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Old 10-21-2007, 03:29 PM   #1
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My black tank valve failed yesterday in the open position due to a broken cable. Seeing that it looks like I'll have to take the waste water panel off to get at the valve I am considering replacing both valves with the drain master electric valves. Does any one have any experience with these?
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Old 10-21-2007, 03:29 PM   #2
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My black tank valve failed yesterday in the open position due to a broken cable. Seeing that it looks like I'll have to take the waste water panel off to get at the valve I am considering replacing both valves with the drain master electric valves. Does any one have any experience with these?
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Old 10-21-2007, 06:37 PM   #3
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It is possible the cable may have just come loose from the valve rather than being broken ...might be an easy fix when you actually get to it.

A tip you might need. If you remove the panel and find you still cannot get to the valves, I replaced the seals in my gray valve recently and had to remove the wall of the storage compartment next to the water service bay to get to it. It isn't hard to remove the wall on my coach ...took about as long to empty the "stuff" out of the compartment as it did to remove the wall.

No experience with the electric valves personally, but from stories about them a few years ago I would not want them unless there is also a way to manually operate the valves if/when the electric portion fails.
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Old 10-22-2007, 03:53 AM   #4
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I had my fresh water tank valve cable pull out of the valve sunday when I was winterizing. When I accessed the area where the valve was I could see that the cable had slipped out of the spot that crimps it in place. I think this was caused by two things. 1> The rod that moves the valve had rust or corrosion on it causing extra strain on the cable. 2> The screws that clamp the cable needed to be tightened up a bit. I used fine sand paper to clean the rod and put some lube on it to make the cable work easier. This took me about 2 hours to do because of the tight spot. Had to use offset screw driver cut in half and mirror to see. Not a job for a big person.

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Old 10-22-2007, 04:37 AM   #5
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As Paul (AF Chap) advised you have to remove the side wall of the compartment beside the wet bay to access the valves. Removingthe panel doesn't give you good access. After you remove the "hard wall" you will have some styrofoam that you will have to chip away to see the valves. When you get the styro removed it wll be relativcely easy. When you get tothe valves you wil probably decide against cahnging tol electric. Good luck.
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Old 10-22-2007, 10:33 AM   #6
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I have tried to look at the cable attachment at the valve but I cant quite see it, so I guess I'll have to pull the panel. On the 35U the only compartment next to the water compartment is the electric bay which I cant see how would allow access to the valves and on the other side is the wheel well again I don't think access to the valves will come from there If anyone has pulled the water panel from a 35U I'd like to hear how it went!..The drain master valves do have an non electrical method of operation.
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:01 PM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> If anyone has pulled the water panel from a 35U I'd like to hear how it went! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Me too! Mine are working but not smoothly so I'd like to do some PM before it becomes real. 2001 Itasca 35U. Steve
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:40 PM   #8
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We have a 2000 35U. I have pulled the panel to repair the valves. It's not a fun job and one you don't want to start if your in a hurry. The first time I took the panel out I said never again. Second time I took it out I knew a little more about taking it out. Just today I noticed the black water valve is very hard to operate. So a third time may be in order. This time I will replace both instead of rebuilding them. There has to be a better way than those cables. Electric might be a choice if the valves are better than they use to be. About 6 or 7 years ago I installed electric valves in a travel trailer we owned. They worked fine at first, but became gummed up and needed to be taken apart and cleaned once or twice a season. Out in the open under a travel trailer it's no big problem, but up in that compartment behind the panel I would not want them. The electric valves I had did have a knob on them to operate manual.
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Old 10-22-2007, 02:42 PM   #9
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We also have a 2000 35U and I am in the process of doing some repaires to my drain valves. Pulled the panel to gain access to the valves. A little tight but easy to remove the valves. I am cleaning/lubing the valves, replacing seals and replacing the black water cable (the outter casing broke away from the handle assembly).
There was a question about how the cable was attached to the valve assembly. The cable inserts into the valve and is secured with a hex screw.. hope this is helpful.
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:31 AM   #10
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I have had my gray water cable come out of the sleeve attachment to the valve twice now, I did not remove anything. I was able to use a very stubby Craftsman (Philips head), to re-attach to the little clamp they use to attach the outside of the shield to the valve assembly. If this clamp is not tight the cable will not work. One h--- of a job, but do-able. Lousy set up. A friend of mine has the same coach, same size, same year but he has the direct handle valves, no cables, wonder why?
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