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Old 10-10-2012, 01:49 PM   #1
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Basement AC and 30 amp

I am strongly considering buying a 2005 Winnebago Journey 34H with basement AC. In a motorhome that has 2 roof AC's you typically can run one AC only when on 30 amp. What about Winnebago's basement AC - Is it 50 amp or nothing? Does it only cool part of the coach on 30 amp? I have no doubt I will be staying at some campsites that only have 30 amp, so how this effects a 50 amp coach with basement AC is important. Thanks.
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:58 PM   #2
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Not a problem. The Power Management system will automatically control the cooling and keep the entire coach cool on 30 amp. You just have to be careful not to run additional power drags like a microwave, toaster, hair dryer, etc.

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Old 10-10-2012, 02:18 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by traveler of california View Post
Not a problem. The Power Management system will automatically control the cooling and keep the entire coach cool on 30 amp. You just have to be careful not to run additional power drags like a microwave, toaster, hair dryer, etc.

Nick
And if you would like to, you can turn off the #2 compressor breaker in the 110V panel. I often do that at home where I only have a 30A receptacle

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Old 10-10-2012, 02:33 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by traveler of california View Post
Not a problem. The Power Management system will automatically control the cooling and keep the entire coach cool on 30 amp. You just have to be careful not to run additional power drags like a microwave, toaster, hair dryer, etc.

Nick
DITTO!

I have a home base CG with only 30 amps...NO PROBLEM!

With both AC compressors running, you should draw about 21-22 amps. That leaves plenty of room for you to run most any number of normal 12V devices (lights, fans and such) which might max out your converter. Big items will cause your EMS to shed devices like AC compressor 2, electric water heater, AC fan and Refer. Bigger devices like Microwave, hair dryer or vacuum all draw 10 amps or more. But, assuming you run these for short times, you shouldn't see a big issue unless it is REALLY HOT and going down to 1 AC compressor for a long time lets the coach heat up.

If you really need to keep the AC going because you are adding some high drain devices, and expect to for a relatively long time, you could just start your genny for the time you need to do that. Of course, be a good neighbor about that. In my case, I am kinda in a solo slot and could start my genny but didn't need to.

Assuming you have one, don't forget to use the 15/20 amp outlet on the pedestal for as much as you can. Outdoor lights and devices work well on that outlet instead of any outside outlets you have on your RV. Some enterprising folks have actually added a separate circuit and plug for just such cases. In that case, I've read they have dedicated a couple strategic outlets for things like coffee pots, toasters and such.

50 amps in a CG is MUCHO NO PROBLEMO! You actually have 100 total amps. Even 50 amps from the generator will handle just about any sane number of devices running. Yes, a 5.5K generator actually is good for only about 48 amps but still not an issue.

EDIT...

This all assumes you run the water heater and refer on gas.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:54 PM   #5
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The Wizard has it right. Open the number 2 breaker and when the number 1 is up to speed, throw the number 2 breaker. Not all hookups are equal.

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Old 10-12-2012, 07:23 AM   #6
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Thanks all, that is very helpful!
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:52 AM   #7
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Open the number 2 breaker and when the number 1 is up to speed, throw the number 2 breaker.
. Why bother wearing out the breaker? The system starts #1 compressor first. Then, if t-stat is set for more than 3 degrees different from ambient temp, FOLLOWING APX 2 MIN DELAY, it starts #2. As already stated, both together will pull apx 21 amps. The only adjustment we have ever made is to not run water heater on electric, microwave and/or coffeepot, and on a few occasions have switched refrigerator to LP if amp meter was hovering around 28-29 with several other items running. Switching refer will get you 3-4 amps. And if you DO accidentally go over 30a, the energy management system will shut down #2, which, etc to cover you.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:10 AM   #8
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Before you buy the coach you should have the duct that goes up the back of the coach from the Basement unit inspected. If the duct work is "suspect" have the seller fix it. We had to have the back of the coach removed to repair the open duct. We bought the insurance policy on it and it only cost us $100 for the deductible (total coast was $1100). Other than that the basement air/Heat pump will run just fine on 30 amp hookup.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:16 AM   #9
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Didn't W convert its systems to 50 amps in 2006? I wouldn't have anything but 50 amp service. Last thing I want to do is juggle electrical items.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:24 AM   #10
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Didn't W convert its systems to 50 amps in 2006? I wouldn't have anything but 50 amp service. Last thing I want to do is juggle electrical items.
So how does that work out for you, at a campground that only has 30 AMP hook ups. As the above post are about.

A 30 AMP MH with EMS, you don't have to juggle electric items. The EMS does it for you. Also you can run 2 AC units at the same time.

Can a 50 AMP MH hooked to a 30 AMP only shore power run 2 AC units at the same time?
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:09 AM   #11
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Can a 50 AMP MH hooked to a 30 AMP only shore power run 2 AC units at the same time?
Winnebago & Itasca motorhomes .... YES
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:19 PM   #12
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We have found that at night if we need the a/c, we kick off the #2 compressor breaker to keep the humming noise down from the compressors since the entire unit is under the bedroom corner. At night with the sun not beating down and temps relatively warm, the one compressor works just fine.

My only problem is remembering to reset it during the day when it heats up. Guess I need to start putting a sticky note of the thermostat to remind me.
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