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Old 10-11-2018, 09:44 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by dalton134 View Post
I have 2003 journey the fiber glass roof should not be sealed to the gutter rail the fiberglass roof material needs room to expand and contract what little water seeps in will be carried away on the inner gutter look at your end view picture closely
Advice like that is one sure way to lose your roof.
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:24 PM   #16
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1989 ELANDAN according to Winabego they have no list of what they used, need to redo my roof have a tiny leak back section right where the fiberglass joints the aluminum roof. if you know about elandans the roof is boh glass and aluminumt
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:06 PM   #17
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Check this web site for your needs I'm sure someone there will be able to help you.

https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/

Good luck. If this doesn't work out, you can always move to the desert southwest or Death Valley... Rain? What rain?!
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Old 10-15-2018, 12:49 PM   #18
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Hmmm! I think I may go this direction. I need to seal the roof on my 1987 Sunflyer. I can see separation at the seams in several places. I have no evidence of a problem, per se, but come on. It's Oregon.

I am dreading this job. Regardless of what product I use, of course I will have to remove the old material, right?

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Originally Posted by we_travel View Post
We have a '98 Chieftain &, of course, had the same problem. I used Eternabond Tape on roof seams & end caps 5 years ago & it still looks & seals great! Be sure to clean the seal area well & definitely use the surface prep spray Eternabond sells. Our RV in out in the hot FL sun all day & no problems. BTW, Eternabond was a great company to work with!
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Old 10-15-2018, 12:52 PM   #19
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If it's a big chore, take some pics and contact Eternabond directly, ask them if they have some products that will help with the removal of the old caulking and prep'ing the surface for application of Ebond tape.


I don't think you can go wrong by sealing those seams with Ebond. Providing you prep the surface and apply during a dry warm spell.
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Old 10-16-2018, 05:37 PM   #20
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At least you caught your before the roof flew off! I took a short trip last year (200 miles) When I stopped, I opened my awning and went inside. The next morning, I noticed the entire passenger side of my roof was loose! Sticking straight out instead of tucked into the channel! I tucked it back in and hoped to make it home! After I got home, I found that I should have inspected the sealant 2 times per year! I replaced sealant on both sides. This year I found that the driver's side was cracked and loose, s I re-sealed it. I will keep my eyes on the passenger side, but so far it seems OK.
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:50 PM   #21
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Did you see the recent "Bye Bye Roof" post?

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...ml#post3826302
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:20 PM   #22
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Did you see the recent "Bye Bye Roof" post?

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...ml#post3826302

I did...I'm commenting on it. That's the worse damage to a Winnie roof I've ever seen.
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:19 AM   #23
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The great thing about Eternabond is that removal of the old caulk isn't required. It goes over and around the old caulk. Be sure and use laquer thinner as a cleaner, and knead the tape into the surface of the fiberglass with your fingertips. I have a roller, but still knead it in by hand. I did both sides above the bottom of the gutters so the roof won't blow off, both front and rear caps, and EVERY caulked place in the roof for skylights, pipes, TV antenna, etc. I've done 2 RVs now. I used acetone as a cleaner once and had some lift offs.

The bad thing about silicone is that nothing will stick to it. For caulk, I use 3m 4000 UV. If it never has to come off for any reason, I use 3m5200.
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:09 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalton134 View Post
I have 2003 journey the fiber glass roof should not be sealed to the gutter rail the fiberglass roof material needs room to expand and contract what little water seeps in will be carried away on the inner gutter look at your end view picture closely
Dalton, you are playing with fire.
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Old 11-01-2018, 09:35 AM   #25
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Check this web site for your needs I'm sure someone there will be able to help you.

https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/

Good luck. If this doesn't work out, you can always move to the desert southwest or Death Valley... Rain? What rain?!
Don't use Dicor, use whatever Winnebago specifies for newer motorhomes. The fiberglass/aluminum joint is going to be similar.

Dicor is formulated for rubber roofs, not fiberglass. I don't understand why so many want to ignore Winnebagos specs and run to Dicor. It makes no sense to me.
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Old 11-01-2018, 09:39 AM   #26
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Quote:
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I have 2003 journey the fiber glass roof should not be sealed to the gutter rail the fiberglass roof material needs room to expand and contract what little water seeps in will be carried away on the inner gutter look at your end view picture closely
If this is true, I wonder why Winnebago specifies a sealant for the roof edge? I guess they were mistaken.

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/..._p_sealant.pdf
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