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Old 08-20-2007, 05:01 AM   #1
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Greetings,
I went to the publication section of Winnebago but cannot seem to find a manual for the air conditioner. I have a 2002 Adventurer 32V, workhorse chasis w/ basement air. The problem is that the #2 compressor does not kick on when plugged into the 30 amp service. Nothing else is on and I have 17 amps w/ #1 on. The #2 will kick on for a moment and go to 28 amps but then kicks off. The thermostst is set to 80 and it's 99 in the coach (Phoenix, AZ). I would like to find the troubleshooting section and an explanantion of how the system works. Thanks in advance,
Christian
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:01 AM   #2
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Greetings,
I went to the publication section of Winnebago but cannot seem to find a manual for the air conditioner. I have a 2002 Adventurer 32V, workhorse chasis w/ basement air. The problem is that the #2 compressor does not kick on when plugged into the 30 amp service. Nothing else is on and I have 17 amps w/ #1 on. The #2 will kick on for a moment and go to 28 amps but then kicks off. The thermostst is set to 80 and it's 99 in the coach (Phoenix, AZ). I would like to find the troubleshooting section and an explanantion of how the system works. Thanks in advance,
Christian
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Old 08-20-2007, 06:01 AM   #3
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First ...Check the A/C's 110V CB for the number two compressor and reset again.
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:08 PM   #4
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Good chance that the start capacitor for your #2 AC has died. Expect to pay around $35.00 for a new one.
Open the cover over the control circuits and if its bad, you should be able to visually acertain if it is the problem or not.
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:34 PM   #5
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FLYING W: I just went through this same problem with my 01 Itasca Suncruiser. All the symptoms are the same. Dealer replaced thermostat and every thing is back to normal. $300.00 installed, which included all the diagnostics and trouble shooting. Third thermostat on this coach since new.
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:47 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help everyone! Looks like I've got my work cut out for me.
Christian
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:11 PM   #7
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Go to RVP products for the parts & service manuals. I've got a locked up compressor & it reacts the same as yours. I changed the start cap. & switched the run cap. with no luck. The #1 start capacitors cap was blown loose but it was still working fine. The replacement start cap. was $12 @ a RV dealer near me. I'm thinking about putting a roof unit on up front & that way I'd have 2 separate units. Although running off of 1 compressor last week in SC it was real comfortable inside with mid to high 90s temp outside, so I'm wondering which way to go.
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Old 08-20-2007, 07:42 PM   #8
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Christian

As you have read here, your problem could be due to one of several causes. When mine was doing what you describe, the problem was burned wiring and components on the #2 compressor side due to low voltage.

If you want to do some trouble-shooting on your own, you can find RVP Products basement ac/heat pump info at www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/products/offroof/offroof.php
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:04 AM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by gunny:
Good chance that the start capacitor for your #2 AC has died. Expect to pay around $35.00 for a new one.
Open the cover over the control circuits and if its bad, you should be able to visually acertain if it is the problem or not. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Where's the cover over the control circuits and what does the starter capacitor look like?
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Old 08-21-2007, 06:53 PM   #10
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I ordered the thermostat today and will let everyone know how it works out. The reason I chose the thermostat is beacause I've already had a few issues with it but thought it was something I did wrong. After researching this forum and finding the high failure rate of the thermostat, I thought I would try it. Worst case, I have an extra on hand. Thanks for all the helpful responses.
Christian
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:56 AM   #11
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Pubtym,

This thread should be helpful

Start Cap Thread
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:39 AM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DancinCampers:
Pubtym,

This thread should be helpful

Start Cap Thread </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Perect!. I'll keep that info in file...very appreciated!
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:48 PM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Pubtym:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DancinCampers:
Pubtym,

This thread should be helpful

Start Cap Thread </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Perect!. I'll keep that info in file...very appreciated! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I had to replace both sets on mine yesterday. Got the last two starter and capacitor kits the dealer had in stock. It cost me $50 for both of them.

Took a philips screwdriver and needle nosed pliers to get the job done.

Remeber to turn off both breakers for compressors 1 and 2.

If running on the generator watch out as it feeds the #2 compressor directly and the unit will still be juiced up even if the breaker for the #2 compresor is turned off.
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Old 08-24-2007, 06:10 PM   #14
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Ok, you may not know it but the True Air has only one compressor, the thermostat is marked for two. However the fact is all the True Air units for RV's just have one compressor.
If you think about it, the inrush of current is 110% of operation load of 18.7 amps and with a 30 amp power supply the inrush current would be 37.4 amps if you had two compressors and that would exceed your main. That is why you only have one.
I have a 50 amp shore power cable, and it has the same amp draw as yours. Just as it says your amp draw is the same as mine.
Good luck
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Old 08-24-2007, 09:21 PM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">fact is all the True Air units for RV's just have one compressor. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I don't know what True Air units you are familiar with, but the service manuals for my RVP 6535 series model clearly show two compressors, labeled "Compressor 1" and right beside it "Compressor 2." I've seen both compressors when my unit has been out of my rig.

It is true that if two compressors kicked on at the same time, the start-up surge would be too much for a 30a circuit. That is why they are designed to first kick on compressor #1, and then if the temp differential is enough, to kick on compressor #2 apx 2 minutes later. They never kick on at the same time. Winnebago and RVP specifically designed these units so you can run two compressors on a 30a circuit.
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Old 08-27-2007, 12:13 AM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sceretired:
Ok, you may not know it but the True Air has only one compressor, the thermostat is marked for two. However the fact is all the True Air units for RV's just have one compressor.
If you think about it, the inrush of current is 110% of operation load of 18.7 amps and with a 30 amp power supply the inrush current would be 37.4 amps if you had two compressors and that would exceed your main. That is why you only have one.
I have a 50 amp shore power cable, and it has the same amp draw as yours. Just as it says your amp draw is the same as mine.
Good luck </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have seen with my own eyes the two separate compressors in multiple Basement Air/True Air systems. There were two in my 1995 and there are two in my 2001. The control panel inside the True Air unit has four motor starting systems, one for the evaporator, one for the condensor, one for compessor #1 and another for compressor #2. The generators are wired up with a separate 20 amp breaker that supplies power to the #1 compressor and has the #2 on with the main panel.

Power management takes care of turning off the second compressor if there are other loads running and enough amperage is not available at the time whether you are on shore power or the generator.
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:15 PM   #17
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Thanks for everyone's input. As suggested, I replaced the therrmostat today with a new one from Lichtsinn Winnebago. Dave at Lichtsinn was extremely helpful. I installed my new thermostat in about 3 minutes and now both compressors work and keep working! Started at 17 amps and then to 27 amps and ran that way for the 15 minutes I had the A/C going to check the system. For future reference, have the Serial Number of your coach handy when you call for parts. They will reference your caoch to be sure they order the correct part. Happy Trails and stay cool!
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:58 PM   #18
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Did Lichtsinn tell you why the thermostat stops #2 compressor from kicking in or staying on line? My dealer did not tell me in detail, just said it failed to provide 110V to #2 compressor. As I related in my original post, this is the 3rd thermostat in this coach. I am curious as to the reason.
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Old 08-28-2007, 06:32 AM   #19
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I'm in the same boat but with one oar.....spent the week with only one compresser running (17 amps) Just went out to the rv and and fussed around with the thermostat, pressed real hard on the switches and what do you know, 28 amps 2 compressors! However, when it cycled on and off, it would only run on one and that's was it. Time for a new thermostat? All voltage at the A/C unit and circuit breakers in order.

Just spoke with Dave at Lightsinn and ordereed a few roof vents and fridge cover vent damaged this weekend in the Adirondaks (70 MPH wind) and took the awning over the roof. Mentioned this forum and the thread and my problem and he tells me that there's a re design on the thermostat. So what the heck $128 and I ordered that too. Like its been said, good to have a
spare.
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Old 09-01-2007, 03:13 AM   #20
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Well In my case, it wasn't the thermostat......got it yesterday, same results. Back to square 1.
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