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Old 08-08-2014, 11:47 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Starsekr View Post
Is there some re-wiring that needs to be done to change from the obsolete 6535B3352 to the 6535-3442? Looking at the pin-out requirements in the 6535 service and maint. manual, and the wall thermostat brochure from RV Products, the freeze sensor contacts that go to pins 1 & 3 are not used, in fact pin 1 on the new thermostat connector is empty and pin 3 is listed as a generator auto-start.
No problem not using the 2 freeze sensor wires....the heat pump will still shut down. The t-stat just won't indicate why the unit stopped, a quick look at the coils and you'll see the ice build up and know what's up.

Bill
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Old 08-09-2014, 01:43 PM   #44
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For the time being, I give up. Half an AC is better than no AC. I completely struck out trying to get an AC tech of any description to travel to my house while the AC was out. I ran out of time as I need to leave in the motor home on Thursday.

I put it back this morning. It was kind of a bear by myself but thank goodness for a floor jack.

After a long phone call with Gene (bug512) yesterday, I determined that I could go no further as specialized equipment and expertise and licensing is required.

Maybe I can get it fixed in Quartzsite this winter. Thanks for all advice and I am glad that some others got value from this thread.
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:26 PM   #45
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Call 3 t's in Lake Havasu City and check if they will work on it.
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Old 08-09-2014, 09:08 PM   #46
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So sorry to hear about your frustrating dilemma, Bruce. I'll throw out a couple of comments for whatever they may be worth.

Personally, I wouldn't be too quick to suspect a faulty compressor, even though it could well end up being just that. Compressor failure often results in a full locked rotor situation which results in an immediate excessive spike in amperage which typically and instantly trips the current overload protection. In this condition the compressor itself will not make any type of starting sound.

I'll make an assumption (which I think is a safe assumption) that comp #1 and comp #2 are two separate refrigerant loops sharing a common air plenum. If that is the case, my primary suspicion would be a low refrigerant charge. Typically, there is a low pressure switch in the system that upon low system charge will not allow a compressor to receive the necessary voltage to start. A compressor that starts in a very low refrigerant charge condition could possibly result in the compressor pulling a vacuum on the low pressure side which could introduce contaminants through a system leak. The low pressure switch is a safety to prevent system damage. Charging with refrigerant will fix the problem but not the leak. If the leak is very minor, a recharge can last for years.

Leaks can occur any where in the system. Hermetically sealed systems can leak at poorly brazed or soldered joints, or a spot on the tubing that's been rubbed through, but more often than not they leak at mechanical fittings. Check for any oily spots on the tubing and fittings. If there are service valves on the unit it will not be difficult for a trained person to determine of the system has an adequate charge. If it does have an adequate refrigerant charge, and if the electrical signals (both high and low voltage) check out, then it may be a compressor failure. Somewhere in the system the low voltage (Thermostat) sends a signal to a compressor start relay which is the direct line voltage to the compressor. Make sure the start relay is properly functioning when energized by the low voltage T-stat signal. In many cases, if you are capable of understanding and safely working with line voltage electrical components, you can locate and manually activate (depress) the compressor start relay to provide line voltage to the compressor. First verify that you have the proper voltage to the line side of the relay. If not, check the low pressure with to verify it is not opened. If the compressor starts and runs normally, then you can circle back to the control voltage (T-stat, etc) troubleshooting.

FWIW - Earlier one of your posts mentioned that you had about 11amps which was the outdoor blower on high. That sounds too high for a condenser (outdoor) / (indoor) evaporator fan. I would GUESS that the total amps for a single compressor and associated fan would be somewhere around 14amps, or about double that for two compressors. Also, a system with a very low refrigerant charge (but not low enough to open the LP switch) will pull low amperage because the compressor is not "working hard" or fully loaded. And it will barely cool, if at all, with a very low charge.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific but I'm not familiar with the basement system. Anyway, I hope some of this helps to solve your dilemma. Good luck and please keep us posted about your progress.

cheers,
Joopy
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:40 PM   #47
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Bruce, we just had a problem with our basement A/C. While camping on 104 degree day we could not get the coach lower than 92 degrees. We called all over trying to find someone to work on it and even the trucking repair companies don't do RV repairs.
I know it's a long ride for you & us (we live near Sonora, CA), but we finally called La Mesa RV in Davis, CA and they work on the basement A/C units. Our Coach is currently there and we hope to pick it up on the 12th.
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:45 AM   #48
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Bruce, we just had a problem with our basement A/C. While camping on 104 degree day we could not get the coach lower than 92 degrees. We called all over trying to find someone to work on it and even the trucking repair companies don't do RV repairs.
I know it's a long ride for you & us (we live near Sonora, CA), but we finally called La Mesa RV in Davis, CA and they work on the basement A/C units. Our Coach is currently there and we hope to pick it up on the 12th.
Good tip! I have used La Mesa service in the past (many years) and was quite pleased with their service.

It is a long ride, about 3 hours.
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:37 PM   #49
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They are two separate circuits.

There is not a low pressure switch on either circuit.

All the fittings are brazed.

With 22 is there is a leak the charge will most likely not be "low" the system will be empty. Each circuit only holds a couple of pounds.

Good luck and take a drive to NJ. I will work on it !
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Old 04-18-2015, 04:54 PM   #50
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I wanted to wrap this up. After having no luck phoning every AC repair place around; I went to my closest residential AC repair place, in person and with the repair manual in my hand. I offered to remove the unit at their location so that they would have it on their bench. This actually worked!


On the bench, the tech found that compressor #1 was running, just not doing anything. He did a pressure test and found a leak in the coolant line just as it runs though a metal wall. He did a good job brazing it back together and did an overnight pressure test.


I then reinstalled the unit. I just got done with an extensive test on a fairly hot day, about 85 degrees. All works well.


Thanks to Gene for pointing in the right direction and providing backup in case
something went wrong.


Something to be aware of, our systems run on 12 volts and residential units favor 24 volts so they were a little stumped on how to run it. He did directly run 110 to the compressor to make sure that it ran. I drove the motorhome up there to run the AC using my 12 controls.


Good luck to anyone else with this problem.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:33 PM   #51
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Glad to see this resolved and thanks for the update.
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:32 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
I wanted to wrap this up. After having no luck phoning every AC repair place around; I went to my closest residential AC repair place, in person and with the repair manual in my hand. I offered to remove the unit at their location so that they would have it on their bench. This actually worked!


On the bench, the tech found that compressor #1 was running, just not doing anything. He did a pressure test and found a leak in the coolant line just as it runs though a metal wall. He did a good job brazing it back together and did an overnight pressure test.


I then reinstalled the unit. I just got done with an extensive test on a fairly hot day, about 85 degrees. All works well.


Thanks to Gene for pointing in the right direction and providing backup in case
something went wrong.


Something to be aware of, our systems run on 12 volts and residential units favor 24 volts so they were a little stumped on how to run it. He did directly run 110 to the compressor to make sure that it ran. I drove the motorhome up there to run the AC using my 12 controls.


Good luck to anyone else with this problem.
Hip, Hip Hooray!!!

This is what I call "when there's a will, there's a way".

Very good Bruceh
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:53 PM   #53
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Bruceh,

Thanks for the great write up. I've learned a lot ready the comments here. Our A/C acted up a few days ago coming from Florida to Ashville, N.C. It was very intermittent and would come on sometimes when the T-stat was set very low (most likely coincident), and another time as we were driving. I unhooked the T-stat and used contact cleaner on the connections, and lucked out as it has ran just fine since.

Glad you got yours going,
Dave
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:58 AM   #54
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Glad things worked out...Another option if the basement ac gets to expensive to deal with is to install a roof ac...A friend of mine did this on his 39 ft Adventurer with 3 slides to give him extra cooling...It works so well that he never uses his basement ac anymore..It installs in place of one of the roof vents....Here's a writeup on someone who has done this...We add a roof top AC unit - page 1
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