Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-21-2010, 09:29 PM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
txdutt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 28
Going to tackle spark plugs changeout

I have the W24 workhorse chassis on my Itasca. Going through her front to back & taking care of maintenance items after picking her up a few weeks ago. What am I in for on changing the plugs out? Do I take the doghouse off & get to them from the top or get to them from underneath in the wheelwell or ???? I've changed plenty of plugs over the years but not sure what I'm in for next weekend when I tackle this as well as the fuel filter...TIA!!
__________________
2011 Ford F250 Lariat C/C 6.7 PSD-Curt 20k Lb Hitch
2013 Infinity 3860MS 5'er
2009 Jeep Wrangler Sahara/U.S. Navy 1978-1986
txdutt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2010, 09:58 PM   #2
Winnebago Owner
 
Oemtech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 86
Send a message via AIM to Oemtech
It documented on my web site R&R Plugs/Wires
__________________
Dale
AKA - Oemy
Oemtech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 10:52 AM   #3
Winnebago Owner
 
Easyrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 237
It's easy to do from underneath, will probably take you less than a half hour total. Remember to gap the new plugs!
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
Easyrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 11:22 AM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Buxton, North Dakota
Posts: 1,037
Being a 2005 I wouldn't think it had enough miles on it to need new plugs. The suggested interval is 100,000 miles.
__________________
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G F53/ V10 605 watts of Solar
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C Handicap Equipped
F53/V10
1999 Jeep Cherokee & 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade
John Hilley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 01:55 PM   #5
Winnebago Camper
 
txdutt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 28
I've never trusted 100k mile plugs in anything I've owned, I've changed them around 40k miles or so...coach has 35k so I figure I'll do it along with other maintenance items for my piece of mind since it's new to us...
__________________
2011 Ford F250 Lariat C/C 6.7 PSD-Curt 20k Lb Hitch
2013 Infinity 3860MS 5'er
2009 Jeep Wrangler Sahara/U.S. Navy 1978-1986
txdutt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 09:31 PM   #6
Winnebago Watcher
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1
change spark plug

Change mine from the top. Wire end were hard to remove from spark plug. Plugs were easy to remove from head. Make sure you get the wire on spark plug end good.
cds281 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 09:50 PM   #7
Winnebago Camper
 
ccook129's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Anderson,IN
Posts: 25
Changed mine from the top also,92 degrees outside,turned on the air and got it done in a half hour.
ccook129 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 07:42 PM   #8
Winnebago Camper
 
txdutt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 28
I'll probably go get a new set of plug wires as well just in case....
__________________
2011 Ford F250 Lariat C/C 6.7 PSD-Curt 20k Lb Hitch
2013 Infinity 3860MS 5'er
2009 Jeep Wrangler Sahara/U.S. Navy 1978-1986
txdutt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2010, 08:15 AM   #9
Winnebago Camper
 
roy616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by txdutt View Post
I have the W24 workhorse chassis on my Itasca. Going through her front to back & taking care of maintenance items after picking her up a few weeks ago. What am I in for on changing the plugs out? Do I take the doghouse off & get to them from the top or get to them from underneath in the wheelwell or ???? I've changed plenty of plugs over the years but not sure what I'm in for next weekend when I tackle this as well as the fuel filter...TIA!!
I always take a “Q-Tip” loaded with dielectric grease and coat the inside surface of the plug wire boot, and the metal connector that attaches to the plug. It makes the removal much easier…it probably won’t apply to you but the next guy will appreciate it.

If you have access to compressed air blow out the recess where the plugs sit before you remove them. A little anti-seize on the threads is a good idea too.
__________________
2002 Winnebago Brave, 32V, Ford Triton 6.8L V10, 26K miles, Algonquin, Illinois
roy616 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2010, 12:41 PM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
Oemtech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 86
Send a message via AIM to Oemtech
I do it from under the coach. I have many and it only takes me about 30 mins to do plugs and wires. R & R Plugs/Wires - Oemy Style
__________________
Dale
AKA - Oemy
Oemtech is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Converter changeout new2RVn Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics 7 01-18-2012 11:09 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×