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Old 10-11-2007, 02:59 PM   #1
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I had noticed this problem in the past, but as we rarely drive after dark I had forgotten about it until recently. After driving for long periods of time (2 hrs plus) with the headlights on the switch becomes very hot to the touch. I can't find any evidence of burned insulation on the wires and the connections look good. Anyone have any suggestions about this?
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Old 10-11-2007, 02:59 PM   #2
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I had noticed this problem in the past, but as we rarely drive after dark I had forgotten about it until recently. After driving for long periods of time (2 hrs plus) with the headlights on the switch becomes very hot to the touch. I can't find any evidence of burned insulation on the wires and the connections look good. Anyone have any suggestions about this?
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Old 10-11-2007, 04:06 PM   #3
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I never noticed, I'll have to check it out the next time I drive in the dark.
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Old 10-11-2007, 05:46 PM   #4
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I had the same thing on a 99 Suncruiser. It would actually melt the plastic on the fuze, but never blow it.

I knocked that section out and replaced with a separate in line fuze. Have not had any trouble since. That was 6-7 years ago.
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:59 AM   #5
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We had that problem on a 96 Luxor. It actually melted the switch and generated smoke when we were driving down the hi-way. I resulted from poor contact around the switch contacts. Clean the contacts and apply a dielectric grease and the problem should go away.
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Old 10-12-2007, 04:22 PM   #6
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Thank you all for your replies. The fuses are just fine, the heat is at the switch location. I will remove and clean the contacts and see if that makes a difference. It has not gotten hot enough to melt anything. It just seems hotter than it should be after using the lights.
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:48 PM   #7
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Tom, on my Discovery they used a Ford pickup truck light switch. It got hot too. The guys on the Discovery list took the switch out, went to Napa, and they were able to find an upgrade switch with the same plug in and a much higher amp rating. Other guys just wired in a relay.

It's worth a shot.
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Old 10-13-2007, 06:55 PM   #8
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Thanks DonovanP, it might be worth a shot.
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:08 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kazoo Tom:
Thanks DonovanP, it might be worth a shot. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>An external relay is really the best option since there is almost zero load across the switch. And, installed correctly will get you way better illumination due to vary low voltage drop. There are a few threads around about this, and the popular solution is a contactor relay.
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Old 10-15-2007, 10:21 AM   #10
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Boy is this embarassing....

Someone sent me a PM regarding this thread (at least I read it that far), and it completely disappeared when I brushed my finger across the touch pad!
It's not in New, not in Deleted, not in recently Deleted, not in Spam, and it's not Archived. Can you sent it again please?

I'll go stand in the corner now..
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Old 10-16-2007, 01:38 AM   #11
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I read your response regarding installing an external relay switch. I have replaced my light switch twice on my 2003 Suncruiser, Workhorse w/Chev. Vortex. I contacted Winnebago regarding the switch with no real help from them. Should I look for a specific type of expertise to have this external relay switch installed or would this be something most any RV shop could handle. Any info you could furnish regarding this would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-17-2007, 12:58 PM   #12
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I doubt the factory will assist on this since it's somewhat an admission on their part that the switch design is questionable. I would think that any shop smart enough to crimp wires could handle it. This is a standard HD relay used for off-road driving lights available at Pep-Boys, Auto Zone, and I'm sure any on-line off road shop. Find something around 30A and you will never have a failure of these contacts due to headlight loading.

There have been several discussions about this over on RV.net, and several night drivers and general light freaks have made this conversion. This is a really easy mod that takes 4 wires, some crimping, and a fuse!. Going to the battery directly could easily pick up a few lost volts turned into heat in the dash switch. There is no reason to cut the existing lamp connector on this. Simply splice the coil control to the +12 meant for the headlight and you're good.

If you intend to do Hi-Beams as well, you will have to do this twice. But again, no big deal.
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