AC Duct

codgerbill · 07-21-2011, 12:11 PM

We are in camping in the hot weather (100 degrees or so) and the basement air has not been keeping up. After reading many blogs regarding the basement air and associated duct work I took a look at my duct work that is behind the back cap. I found that the duct has an open corner seam in a spot that is too high up to reach. I am wondering if the back cap will need to be removed to repair the duct?

cbeierl · 07-21-2011, 12:58 PM

This thread Duct Separation and the other thread(s) referenced by it may prove useful.

Duner · 07-22-2011, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codgerbill

...... I found that the duct has an open corner seam in a spot that is too high up to reach. I am wondering if the back cap will need to be removed to repair the duct?

I was able to tape up a separation in my duct by removing the brake light and working thru the the 5 inch hole in the fiberglass. You might be lucky enough to access the bad spot the same way....depending on the size and style of lamp assembly cutout.

Good luck,
Bill

PDI · 07-24-2011, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbeierl

This thread Duct Separation and the other thread(s) referenced by it may prove useful.

Thudman's post is right on. I had a small member of the club crawl up from the bottom with the elbo removed. He put duct tape on a stick and covered the spot were the duct came apart. No more whishering at night.

codgerbill · 07-24-2011, 06:12 PM

I have called the RV dealer where I purchased the coach. It was estimated to be 18-20 hours to remove the cap, fix the duct, and then re install the cap. They estimated up to $2000 to do the fix. I purchased a cornerstone extended coach warrenty when I bought the coach and I asked the dealer to contact them to find how much they will cover. I have also looked at the thread concerning what others have done. I will be getting the estimate on the dealer doing the work and go from there. The one thing that disturbs me is that the dealer has a service schedule that I will have to wait 3 weeks for an appointment and they will keep it for at least a week. We are going to a Winnebago outing for which I volunteered to be the"wagonmaster" and if I go to the dealer on their schedule I would not be at the outing. I would hate to go thru another time with the RV with the AC performing so poorly.......

My next thought is if the warrenty company will allow me to have the work done at another dealer.

Or...... try to do the repair myself.

Duner · 07-24-2011, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codgerbill

..... I purchased a cornerstone extended coach warrenty when I bought the coach and I asked the dealer to contact them to find how much they will cover......

My next thought is if the warrenty company will allow me to have the work done at another dealer.

Or...... try to do the repair myself.

Good luck with the extended warranty folks. My $3000 extended warranty did not cover stress cracks/failures (which is so dang common and can be very expensive).

Have you looked under the rear cap to see where the open seam is located? I suggest sticking a tape measure under there to find out how high up the problem area is from the ground. Then compare that to the tail lamp assembly and you may find that it is located within an arms length away from that opening. I think you'll find that top of the rectangular shaft meets the bottom of the Y-vent is where there may be the leaky seal....and that's within reach. That's where I repaired my leak. My coach is only one yr older than yours and it's probably the same parts used. I found a picture of the rear of a coach like yours and the lamp assembly is much larger than mine....so the job would be a lot easier.

If you figure out a way to do it yourself, it could save lots of dollars and time in the shop.

Again good luck,
Bill

J Stemler · 07-25-2011, 12:14 PM

I just finished fixing a leak in the duct work on my 2004 Adventurer 38G. With the air running, I found that I had about a 30" opening in the seam of the duct going up the back of the coach. Laying on my back and looking up, the leak was on the right side ( drivers side ) of the duct and I could just barely reach the point where it started. I bought 4" foil tape, I then cut off a good long piece and stuck it to the duct work just below the strart of the leak. Using a scrub brush that screwed onto a long handle, I used that to push the tape up and smooth it out. I did this about 4 times to make sure I had the seam completely sealed. Turned on the a/c and checked, no leakage, but discovered a smaller leak on the back side of the duct, the side that faces the rear of the coach using the same method, I tried to reach the leak by removing the passenger side rear light assembly, but I still could not reach it. After I seal all leaks, turned on a/c to confirm all leaks were sealed. I can not believe the difference in the way the coach cools, I never had such cooling as I have now, just in time for Myrtle Beach in 3 weeks !!!!!

Duner · 07-25-2011, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J Stemler

I just finished fixing a leak in the duct work on my 2004 Adventurer 38G. ........ I never had such cooling as I have now, just in time for Myrtle Beach in 3 weeks !!!!!

J's work proves my point "Where there's a will, there's a way".

Also, I didn't mention..... be sure to clean the surfaces before hand as best you can. I used soapy water (Awesome) and followed up with alcohol. A clean surface will make the repair last a long time.

DancinCampers · 07-26-2011, 06:50 AM

After I resealed mine, I used large swim noodles to build a spacer between the ductwork and rear cap. This could also be used as a temp fix after coach is set up. Pictures should be in gallery.

Tim&Paula · 07-26-2011, 07:53 AM

Another way to fix the problem would be to contact someone who applies spray foam insulation. They have a flexible hose that will get to the area very easily and seal the leak.

slick60 · 07-26-2011, 09:39 AM

I have a 2004 Journey and had the sam problem. I took the back lower cap off and sealed the seam. It did tak about a half day to remove the 30 or so screws (some of which I do not know how they ever installed them) but not over whelming. Sounds like a I save about $2500. YOU can do this.

codgerbill · 07-26-2011, 11:17 AM

I just dropped off the coach at the RV dealer where I purchased it. They contacted the warrenty company and the warrenty will cover the repaire (minus a $100 deductable).

There are some pictures, from others, showing the duct and the open seam. The pictures show two (2) support brackets holding the duct to the back wall. It is my suspicion that if Winnebago had installed a bracket between the existing support brackets that the problem which is occuring with this duct, would go away. I do believe that the air pressure over time has tended to expand the duct and that over time the moving air has dried the glue of the metallic tape on the duct, allowing the duct to open up on the seams between the existing brackets. With that in mind I have asked the dealers service department to install another bracket between the two existing brackets.

Roadking52 · 07-30-2011, 07:03 PM

This past weekend I arrived at a Florida campground with very little air flow from the AC ducts. I discovered the supply duct elbow loose from the A/C unit. After obtaining a piece of angle and two c clamps, I clamped the elbow back to the unit. I then noticed air moving things further up the duct and reaching up beside the duct discovered the corner of the duct closest to the engine split for about 6 inches. There is a panel between the duct and the radiator that can be removed with a screwdriver (6 screws) giving access to the duct in the area of the split. After wiping the duct clean with a wet cloth, I taped the corner shut. Then I found the other side of the duct leaking where the corner is taped together at the factory. I was able to reach that while laying on the ground, and cleaned and taped it also.

The result was that the A/C actually maintained 72 degrees all day and even cycled on and off throughout the day. First time in my memory this has occurred. Well worth the effort.

MDPD · 08-02-2011, 08:54 AM

Had the same issue when my '06 Journey was still under warranty. I stopped at the factory and after a two day wait they removed the rear cap and re-taped the duct. About a year later the tape from the elbow, up approx. three feet came apart again. From the bottom and through the tail light I was able to retape and then coated the duct with brush on duct sealer I bought at Home Depot. With a brush attached to a stick I was able to get almost to the top with the sealer. It is like a rock now and no sign of opening after almost four years.

codgerbill · 08-02-2011, 12:34 PM

MDPD,

Just curious as to what this "brush on Duct Sealer" is? I will be getting the coach back this week and I am thinking that perhaps an application of this stuff over the top of everything will make the duct last even longer.

ChiefJohn · 08-02-2011, 12:48 PM

"Master Flow Water Based Mastic Half Gallon Tub - WBA50 at The Home Depot Master Flow Water Based Mastic is a water-based adhesive that creates an air-tight seal on duct seams and joints. By eliminating air leakage, sealant increases the overall efficiency of the duct system, which can cut energy costs. Available in tubes or tubs."