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Old 04-24-2007, 01:48 PM   #1
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does the oddometer run when you tow 4 wheels down with a new(2007),4wd chevy silverado
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Old 04-24-2007, 01:48 PM   #2
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does the oddometer run when you tow 4 wheels down with a new(2007),4wd chevy silverado
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Old 04-24-2007, 01:50 PM   #3
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My 2007 Tahoe doesn't register mileage when being towed 4 down with the transfer case in neutral.

I suspect the Silverado will be the same.

Don
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Old 04-24-2007, 02:19 PM   #4
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i guess if the transmisson isnt turning it wont reg. i was just looking at the sticker and it says gvw is 7000. do you think thats a miss print?
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Old 04-24-2007, 03:31 PM   #5
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jdsr,

7000 may be the GVWR... my 4X4 GMC is 4700 per the brochure and that seems more realistic.
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Old 04-24-2007, 04:34 PM   #6
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I believe that when I remove the fuses in order to tow, I don't rack up mileage. If I leave the fuses in, I rack up mileage. H ven't tried it yet though. I always remove the fuses!
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:16 PM   #7
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I tow an 2001 Chevy Blazer. If I forget to remove the (2) fuses I will register mileage
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:45 PM   #8
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I tow a 2001 Jimmy

I have towed it for three days with two fuses pulled ... with my brake buddy ... no miles and battery was still UP ...

I towed it for ONE day with fuses in ... the battery was DEAD at the end of the day ...

There must be a significant draw when the switch is on and those two fuses are in ...
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:00 PM   #9
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What fuses are you pulling? Just set up a 2007 Colorado as a toad have not pulled it yet.
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:06 PM   #10
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2006 Silverado:: No need to pull fuses as key is off and removed. Look at the owners manual.
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Old 04-24-2007, 08:15 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Vet Man:
What fuses are you pulling? Just set up a 2007 Colorado as a toad have not pulled it yet. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No need to pull a fuse from the Colorado. We had a 2004 and as long as the transfer case is in Neutral it doesn't record any mileage.

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Old 04-25-2007, 08:11 AM   #12
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if you pull the keys, wont that lock the steering wheel. i thought it needed to be unlocked
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:38 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">if you pull the keys, wont that lock the steering wheel. i thought it needed to be unlocked </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

2004 and later GM trucks no longer lock the steering wheel when the key is removed.
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:46 AM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jdsr:
if you pull the keys, wont that lock the steering wheel. i thought it needed to be unlocked </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Nice thing is being able to take out the key.
Also, some of the instructions are not correct. My Tahoe manual has two sets for putting the transfer case in Neutral. One right and one wrong. My Colorado only had one set - the wrong one.

You put the TRANSMISSION in Neutral when you turn the TRANSFER CASE to Neutral. Putting is PARK like they say in one section of the Tahoe and in the Colorado doesn't allow the TC to go into N.

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Old 04-25-2007, 05:49 PM   #15
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Shadow,

Sooooo..... what is your proceedure prior to towing?
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Old 04-26-2007, 05:09 AM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Howard Leap:
Shadow,

Sooooo..... what is your proceedure prior to towing? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Insert the sleves into the baseplates.

Lineup the Tahoe with the center of the MH and make sure I'm at the right distance to connect the two bar arms to the baseplates.

Connect the arms to the baseplates (we have locking pins and also have a lock on the towbar).

Connect the breakaway safety cables to the MH and Tahoe.

Connect the Brake Buddy cable to the MH and the breakaway box installed on the Tahoe.

Raise hood and take out electrical wire for Blue Ox LightBar (LightBar fits into Tahoe receiver - needed a 7 inch extension since fit was too tight and it scratched the paint on the back. Will be adding locking pins to both extension and LightBar).

The LB has a 4 wire cable that runs under the Tahoe to the engine compartment. I put a 4 pin connector on the end. The 7 pin that goes into the MH as a 4 wire 4 pin (the other have of the connector set I bought) and the two 4 pins connect together. The 7 pin connector doesn't remain under the hood when the Tahoe is disconnected from the MH.

Then, get in the Tahoe, put the parking brake on. Start it, turn it off and leave ignition in on with transmission in N. Then, turn transfer case switch to N. In about 10 seconds the light goes solid red (if the transmission is in P the light just keeps flashing - same thing happened on Colorado).

Then, run engine and put transmission in drive and reverse for s second each and no movement means transfer case is in N properly.

Turn off engine, put transmission in Park, remove key. Take emergency brake OFF.

Insert Brake Buddy and connect cables and insert power cord into 12V outlet. When pressure to 75 we test it 3 times to take the vacuum out of the brakes and to make sure it works properly. A difference between the Taheo and Colorado is that the brake lights of the Tahoe do not come on when the ignition is off and key removed. BUT, when I brake in the MH the brake lights on the LightBar come on.

Get in MH and have DW at rear. Run through light check.

When we pull away, DW follows outside with walkie talkie to make sure tow bar arms extend and lock properly and wheels of Tahoe moving freely and that they turn properly (had one experience where one arm of the BlueOx Aventa II did not lock and she missed it and the Colorado swung all over - so now she watches with an eagle eye).

Just came back from Florida with first Tahoe tow experience and it seems to have worked perfectly. 1400 miles and no problems. Had pull through spots for 3 nights and didn't disconnect Tahoe at all. I did remove the Brake Buddy power cord each night and put it back the next morning and test the BB.

After disconnecting we put the transmission in Neutral (with emerg brake on) and then with the ignition on but engine not running turn the transfer case dial to 2wd and it nicely sifts with very little noise (Colorado was very noisy when taking transfer case out of N).

So, unless I've forgotten something, that's it. DW has a checklist she looks at to make sure I haven't missed anything.

Don
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Old 04-26-2007, 05:28 AM   #17
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Thanks Don! Informative writeup....

I was really just interested in the step by step setup for the toad, but some of the other parts of your routine made me rethink about what we do to get ready to tow. And thats a good thing!

Howard
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Old 04-26-2007, 08:07 AM   #18
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Howard, when one looks at all the things that have to be done to connect, it is no wonder it is easy to miss one. We did twice (different occasions thankfully) - left the emergency brake on the Colorado for a short distance from the house and the incident with the tow bar arm not locking. Very lucky I suddenly remembered the brake was still on.

DW thinks I feel she is bugging me with her checklist (which I prepsred when we first started towing), but I actually appreciate it.

Don
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Old 04-26-2007, 03:24 PM   #19
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My previous toad was a 2006 Silverado 4x4 4door and it's empty weight was 5,400 lbs.

Follow the instructions in the Owners Manual and you can't go wrong.

My Silverado had no fuses to pull and I think the key was in the ignition but, in the Off position..but, I may have been able to pull it out, too (58 and the memory is going LOL)

Running down the battery with my Blue Apollo Aux Brake was never an issue.

My Journey DL pulled the weight just fine, I don't know the weight limits on your motorhome.
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:50 PM   #20
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howard, did you install your baseplate yet. jdsr
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