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Old 12-14-2009, 02:01 PM   #1
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Converter replacement

I have a Parallax Model 7455 Converter/Battery Charger installed in my '04 Meridian, and although it operates well, I find that my coach batteries are boiling over, causing a mess in the battery tray. Even though the brochure states, and Parallax insists that the charger will not overcharge the batteries, I find that I must check the water at least every two weeks, or they will boil dry - far too often in my opinion.

I am convinced that I need a new converter/charger with "smart" electronics that will maintain a float charge without overcharging the batteries. My current converter is rated at 975 watts, and am asking what is a good replacement for my Parallax?


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Old 12-14-2009, 04:50 PM   #2
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I had the same converter. It did not boil the batteries. Worked fine until it went up in smoke. I replaced it with the Intelli verter which seems to work fine. Got it off Ebay, about $130 delivered. I have since repaired the Parallax-I had to replace a MOV (metal oxide varistor) that had exploded. ($2.00) Now I have a backup.
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:35 PM   #3
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I had the same problem with the Parallax 7455T and swapped it out for an Intellipower PD9260 with the Charge Wizard. Simple job to change it out and it works as advertised. I still need to check battery water regularly though. Add water about once a month.
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:13 PM   #4
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Just like "Fleetman", I had the same problem with the Parallax 7455T and swapped it out for an Intellipower PD9260 with the Charge Wizard. Simple job to change it out and it works as advertised. I replaced my batteries with AGM's at the same time. I haven't had a problem with the house batteries since.
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:06 AM   #5
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I had the same problem with the mess in the battery compartment and the often water refill of the batteries. I fixed it for a couple of bucks by putting about 1-2oz of mineral oil in each cell. Edison sold battery oil for this purpose and it was mineral oil. Not sure if my problem was as bad as the above posts but my batteries have been great with no maintenance or mess in 4 months and 5,000 miles of travel. Greg
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Old 04-11-2010, 06:48 AM   #6
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Question overcharging of house battries

We have a 2005 Gulfstream Conquest Super C. We are having a problem with batteries overcharging-boiling water out of house batteries. Replaced both batteries in 2009. Still having the same problem. This occurs while it is in storage and plugged into power cord. Any suggestions on this.
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:39 AM   #7
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We have a 2005 Gulfstream Conquest Super C. We are having a problem with batteries overcharging-boiling water out of house batteries. Replaced both batteries in 2009. Still having the same problem. This occurs while it is in storage and plugged into power cord. Any suggestions on this.
First I would like to welcome you to iRV2. I would like to encourage you to go up to the New Member Check In and introduce yourself so more of our members get to know you.

I had the same problem with a 97 Adventure. I installed new batteries and added 2 oz mineral oil to each cell in the coach batteries. It almost eliminated the acid build up and the loss of water. I did the same thing with my current Chieftain and only have to add a small amount of water a couple of times a year.

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Old 04-11-2010, 07:40 AM   #8
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First, seeing that this is your first post, welcome to the forum! We're glad to have you join us.

Your problem is likely the same as has been discussed on this thread - you have a crude, single stage converter that's overcharging your batteries. The solution is to either use a multistage battery charger to keep your batteries charged during storage or, as has been discussed above, swap out your converter for a sophisticated 3 or 4 stage converter such as the Progressive Dynamics Intellipower 9200 series. The Progressive Dynamics converter provides a boost, normal, float and desulfation mode based upon your batteries' specific requirements at any given time.

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Old 04-11-2010, 08:21 AM   #9
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I had the same problem with batteries constantly boiling over. Last October I contacted Best Converter and ordered a PD 9260 converter (this is the same converter as listed in the message above). The cost including shipping was about $239. It was a snap to install. Since then the boiling over problem is gone and the batteries only need a small amount of water occasionally.
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Old 04-11-2010, 01:15 PM   #10
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engine batteries

May not be quite on subject but my engine batteries will drain within a week if I don't plug into power and use the Battery Minder. I store the motor home inside without power so I know the batteries will be dead within a week unless I start the engine to charge them before they die. Is there something out there that doesn't need 110v that will trickle charge my engine batteries. I have solar power for the coach batteries but storing the motor home indoors doesn't help so I disconnect when I store.
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Old 04-11-2010, 09:25 PM   #11
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JBroadway, when storing with no electrical power available, you should make use of both house and chassis battery disconnects to minimize the current draw on each set of batteries. Your owners manual should explain it and show you where the disconnect switches are located. On ours, house disconnect is on the dash, engine battery disconnect is in the back - accessed through the engine grill.
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Old 04-12-2010, 06:43 AM   #12
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I will describe two plus ways the best converter in the world can boil batteries
(I am not sure of the plus)

1: The converters are designed to charge 12 volt batteries.. NOT 10 or 8 volt batteries.. If the battery fails in the "Shorted Cell" mode, then the converter will overcharge the remaining cells and cause them to boil.. This is not the converter's fault.

2: If the converter fails it can either 2a: Refuse to charge or 2b: Keep on charging way past the shut off point (I call that loosing it's mind) So you may indeed have a bad converter

How do you tell the difference? Good quality digital voltmeter of course. Post the reading, and the experts here will tell you.. HINT 16 volts bad converter 12 volts bad battery Those are extremes though the actually decision point is lower or higher


The PLUS... I'm not sure on this one

Xantrex recommends a max charge rate of around 30% capacity.. That is if you have a battery with a 100 amp hour rating at the 20 hour rate.. You should charge at no more than 30 amps

Now imagine you have that 100 amp hour battery.. and my PDI 9180 with wizard

80 amps is ... Well... A bit fast... and I'm not sure if that will boil them or not.. It will damage them, that is for sure.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:19 AM   #13
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My question is Kind of off subject but the topic has been mentioned twice in this thread. Don and Greg stated they add 1-2 oz of mineral oil to each cell and this apparently results in a significant reduction in water loss. I've never heard of this before and I'm interested in more details and info.

Six months ago I purchased new batteries and typically add water about once every 2 or 3 months. I certainly don't want to damage the batteries or shorten there life. Can anyone explain what the chemical reaction is, or provide a more technical detail of why mineral oil reduces water loss?

As I recall from my high school chemistry class there is a chemical reaction between the lead and hydrochloric acid that frees electrons producing electricity and changes the lead to lead sulfate and changes the hydrochloric acid to water. Charging basically reverses this process.

Does the mineral oil modify or otherwise change this chemical reaction or does it change efficiency? Are there any other side affects like shorter life, or less capacity, or , or??? Is there any known damage, or does the mineral oil leave any deposits on the lead plate surfaces?
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBroadaway View Post
May not be quite on subject but my engine batteries will drain within a week if I don't plug into power and use the Battery Minder. I store the motor home inside without power so I know the batteries will be dead within a week unless I start the engine to charge them before they die. Is there something out there that doesn't need 110v that will trickle charge my engine batteries. I have solar power for the coach batteries but storing the motor home indoors doesn't help so I disconnect when I store.
Coaches of your vintage had a lot of problems like you describe. Winnebago's fix was the disconnects and a device called a Trik L Start. It charges the chassis batteries from the house batteries. The problem is that they installed it so that it is disconnected when the house batteries are disconnected. If you move the power source to the other side of the disconnect solonoid, I think that your problem will be solved.

That is how I installed one on my coach, but I don't have a chassis battery disconnect.

Another solution would be to move the Trik L Start from the front electrical panel to the battery racks and make a direct connection there.
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:45 AM   #15
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wa8yxm, Thanks for that info. I will certainly check with a volt meter. That does make sense. Thanks again, dedoe
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadking View Post
My question is Kind of off subject but the topic has been mentioned twice in this thread. Don and Greg stated they add 1-2 oz of mineral oil to each cell and this apparently results in a significant reduction in water loss. I've never heard of this before and I'm interested in more details and info.

Six months ago I purchased new batteries and typically add water about once every 2 or 3 months. I certainly don't want to damage the batteries or shorten there life. Can anyone explain what the chemical reaction is, or provide a more technical detail of why mineral oil reduces water loss?

As I recall from my high school chemistry class there is a chemical reaction between the lead and hydrochloric acid that frees electrons producing electricity and changes the lead to lead sulfate and changes the hydrochloric acid to water. Charging basically reverses this process.

Does the mineral oil modify or otherwise change this chemical reaction or does it change efficiency? Are there any other side affects like shorter life, or less capacity, or , or??? Is there any known damage, or does the mineral oil leave any deposits on the lead plate surfaces?

It is my understanding the mineral oil simply floats on top of the battery water and prevents it from excessively out gassing which causes the corrosion and evaporation of battery water. Edison sold battery oil (i.e., mineral oil) long ago. Google Edison battery oil and you get a lot of info. Greg
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:14 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Roadking View Post
My question is Kind of off subject but the topic has been mentioned twice in this thread. Don and Greg stated they add 1-2 oz of mineral oil to each cell and this apparently results in a significant reduction in water loss. I've never heard of this before and I'm interested in more details and info.

Does the mineral oil modify or otherwise change this chemical reaction or does it change efficiency? Are there any other side affects like shorter life, or less capacity, or , or??? Is there any known damage, or does the mineral oil leave any deposits on the lead plate surfaces?
Greg has explained it pretty well. I did some research on it and found the railroads were avid users of it in their batteries in the days they used Cabooses. I have been using it for years as have friends of mine. It does not damage the batteries unless you let the water get so low that the oil gets on the plates. It just eliminates the gassing into the atmosphere which minimizes water loss and corrosion.

Don
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:19 AM   #18
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I have looked front and back for a engine battery disconnect and have not found it. As stated earlier I use a Battery Minder hooked up to 110v so don't have a problem until I park it indoors. Won't trik L Start drain my house batteries if I use it indoors since my solar panel won't work? Seems like I'm destined to starting the m/home at lease once a week while in storage.
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:52 AM   #19
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Good topic. I replaced the house batteries in my '04 and the tray was a mess. I replaced the 12 volt with 4- six volt and added this oil, tray good and dry, still using the original converter.
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Old 04-14-2010, 10:02 AM   #20
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JB. There are basically two types of battery disconnects.. Direct and Remote

Now if you have a direct.. Then you likely know where it is as you physically operate the disconnnect (A Knife switch is an example of such a device or the battery terminal with the quick disconnect knob on it)

A remote is where you have a small toggle or rocker switch and you press it one way to connect and another to disconnect

When you toggle or rock this switch.. you (or perhaps your partner) should hear a CLUNK somewhere in the coach

Mine is a gasser and CLUNKS up in front, under the "hood"

Some CLUNK in the battery compartment area

Some ... Well you could put that CLUNKer most anywhere.

That's the disconnect solenoid making that CLUNK
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