeierl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,519
I understand that you need to replace the latch assembly at the edge of the door. It is connected via a rod to the handle mechanism in the center of the door. You need to get access to that so that you can unhook the rod in the center, allowing you to remove the latch at the door edge (after drilling out the pop rivets).
__________________
Chris Beierl

2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
cbeierl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 02:00 PM   #6
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,597
I think you were clear ...Winnie calls the piece the "slide bolt" ...spring-loaded and pops out each side of the door and is operated by the "paddle latch assembly" mounted toward the center of the door. You may be able to replace the slide bolt w/o removing the paddle latch depending on your setup ...only reason to remove the paddlelatch is to get to the rods that connect to the slide bolt IF you need to take them loose.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 04:31 PM   #7
Winnie-Wise
 
dirko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Draper, UT
Posts: 309
Hi Ho: We have the same (similar) coach. The problem is that the latch mechanism installs from the inside (not the outside). The only way to get to it is to take the skin off the door. This bothered me a little, but I just went ahead and drilled out the rivits that hold the skins on and all was well. It does mean a couple more rivits, but it isn't as bad as you might think.

Dirk
dirko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 05:28 PM   #8
Winnebago Camper
 
new2RVn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, Ga.
Posts: 29
Thanks Dirk and everyone else that replied. I sorta kinda thought it was going to be more difficult than a couple of rivets out and back in. Too bad it's 3 different doors. Guess I'll be an expert by the time I finish.

Being retired means you can put off till tomorrow what you could have done today.
__________________
Steve & Cheryl w/3rd Crewmember Peanut, Our Deerhead Chiuaua
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 35U F53, V10 Gasser,Safe T Plus
2004 Wrangler Toad via Stowmaster 5000, BrakeBuddy Classic
Marriage is a relationship in which one is always right and the other is the husband
new2RVn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 06:31 PM   #9
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 274
If I remember when I did mine the trick was being able to get to the rod (that pulls the plastic catch in) and disconnecting it from the broken latch. Drill out the pop rivets on the side of the door and reconnecting the rod to the new latch and rerivet.
MaverickBBD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 07:00 PM   #10
Winnebago Master
 
cbeierl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirko View Post
Hi Ho: We have the same (similar) coach. The problem is that the latch mechanism installs from the inside (not the outside). The only way to get to it is to take the skin off the door. This bothered me a little, but I just went ahead and drilled out the rivits that hold the skins on and all was well. It does mean a couple more rivits, but it isn't as bad as you might think.

Dirk
Are you saying that there isn't a plastic cover over the inside of the latch mechanism? It certainly looks like there is one in the photos in the 2000 Adventurer brochure.
__________________
Chris Beierl

2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
cbeierl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 07:58 PM   #11
Winnie-Wise
 
dirko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Draper, UT
Posts: 309
Hi Ho Chris: I don't know about other coache, but on our 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U there isn't. I don't know why.
Dirk
dirko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2012, 08:31 AM   #12
Winnebago Master
 
cbeierl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,519
Page 72 of the 2000 Adventurer 35U Parts Catalog shows a breakdown of all of the parts that make up the compartment doors. It sure looks like item key #3 in that diagram (Cover, Latch, Black) is a plastic cover over the inside of the mechanism, matching what I see in the brochure and very similar to what's on my coach.
__________________
Chris Beierl

2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
cbeierl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2016, 03:27 PM   #13
Winnebago Owner
 
navychaps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
I think you were clear ...Winnie calls the piece the "slide bolt" ...spring-loaded and pops out each side of the door and is operated by the "paddle latch assembly" mounted toward the center of the door. You may be able to replace the slide bolt w/o removing the paddle latch depending on your setup ...only reason to remove the paddlelatch is to get to the rods that connect to the slide bolt IF you need to take them loose.
Where might I order this slide bolt you speak of? just had one break last night...
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
navychaps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2016, 03:45 PM   #14
Winnebago Master
 
SCVJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,219
Take a look at THIS link.

Do yourself a favor and do NOT replace the broken latch with the factory plastic latches. These are the same price and won't break... ever
__________________
_______________________________

Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
SCVJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2016, 04:44 PM   #15
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,597
I have got the originals from Lichtsinn Motors in Forest City. In 2006 they were $5.36 ea.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2016, 07:29 PM   #16
Winnebago Master
 
SCVJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,219
Wow, no wonder they break... I saw them in an RV supply in Palm Springs for ~$13
__________________
_______________________________

Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
SCVJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2016, 11:16 AM   #17
Winnebago Camper
 
megehrs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Willow, Alaska
Posts: 17
Jeff is right on the money. I have dealt with RB Machining more than once for these pesky latches. In Alaska, one good door slam in cold weather will break the plastic ones. I have changed out 5 of mine now because they broke. I carry three spares for when the other plastic ones give out. No problems with the aluminum ones.
__________________
Mark and Evelyn
2008 Beaver Marquis Amethyst 45ft, 600 CAT
2014 Ford Edge (toad)...Alaska Residents
megehrs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2016, 11:54 AM   #18
Winnebago Master
 
SCVJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,219
I forgot about this post I did here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/repl...es-236108.html
__________________
_______________________________

Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
SCVJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2016, 07:45 AM   #19
Winnebago Owner
 
navychaps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
Thanks all!
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
navychaps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2018, 12:07 AM   #20
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 25
At the risk of restarting a dormant thread...

I found this because I've got a bunch of bad latches on a 99 Winn Adventurer I recently purchased. The latch assemblies are riveted to the INSIDE of the frame of the door.
For each latch, you have to drill out 5 small rivets and the 2 larger rivets that hold the latch assembly so that you can then remove the side piece of the frame.
It's not a terrible job but man, I'm envious of the folks that can do it without disassembling their door.
I'll try to do a thread on it somewhere as I've been searching and cannot find thread that describes it. I think most other models and years got it right.
Winnebago Parts also sent a latch to me that's a little different what was in the door, but that's yet another issue.
AndyAk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
door, replacement


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cargo Door Latch Replacement Trimble T General Maintenance and Repair 8 12-27-2016 10:03 AM
Replacement Red plastic latch on electric cord door flap RTZ6885 General Maintenance and Repair 7 07-05-2015 08:59 AM
Cargo Door Latch Replacement - 2003 Ultimate Freedom FenceMan General Maintenance and Repair 19 05-25-2013 08:58 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×