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Old 01-01-2017, 08:30 PM   #1
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Entry door loose; How do I adjust Strike?

My entry door is loose. I can easily push it in and out. The bolt lock will not engage unless I pull hard on the door.

How do I adjust my strike to tighten up the door? Here is a picture of the strike. I guess that groove is supposed to be there, but I'm not sure.

Untitled by jspringator, on Flickr
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:56 PM   #2
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Position it and tighten with a wrench applied at the groove, keep moving it till it is correct. As you move it towards the inside on the coach it will press the door tighter against the door frame. It also can move up or down to position the door latch properly. Just trial and error. Rkl
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Old 01-04-2017, 09:29 PM   #3
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I have the reverse problem.....my door must be slammed HARD to close it. It's a fairly "new to me" rig, but the PO(s) [just like me] just slammed it hard and figured that keeps the rattling down.........some. Result: This constant slamming and the subsequent forces against the seal assy while going down the road caused the metal screws in the seal ass'y to actually shear the threads they cut in the thin fiberglass material inside the door....so I had to install larger screws. But now I want to lower the dynamic forces on that entry door seal......so the thread stripping doesn't recur......hopefully. I plan to move the strike bolt (just like yours) outboard "just a tad". Googled up a link that is relevant, I believe. It's 9 degrees for a high here in the Denver area tomorrow, so this job will have to wait a while.

Here's the link to a PDF for adjusting the Winnegago-style strike pin. Hope it helps you (and me too).

https://www.google.com/#q=how+to+adjust+rv+entry+door
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Old 01-05-2017, 05:45 AM   #4
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Thanks.

I guess the lesson for me is don't overdo it.
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspringator View Post
My entry door is loose. I can easily push it in and out. The bolt lock will not engage unless I pull hard on the door.

How do I adjust my strike to tighten up the door? Here is a picture of the strike. I guess that groove is supposed to be there, but I'm not sure.

Untitled by jspringator, on Flickr
You should be able to loosen the striker with a wrench or socket. It can be relocated once loose. Your latch has been too tight, out of adjustment for a very long time. I don't think you can relocate the groove by tightening the stud. You might be able to get a new striker stud at a automotive parts store. Bring the old one with you. Check the door hook for damage.

Hope this helps.

Rick Y
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:27 PM   #6
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Entry door loose; How do I adjust Strike?

Just an update.....I adjusted my strike pin today.

Sorry, but I didn't notice the date on the link I posted earlier. The procedure is evidently for 2003 models and earlier. That didn't work for me; evidently a design change was made post-2003? It may very well apply to your rig though jspringator. (In which case you would not be able to just simply loosen the strike, reposition it laterally and then re-tighten it cuz there is evidently a "normal" nut holding it in place on the 2003 and earlier rigs.)

Hope all my not-so-great pics will fit in this post. I haven't had a lot of luck in the past......lots of rules re number of images + file size.

I moved my strike pin outboard so the door didn't have to be slammed so hard that it caused the screws in the seal assy to shear their threads over the years and back out. It worked exactly like Rick Y said. The pin is held by a nut plate that is "Captive" but can slide in the lateral direction after loosening it and then you retighten it.



Also agree with Rick Y that jspringator's strike doesn't look right. My pin has worn through the "anti squeak" coating, but there's no groove there. (The anti squeak feature is pretty short lived, I have read in other posts....folks use an elec tape wrap, shrink tubing and all sorts of other "fixes")



To adjust the strike vertically on mine (a 2007) it appears you need to shift the assembly shown in the pics below and retighten/reinstall the screws. I didn't "mess with" those.





I only got about 1/32" of lateral adjustment but it was enough so that the door closes tightly if shut "with authority" but I don't have to slam the heck out of it anymore. This latch mechanism seems to me to be similar to a hood latch, i.e., there is a first catch (which barely compresses the bulb seal around the door) and a second catch which should prevent wind noise and maybe lessen the door rattling while enroute......dunno. I am only gonna slam my door when I plan to get on the road....provided the first catch is tight enough to keep the rain out, and I believe it is.

Hope this ramblin' post helps someone.
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:32 PM   #7
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Well, I see that worked well.

If anyone is interested, perhaps I can try another day. I thought I followed the directions for inserting images in the text, but evidently not. Or I exeeded the max allowed.........dunno.

Sorry...............Ed S.
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:13 AM   #8
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I didn't seem to be able to insert images into the body of my post, so I created an album in Flickr..........perhaps that will work. A double click on each image will enlarge it, I believe.

Fingers crossed

https://flic.kr/s/aHskLEiDcE
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youracman View Post
Just an update.....I adjusted my strike pin today.

Sorry, but I didn't notice the date on the link I posted earlier. The procedure is evidently for 2003 models and earlier. That didn't work for me; evidently a design change was made post-2003? It may very well apply to your rig though jspringator. (In which case you would not be able to just simply loosen the strike, reposition it laterally and then re-tighten it cuz there is evidently a "normal" nut holding it in place on the 2003 and earlier rigs.)

Hope all my not-so-great pics will fit in this post. I haven't had a lot of luck in the past......lots of rules re number of images + file size.

I moved my strike pin outboard so the door didn't have to be slammed so hard that it caused the screws in the seal assy to shear their threads over the years and back out. It worked exactly like Rick Y said. The pin is held by a nut plate that is "Captive" but can slide in the lateral direction after loosening it and then you retighten it.



Also agree with Rick Y that jspringator's strike doesn't look right. My pin has worn through the "anti squeak" coating, but there's no groove there. (The anti squeak feature is pretty short lived, I have read in other posts....folks use an elec tape wrap, shrink tubing and all sorts of other "fixes")



To adjust the strike vertically on mine (a 2007) it appears you need to shift the assembly shown in the pics below and retighten/reinstall the screws. I didn't "mess with" those.





I only got about 1/32" of lateral adjustment but it was enough so that the door closes tightly if shut "with authority" but I don't have to slam the heck out of it anymore. This latch mechanism seems to me to be similar to a hood latch, i.e., there is a first catch (which barely compresses the bulb seal around the door) and a second catch which should prevent wind noise and maybe lessen the door rattling while enroute......dunno. I am only gonna slam my door when I plan to get on the road....provided the first catch is tight enough to keep the rain out, and I believe it is.

Hope this ramblin' post helps someone.
Great picture Ed. It may just be the angle of the shot but, is the bottom of that access hole interfering with the adjustment? Also, it looks as if the washer is set in the door trim. No way will it move if that recess is grabbing the backer washer.

Rick Y
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:41 PM   #10
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Good points, Rick.

I actually slid the "captive" nut from side to side with a scratch awl before I reinstalled the strike pin ...... so it was "free"; but now that I study that picture, it appears as if the adjustment slot in that plate was made by drilling 3 holes ............. definitely does not appear to be a milled slot. Maybe that is why I gained so little displacement in the outboard direction; i.e., the strike bolt ran into interference (from one of those "points" within the so-called "slot") while being slid in the outboard direction? I still occasionally make a slot that way myself (no milling machine) but I at least file the points off so it kinda looks like a slot with roughly parallel top and bottom edges. I think I will remove the strike bolt and examine things a little more closely next time I am at the storage lot.

Re the washer: Yes, it is a pretty thick washer that backs up against a shoulder on the strike pin. I believe the recess you see is just paint deformation.......the iphone camera exaggerates it a bit.

The door didn't need much adjustment and it is now just about the right "tightness" IMHO. I'm thinking I just lucked out ..... in spite of some visible manufacturing quality issues.

If I come up with something significant/conclusive, I'll update this post.
Appreciate your review/comments.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:52 PM   #11
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My door was leaking air around it, so I tried adjusting this bolt to close the door tighter. It made the door so hard to close/open DW couldn't do it by herself. I asked a Winnebago dealer to re-adjust the bolt and the technician said it is designed to have movement in the door when closed, the gaskets are supposed to seal the door. Then he said most doors are bent from traveling movement, and they cannot be straightened, even new doors can arrive with a slight twist in them.
He re-positioned the bolt to its original position and said that was the correct position for my door when closed.
Well, dumb me, I got home and put the bolt back to where the door was tight when closed. Shortly thereafter the remote door lock solenoid in the door failed, when I returned to that dealer the same tech replaced the solenoid mechanism, re-set the door latch bolt. I left it alone after that, and it's worked fine ever since. Just got used to the air noise.
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Old 01-28-2017, 08:35 AM   #12
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I don't think that groove is supposed to be there. I got into the parts fiche and ordered a new strike for a few dollars from amazon. If it isn't supposed to be there, I'm first going to try to fill it with JB Weld. That will be a lot easier than replacing it. I will update later.
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Old 01-28-2017, 01:26 PM   #13
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I know JB Weld is good stuff but I think you'll find it won't last long for that. Either get a new one or turn that one 180* so the door latch rests on a spot that is not worn. I would also position it so the door is held tight against the jamb and lower so the door latch doesn't hang down heavily on the strike.

The 180* part can be done with a washer, or sheet metal. If the thread is 16 per inch, a 1/16" thick washer will stop it one full turn from where it is now. a washer or sheet metal cut washer 1/32" thick will stop the strike I/2 turn (180*) short of where it is now putting the worn section on the bottom..
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Old 01-28-2017, 02:51 PM   #14
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I had a worn door strike on my BMW convertible. As I drove down the road the window would go up and down a 1/2 inch. I did JB weld on on the strike and it lasted several years until I sold the car.
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