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Old 09-15-2019, 02:31 PM   #1
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House batteries

New house batteries not charging when motor is running
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Old 09-15-2019, 04:32 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Quaterman View Post
New house batteries not charging when motor is running
Well Sir,
First off, it's a common courtesy to post what kind of make/model/year/chassis/engine year coach you have so that others with the same setup, may be able to give you more accurate answers. You can put all that info in a signature that will be pasted to the bottom of all your posts so no one has to go looking for it or, you can just post it along with your question. Not all motorhomes are built the same, nor are all chassis'.

So, this is why it's important to list vital info. As a basic answer to your problem, any number of items can be defective that are involved in the charging of your house batteries. But, diesel coaches are built with different systems vs gas coaches so, answering at this point, may or may not be of value.
Scott
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:40 PM   #3
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Odds are, its the relay/solenoid that connects the chassis battery to the house batteries when the engine is running.

Need to know what year and model MH though.

All Winnebago wiring diagrams are online at https://winnebagoind.com/

Go to "Owner Resources" and select "Winnebago Service" then scroll down to "Self Help Tools" and finally select wiring diagrams (or plumbing, or whatever you need)

Charles
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:57 PM   #4
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House batteries

Thank you for that message. This is my first time ever on any message board. Okay your correct what was I not thinking. Trying to learn. I have a 2008 winnabag outlook 29b. On a Ford e450 chassis all batteries are new 2 for house 1 for cab checked voltage at cab engine running 14 plus volts nothing at house batteries standing voltage 12.7 also power boost switch doesn't work. Oh it's class c I am from NJ living in FL retired. Any input would be appreciated.
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Old 09-16-2019, 10:49 AM   #5
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2008 outlook 29B on a Ford e 450 chassy. Thank you. Dennis
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Old 09-19-2019, 11:25 PM   #6
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Charles: "Odds are, its the relay/solenoid that connects the chassis battery to the house batteries when the engine is running."

What Charles says, Dennis. I'd check that solenoid out and assume it is "guilty until proven innocent". It is often called the "Boost Solenoid" because it will boost a low Ford Battery by "jumping it" to the coach battery ..... to get you started..... that, in addition to the function Charles mentioned.

Your rig should be very much like mine (07 Outlook) as far as location of the solenoid is concerned. Mine is located on the back wall of one of the storage bins (in my case it is the storage bin just aft of the entry door.)

1. Remove the cover plate shown (I hope) in pic 1.....usually if you click on the picture it will enlarge. Turn the fasteners 180 degrees CCW to remove.
2. Behind that cover plate, remove the four screws that hold the 12v ckt brkr mounting plate and swing it out of the way ..... there is ample wire slack.
3. Pic 2 shows both the Boost Solenoid (left) and the coach battery disconnect solenoid (right.) (I have annotated the pictures for other posts in the past.)
4. Pic 4 is a better view of the Boost Solenoid.

Goes w/o saying ........ lotsa power in there and it's pretty tight quarters. Pulling battery grounds before entering is a good idea.

BTW- Charles' tip re wiring diagrams online at the WBGO site is a good one. They are very useful ...... as are the plumbing diagrams, etc.

Good luck with the fix, and safe travels................ ed s
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Old 09-20-2019, 10:02 AM   #7
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Thank you for info. and pics. Any idea what disconnect solenoid does. My set up is some as your pics thanks again. Dennis
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaterman View Post
Thank you for info. and pics. Any idea what disconnect solenoid does. My set up is some as your pics thanks again. Dennis
Re the disconnect solenoid.

Its purpose is to disconnect the coach batteries. Particularly useful when you are going to store the rig or just be away for a few days ...... with no shore power connected. Otherwise, when no shore power to charge the coach batteries (via the converter) the coach batteries will eventually be drained by "phantom" loads and others; e.g., the propane detector. On our coaches, the Onan also receives its 12v from this solenoid .... so when it fails to make contact (when cycled to on) you cannot start your genny. Some folks (like me) carry a pre-made jumper to connect the i2v "in" lug and the 12v "Out" lugs together as a "field expedient" should the solenoid fail when out on the road (but then I'm one of those nuts that worries about the nat'l debt. lol)

It is not involved with charging the coach batteries from the Ford alternator..... but the boost solenoid on the left is.

Pls post back when you get the problem mentioned in your original post fixed. It helps ......... we are all continually learnin'.
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Old 09-21-2019, 08:30 PM   #9
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note the battery disconnect solenoid, the one with the black top, is turned on and off by the "salesman's switch" at the coach door entrance. It has two fuses in the top of it to protect the low amp operating circuits for it. It is rare that they blow, but worth checking. Also, the power converter will not charge the house/coach batteries from shore power or generator unless the house/coach batteries are switched on. The converter will operate the lights, etc, but not charge the batteries. Best to leave the salesmans switch on most all the time unless in dead storage.

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Old 09-21-2019, 08:43 PM   #10
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You most likely have a bad coach/house charge/boost solenoid. Extremely common problem. This solenoid allows the engine to charge the house batteries when the engine is running, and if you have a dead chassis battery, you can use the "boost" switch on the dash to "jump start" the engine.

The WBO installed solenoids are cheap 80 amp rated and the contacts burn up real quick. it will need replacing and then you will be seeing the same voltage on the chassis and house batteries with the engine running.

Read these other threads about the same issue.

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...id-355456.html

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...es-355502.html

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...lp-355355.html

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Old 09-23-2019, 06:23 AM   #11
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Before getting to complicated check the bypass switch which some refer to as the salesman switch since its easily bumped disconnecting the house batteries and preventing a charge. If the old house batteries were bad its also not uncommon to have the 50 amp or so pop-up trip during charging so that may simply need to be reset.

Also note that the house batteries may not start to charge until after the chassis batteries are close to full charge. The engine computers on the Fords can get pretty messed up if battery charge is not high enough and may even start to backfire and buck which is not a good thing on the V10 powered coaches.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:46 PM   #12
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WBO tends to use the same tried and true wiring methods on most of their models. I have looked at wiring diagrams for several different Class C models, my View and different Ford chassis models (in the course of internet troubleshooting) and find that WBO is consistent in that the wire that activates the charge/boost solenoid (silver one) is always labeled LR, and that the wiring is such that the Ford or Mercedes alternator will charge the house/coach batteries, NO MATTER if the house/coach battery disconnect relay is open/off or closed/on. This allows the engine to be "jump started" without having to first turn on the house/coach batteries at the "salesmans switch".

Note however, the power converter WILL NOT charge the house batteries unless the house/coach battery disconnect relay is ON/Closed.

Also, the salesmans switch is a MOMENTARY switch, spring loaded to a center off position. When you push it either on, or off, you are merely sending current thru one of two wires to either of the coils in the house/coach battery disconnect relay (black top). The power, either to the on coil, or the off coil, pulls the contacts in the appropriate direction and a mechanical spring loaded over center mechanism holds it in the position it has moved to. When you release the "salesmans switch" all current is removed, but the disconnect relay stays in the commanded position due to the spring loaded over center mechanism inside it. Thus it is not drawing current to keep the batteries off or on.

Sorry if this is wordy, just wanted to be clear and consistent with terminology and function.

Also, the OEM Trombetta boost solenoid has rather long terminals with lots of room for the wires, nuts, and lock washers. The Cole Hersee 24213, while an excellent replacement, has shorter terminals that make getting all of the wires and the nut on, difficult. You may end up using a thin star lock washer in the place of the provided thick split lock washer, and when you are done, you will not have any thread on stud showing past the nut. Wished C-H put a little more terminal on the solenoid.

Ed, in post #6 has done an excellent job of labeling the various components and wires in the pics he posted.

Charles
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:20 AM   #13
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Thanks for all the info. Maybe this weekend I'll replace solenoid. Back is hurting. Will keep you posted.
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:34 AM   #14
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We have had a similar problem and I found that a fuse blew in the panel under our dash. It is a 15 amp fuse and once replaced, the coach batteries begin charging again when the engine running.
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:14 PM   #15
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Well finally got to work on battery solenoid installed new one in place started motor dhouse batteries now charging. Thanks to all for your input and info (pics) problem solved. Now know where to go for help first time going to forum it works. Dennis
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Well finally got to work on battery solenoid installed new one in place started motor dhouse batteries now charging. Thanks to all for your input and info (pics) problem solved. Now know where to go for help first time going to forum it works. Dennis
Thanks for closing things off. Often we never know if our advice solved the problem or not.

You're now an expert on this particular problem and can be the first to help the next poster whose house batteries aren't charging when the engine is running.
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