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Old 11-11-2007, 05:49 PM   #1
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Here is the Winnebago data on sidewall to roof seam caulking. It should be useful to anyone who attempts this project.

Winnie Roof/Sidewall Caulking
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:25 PM   #2
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The link will not work for me. Could you check it please.

I did my own resealing last year and this year everything seems to be OK.
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:28 PM   #3
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Thanks for the post. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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Old 11-12-2007, 02:37 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by arkaussie:
The link will not work for me. Could you check it please.

I did my own resealing last year and this year everything seems to be OK.
It's a good link.
Thanks for researching this Rex.
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Old 11-12-2007, 03:32 AM   #5
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This is a good diagram for those that are wondering what exactly the strip of caulk is "sealing" down the side walls, and how much the sidewall overhang goes over the sidewalls.

It might be good for those about to put on eternabond patch tape down this sidwall edge instead of doing a nice bead of caulking.

Thanks for sending it!
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:10 PM   #6
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I am confused...I have read too many posts on this subject...so if the caulking fails...does it leak because of a plugged weep hole or because of the caulk and build up of rain water?
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:42 PM   #7
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LK23, Thanks for posting this link. Others have posted similar drawings but the quality was poor. This one is the best I've seen.
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:53 PM   #8
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I am confused...I have read too many posts on this subject...so if the caulking fails...does it leak because of a plugged weep hole or because of the caulk and build up of rain water?

Heres an old post I found from this forum around 2003 0r 2004:

With regard to the 10 year original owner warranty, yes it's a shame it's not transferable, but I doubt anybody really has any warranty replacement during that 10 years anyway. Did you know that the warranty is only on failure of the fiberglass material itself, and not on the integrity of the completed roof? That's right, if the material failed (delaminated or whatever), they would replace that roof panel, but we'd still have to pay for the labor after the first year. And the warranty does not cover sealants, so that's a moot point anyway.

Do you know how your roof is actually made, and what holds it on? I am not being a smart A$$ here. Many people have heard so many stories flying around on the internet that they "know" they must be true.

Even without ANY sealant ever applied to the roof to J channel, your roof will not blow off, and it will not leak. That is by design. The roof is bonded to the supporting structure over the entire flat area. If water leaks into the J channel, it cannot enter the interior of the walls structure. See attached drawing at http://www.qrents.com/images/roof2wall.jpg. The J channel adhesive retains the edge of the fiberglass roof panel in the J, so if a VERY strong gust of wind hit the motor home from the side, it would not be "flipped" out of that channel.

Some people have put an end to the roof inspections but applying EternBond. I've never used it one any of the 3 Winnebago class A's that I had, but I hear it is a great product. If it holds up as they claim, it should be more or less permanent. The part number that I posted earlier is the correct material for unpainted WI roof to sidewall joints. It is their latest (2002) information and I would venture so far as to say some of those guys at WI customer service haven't read it themselves, and are saying use silicone. I wouldn't use silicone. Silicone sealant is not a very good adhesive, and should not be used for the roof. An elastomeric adhesive/sealant, which is an excellent adhesive, is what you need. If applied to clean and dry surfaces, it will bond tenaciously for years, and your 6 month inspection will only serve to reassure that all is well. There is also another product, made by 3M, and found in boating supply store and Home Depot and Lowes, called 5200, that I would use as a substitute. It is bright white, and when cured, is permanent. It will even cure under water.

I like WI motor homes, even with their inspection requirements. Overall, I think they are a good design, well build, and provide reliability and longevity. All things considered, I still think they beat the others for the money.

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Old 11-12-2007, 01:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by peter griffin:
I am confused...I have read too many posts on this subject...so if the caulking fails...does it leak because of a plugged weep hole or because of the caulk and build up of rain water?
Peter, there is virtually no chance of leakage at this area as you can tell by the diagram the thin fiberglass sheathing is pulled over the rolled edge of the roof (not glued on this rolled edge), and it overlaps the sidewalls about an inch and then the Gutter railing is screwed to this overlapment. So, the only way for moisture to get into the sidewall, is UP AND OVER this overlapment.

I believe the reason for the bead of caulk is to route the water in the gutter so it will drain at the end of the gutter as so to keep the overlapment dry to minimize water intrusion.

In my opinion, people run a 4" wide strip of eternabond down this length of the gutter so they won't need to monitor the caulk status.

Statement from an above post:
Even without ANY sealant ever applied to the roof to J channel, your roof will not blow off, and it will not leak. That is by design. The roof is bonded to the supporting structure over the entire flat area. If water leaks into the J channel, it cannot enter the interior of the walls structure. The J channel adhesive retains the edge of the fiberglass roof panel in the J, so if a VERY strong gust of wind hit the motor home from the side, it would not be "flipped" out of that channel.

That is a good statement, and to add, it would have to be a BIG gust of wind to pull the thin overhanging fiberglass out of the gutter rail/J channel as the gutter rail is screwed every few inches.

So...if there are voids in the caulk...no biggie....just peal OLD caulk off and re-apply a bead

P.S. I have witnessed a complete roof replacement.
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:34 AM   #10
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thanks. I have decided to just put the eternabond on the front and rear cap and just inspect the weep holes.
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