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Old 07-26-2012, 12:33 PM   #1
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Rust treatment advice please

Getting geared up to start the next project: cleaning and coating the rust on the vertical black panels behind my bay doors between the bays.

Have a lot of spots where the Winnebago black has flaked off, surface rust obvious underneath. Two years ago tried wire brush/scraping and primer and Rust-O-Leum. Lasted about two years, now flaking off again.

So, ready to try a bit more aggresive approach. No, having a pro sandblast/prime/paint is not in the budget, needs to be do-it-myself. Surfing here and elsewhere has led me to two products... POR 15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

Like everything else on the web, I'm finding people who love and hate each product. Pros and cons for each, videos on both, both "lab tested" of course with all the docs from both companies. Most of the feedback is more about chassis stuff, not the vertical bay walls on our RV bays. So only semi-relevent.

Am leaning to the POR 15 despite the 3-step process being a lot of work. The thing is, while I don't expect anything to last forever, would hope it would last 5 yrs or so. Also figure if I start with whatever, I'll have to finish with it, so kind
of a time/sweat commitment.

My question - anyone used this product on their bay walls? Have some concerns about comments that POR holds well on the rust but not so well on existing paint, and there is no way I'm going to sand everything down to bare metal. Am willing to coat everything to get a consistent look, but don't want to have to sand paint that's still sticking well.

Any real-world experience, especially with how well it held up over the years?

Thanks...
Ed
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:03 PM   #2
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POR 15 is certainly the way to go, expensive and time consuming, but when you finish you'l have a rust proof application (more like bullet proof!!). I've seriously considering POR 15 for my battery trays.
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:37 PM   #3
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YES.....POR15 is the way to go. When I first used it I had to mail order to get it because of no dealer locally. I loved it so much I became a full stocking dealer. Yes it is very time consuming. But if done properly you'll have awesome results.
Oh.....and DON"T GET IT ON YOUR SKIN because it won't wash off. You'll have to wear it off for weeks.
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:56 PM   #4
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I would consider Por 15 to be one of the best treatments out there. But......I think your wasting your time if you do not remove all the old paint first. Other wise as the paint you leave begins to loosen you will just have more spots to repair later on. I have had the rust problem on 2 Winnebago products. The first one I did as your talking and only did the bad spots, then a year or two later more paint was pealing and on and on it went. My second rig was stripped down to bare metal by the dealer under warranty and so far no rust or peeling paint. Do it right the first time or you can do it over and over.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:03 PM   #5
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I haven't used the POR-15 product, but a good friend has... and he swears by it. It's a bit of work to apply it properly, but once it's on, it there for keeps.

My buddy used it while doing a ground up restoration of his '65 Mustang... now he knows why I always referred to them as "Rustangs"... but anyway, he coated his floor pans, the subframes and inside all the fenders and such, before re-assembling the car and painting it. Short of marinating it in salt water, it ain't gonna rust.

BTW, it goes on black, is high gloss and self leveling, so brush marks will smooth out. After it cures, it's paintable, so you can prep and paint your bays whatever colour you'd like.


Just as an aside... I'm also restoring an old car (a '68 VW I bought new) and while I'm fortunate to have not had to deal with a lot of rust, many of the original nuts, bolts and washers, had a nice "patina" of rust on them. Some were very difficult to break loose...

Rather than go out and, 1. Try to find OEM nuts, bolts and washers... and 2. Pay out the okole for the OEM stuff, I dumped them all into a big jar, filled with plain old, white vinegar.

A few days later, checked on 'em... they were all free of any significant rust and a quick brushing with a small wire brush made 'em good as new.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:31 PM   #6
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Thanks guys for the feedback.

Zippo, I hear what you are saying... and unfortunately it's what I was concerned about, leaving the old paint where it was intact. Will have to think this out some more.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:37 PM   #7
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I did the POR15 on my battery trays 2 years ago, and they look as if I just did them. I had a lot of ospho on hand (an no more POR15), so I used behind the bay doors on the curb side. Wanted to sandblast, but the little blaster that I bought in Harbor Freight didn't look like it would do the job, so I used wire wheels and sandpaper wheels in a power drill. It took a long time, but I got it completely clean.

Prepped it with ospho (rust converter), waited the req'd 24 hours, then 2 coats of Rustoleum black paint. A little over a year now, and it still looks new. Still gotta to do the other side.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:38 PM   #8
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My buddy who restores & repairs older vehicles swears by por-15
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:16 PM   #9
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I have read good things about POR 15 but went with the recommendation of a trusted friend in the auto body, auto restoration business to use SEM Rust Mort or Rust Seal. It works like most of those types of acid-based rust converters. I elected to use Rust Seal since it does not have to be painted (Rust Mort has to be top coated). You do not sand blast but only scrape away the big flakes and hit the rust with a wire brush. Rinse with water, let dry then put two coats of Rust Seal on. It turns the rust to a hard, black finish. The claim is that it continues to penetrate the metal and rust to keep if from rusting again.

I've used it recently and was very pleased with the results. I did elect to top coat it with paint.

http://semproducts.com/product-catal...ion/rust-seal/

You can get Rust Seal at O'Rielly's. A quart is about $60.00.
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefJohn View Post
POR 15 is certainly the way to go, expensive and time consuming, but when you finish you'l have a rust proof application (more like bullet proof!!). I've seriously considering POR 15 for my battery trays.
If you put mineral oil in the batteries it will pretty much stop any corrosion. Use 2 oz per cell in 12 volts and 4 oz per cell in 6 volt batteries.
I put the oil in our present rig in around 2004. After 6 years the battery tray and surrounding area has less corrosion than our previous rig did in 2 years without the oil.
The batteries (Interstate U-2200's) lasted just a month or two short of 10 years too.
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:52 PM   #11
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POR 15 is the way to go check their web site, follow the directions exactly.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:27 PM   #12
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Chassis Saver my friend. It's like POR15, but without the hassle of multiple steps. Rust-o-leum, tremclad and all those other "rust paints" do nothing to stop rust. I once ground down a car frame to bare shiny metal. Primed with red rust primer, than brushed on a good coat of Rustoleum rust paint. 2 years later, that once solid frame rusted out (and not from salt or the elements).....the rust multiplied exponentially. Lesson learned.
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