Energy Command 30 Installation

arkaussie · 02-16-2007, 05:55 PM

I have just bought a EC30 and will install it when the weather warms up as I have to go to NY next week for our summer job.

I have read everything I can find on this site and it is very helpful. I have an idea and a question and was hoping to get some feedback.

My idea is for the "AC present" circuit. I was thinking I would get a small 110v to 12v transformer and wire it to the shore power connection in the transfer switch box and use the 12v to feed the EC30. That way any 120v from the generator or the inverter would not be "seen."

My other problem is the safety input source. I was searching the Freightliner wiring diags. to see if I could save running a wire to the dash area. There are a couple of Ign wires running thru the chassis, one goes to the large engine harness connection and the others I would have to find as the diags are not that clear (to me)

The other possibility is the Air Dryer heater which I imagine would only be on when the ignition is on and I think it is in the area of the rear axle. This might be a safer source and would never be construded to have affected any of the computer circuits.

I guess I have a busy summer coming up:-
Install the EC30.
Do the second change on the tranny for the Transynd conversion.
Change engine oil.
Dismantle front door to add some form of padding between the outer skin and the frame which now rattles.
Replace the plastic stop for the door hold open.
Install full extension drawer slides.
Insulate the outside of the entry steps.
Insulate the water bay.
Install joey bed for my tool box.

Thanks in advance,

arkaussie · 02-16-2007, 05:55 PM

I have just bought a EC30 and will install it when the weather warms up as I have to go to NY next week for our summer job.

I have read everything I can find on this site and it is very helpful. I have an idea and a question and was hoping to get some feedback.

My idea is for the "AC present" circuit. I was thinking I would get a small 110v to 12v transformer and wire it to the shore power connection in the transfer switch box and use the 12v to feed the EC30. That way any 120v from the generator or the inverter would not be "seen."

My other problem is the safety input source. I was searching the Freightliner wiring diags. to see if I could save running a wire to the dash area. There are a couple of Ign wires running thru the chassis, one goes to the large engine harness connection and the others I would have to find as the diags are not that clear (to me)

The other possibility is the Air Dryer heater which I imagine would only be on when the ignition is on and I think it is in the area of the rear axle. This might be a safer source and would never be construded to have affected any of the computer circuits.

I guess I have a busy summer coming up:-
Install the EC30.
Do the second change on the tranny for the Transynd conversion.
Change engine oil.
Dismantle front door to add some form of padding between the outer skin and the frame which now rattles.
Replace the plastic stop for the door hold open.
Install full extension drawer slides.
Insulate the outside of the entry steps.
Insulate the water bay.
Install joey bed for my tool box.

Thanks in advance,

Md shedman · 02-17-2007, 05:12 AM

You can use the washer-dryer outlet to note if there is shore power because that is not hooked into your inverter. For the safty "thing" I use the brake lights and hooked up to them on the wiring harness.
Good luck

I use ours a lot, it is money well spent!!!

peter griffin · 02-17-2007, 05:24 AM

Here is my two cents ...diesels ec 30 are wired different then the gas...(they look very similiar) ....as to save wires to a switch to the dash..this is what i did. i used a switch which i installed in a location next to the ec 30. I always leave it off until the unit calls for the safety check. i then turn it on and shut it off immediately...this allows the ec 30 to run. onan does not suggest that you do it this way. they want you to put it on the ignition because if you get fuel the ec30 cant start...and maybe cause a fire.

in regards to the hair dryer...the safety is 12v not 110..i would not use it...

the problem with the igntion for me is that if im dry camping and then the ec30 kicks on...then i go to move the rv (hunting) the ec 30 will shut off..(becasue it sees a change in power) and then my ac will shut off can't have that surge...or loss of a/c..

Also I did not hook up the shore power...i do not need it...I might get to it one day...you only need it if you are plugged in and plan on setting the EC30 to auto mode just in case there is power loss at the rv park and you still want to have a/c or heat pumps come on ....or if you always leave your ec30 in auto...i dont...only time i usually leave the ec30 to auto is when I am not pluggged in and sleeping for the heaters and ac or if i leave and set the thermostat to cool ...or watching tv for long periods so it wont go out...

As for the transformer I think under the bathroom sink in my rv would be a good place there is a outlet box and a space under the bottom shelf..

hope this helps...send me a privat message if you want me to call you to go over it.

Best piece of equipment I everr bought!

Good luck

Cruzer · 02-17-2007, 06:02 AM

Tiffin installs a small 120-to-12 volt transformer with their Onan EC-30 option. Mine is installed right on the automatic transfer switch. It is an Onan part and it's a simple installation. AS to the safety input, you can use a number of them as the EC-30 is programmable. If you don't want to run up to the dash you can probably pick up the ignition "key on" signal back at your charge solenoid because it get's a hot trigger signal wnever the key is on.

arkaussie · 02-17-2007, 06:33 AM

Thanks for the support and help.

Actually Peter I asked about the Air dryer not the Hair dryer. I really don't want anymore things to remember so I'm wanting to do the install with the safety. Thanks for the offer to call, I may need it when I get into the project later.

Mark has a great idea to use the 12V signal at the charge solenoid as it will keep it out of the chassis wiring.

I had another thought which I haven't researched yet but will put it to you anyway. The EC30 has multiple HVAC inputs so I was thinking of using one for cool and one for heat because we do travel in the cold and Flying J does not have hooksups.

arkaussie · 10-23-2007, 02:02 PM

Finally got my EC30 finished and everything works now. Had to run a wire to the front for the #6 status wire as it would not run correctly without it. I connected my heat pump wire to the HVAC line 2 and that works also. This gives me auto start for heat or cool I connected my safety switch to the solenoid in the elect bay. Now it is all done by the book and when I leave here late Nov we will be all set for our Flying J overnight stops.