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Old 02-13-2017, 12:38 PM   #1
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no cold water to shower Journey 39F 2005

We are out for our first excursion with our home since purchasing it last fall. We are now in Texas on our first trip and the whole water system is working fine except we only get hot water to the shower. I took the knob and cover plate off the shower faucet but can't tell anything from doing that. I'm wondering if something may have plugged the cold water side of the shower valve. I'm wondering if I shut off the city water line, open the bathroom sink and kitchen sink cold water faucets and try blowing air back through the shower head line I could possibly clear the blockage?

Any other ideas on what to check would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Dave
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Old 02-13-2017, 01:12 PM   #2
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Shower diverter/faucet cold side is plugged.
You could try clearing blockage with air but more then likely you will need to replace shower diverter/faucet

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...p39f_plumb.pdf

https://winnebagoind.com/product-res...ct-information
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Old 02-13-2017, 03:00 PM   #3
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Yup, had the same issue on our new-to-us '04 Itasca. The available temps in the shower were hot, scalding hot, and depths of h3ll hot! Your coach has the same model shower valve that mine does; the Moen 62300. Replaced the cartridge (from Home Depot, about $35). Also purchased a special tool for pulling the cartridge out for about $15. Might not have been absolutely necessary, but made it very easy to pull the cartridge.
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Old 02-13-2017, 03:38 PM   #4
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OLD-Biscuit and 4x4van thanks for your replies I found the items on the Home Depot web site and will go and get them in the morning.
Again, this site is awesome for resolving issues.


Dave
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Old 02-13-2017, 05:25 PM   #5
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This is very good information here. I'm thinking that since we have the same era coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP, that we must also have the same type of shower valve. I'm wondering, we don't have any issues YET but, if the same symptoms should happen to us while traveling, just how hard is it, or, what IS the procedure for accessing that cartridge and any part of the shower valve?
Scott
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Old 02-13-2017, 05:40 PM   #6
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YouTube has instructional videos on exactly how to change the cartridge. Just did it in my 2011 Tour. Slightly challenging due to a support piece in the wall, but nothing a little ingenuity can't overcome.
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:48 PM   #7
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The special tool (for <$15) to pull the cartridge made it very easy to do.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-Car...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 02-14-2017, 02:21 PM   #8
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Well here's my post-faucet repair update guys. The parts suggested worked perfectly and all is well again now with both hot and cold water. Thanks again for the information on the items needed, it made the project so much easy to get done.

Regarding the question about how hard the project is and what has to be done to access the cartridge:
1. I removed the center cap on the faucet knob using a small flat blade screw driver to pry it off.
2. I removed the screw in the center of the knob and pulled the knob off. FYI, there is a brass washer behind the knob that you want to watch for and not lose.
3. I pulled the plastic assembly the was behind the knob off next. This is two pieces and be cautious to make sure it stays together. The two pieces are splined and need to have the tab at the top in alignment. Figured this out the hard way as I dropped it on the floor and it came apart.
4. There is brass tube the you remove next. This exposes the valve assembly.
5. Remove the brass retaining clip. I grabbed it with a pliers and it slides up and out of the assembly easily.
6. I looked over the removal instructions that came with the cartridge removal tool and followed them step by step. Once the plastic tab comes out and in contact with the removal tool you need to slowly and carefully pull firmly on the tee handle to get the cartridge out. NOTE: There is a H/C labeled on one of the tabs on the cartridge housing. Make note if it's on the top or bottom when removing the cartridge so you know to put the new one in the same way.
7. Install the new cartridge. It comes with a packet of lubricant and instructions on where to use it. As hard as the old one came out I was wondering how I was going to push the new one in but it slid in quite nicely.
8. Now you can reverse the steps taken to get to the cartridge to re-assemble the unit.

Changing this out took about 20 minutes. Sorry I forgot to take pictures.

Dave
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandpadaveB View Post
Well here's my post-faucet repair update guys. The parts suggested worked perfectly and all is well again now with both hot and cold water. Thanks again for the information on the items needed, it made the project so much easy to get done.

Regarding the question about how hard the project is and what has to be done to access the cartridge:
1. I removed the center cap on the faucet knob using a small flat blade screw driver to pry it off.
2. I removed the screw in the center of the knob and pulled the knob off. FYI, there is a brass washer behind the knob that you want to watch for and not lose.
3. I pulled the plastic assembly the was behind the knob off next. This is two pieces and be cautious to make sure it stays together. The two pieces are splined and need to have the tab at the top in alignment. Figured this out the hard way as I dropped it on the floor and it came apart.
4. There is brass tube the you remove next. This exposes the valve assembly.
5. Remove the brass retaining clip. I grabbed it with a pliers and it slides up and out of the assembly easily.
6. I looked over the removal instructions that came with the cartridge removal tool and followed them step by step. Once the plastic tab comes out and in contact with the removal tool you need to slowly and carefully pull firmly on the tee handle to get the cartridge out. NOTE: There is a H/C labeled on one of the tabs on the cartridge housing. Make note if it's on the top or bottom when removing the cartridge so you know to put the new one in the same way.
7. Install the new cartridge. It comes with a packet of lubricant and instructions on where to use it. As hard as the old one came out I was wondering how I was going to push the new one in but it slid in quite nicely.
8. Now you can reverse the steps taken to get to the cartridge to re-assemble the unit.

Changing this out took about 20 minutes. Sorry I forgot to take pictures.

Dave
Dave,
Sorry it took so long for me to get back and answer with a thank you. It's much appreciated. I'm hoping I'll NEVER need those instructions. But, in the event I do, I'll have some guidance.
Scott
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:18 PM   #10
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my shower faucet does not have a shutoff on the sprayer should i replace the sprayer or the whole faucet any suggestions would help
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Old 02-18-2017, 11:38 PM   #11
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You can get a little valve that goes between end of hose and shower head.
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:38 PM   #12
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Couldn't find the tool in Yuma so I used a socket big enough for the replacement to just fit, then with the socket over the old part resting on the piping I used a washer and the screw that held handle on as a puller and it came right out. First time I had this problem an old timer in the park just took a hammer and hit the pipe loosened the sliding gizmo inside and worked for a year or so. Chuck
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