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Old 04-21-2014, 09:39 AM   #1
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Another windshield leak problem

Driver side windshield has a small crack on the left side, low, caused by stress from corrosion and I have to put a bucket on my dash when it rains as it drips at the top on the right side. So the RV windshield guy is coming this week to replace it as I sit in a park. Any words of wisdom?
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:52 AM   #2
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Are you going to have him wire brush or something to remove the rust and then apply some sort of rust converter/preventer?
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:00 AM   #3
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youre probably going to find you may need to have a new metal frame welded in.
That was the problem with ours.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:03 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by CJ7ole View Post
Driver side windshield has a small crack on the left side, low, caused by stress from corrosion and I have to put a bucket on my dash when it rains as it drips at the top on the right side. So the RV windshield guy is coming this week to replace it as I sit in a park. Any words of wisdom?
Words of wisdom: I have been there, and I caused my own problem by improper leveling and staying in RV Parks that were so out of level I should have left as soon as I saw the site. I am wiser now and ask to moved or give me my money back. It took me two popped windshields to learn my lesson,..... I don't need to stay there that bad.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:27 AM   #5
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Words of wisdom: I have been there, and I caused my own problem by improper leveling and staying in RV Parks that were so out of level I should have left as soon as I saw the site. I am wiser now and ask to moved or give me my money back. It took me two popped windshields to learn my lesson,..... I don't need to stay there that bad.
Chuck: was that on your Travel Supreme? If so, didn't they have a recurring issue which they were trying to fix just before they went belly up?
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:24 PM   #6
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Are you going to have him wire brush or something to remove the rust and then apply some sort of rust converter/preventer?
I believe that is their standard procedure for rusted frames.
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Old 04-22-2014, 03:04 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by CJ7ole View Post
Driver side windshield has a small crack on the left side, low, caused by stress from corrosion and I have to put a bucket on my dash when it rains as it drips at the top on the right side. So the RV windshield guy is coming this week to replace it as I sit in a park. Any words of wisdom?
Do a search on this topic (windshield frame rust) and unfortunately, you will find way too much information. I hope you can take a few pictures when the glass company starts removing the molding and pulls the glass and post for the rest of us. I won't be at all surprised if it takes more than a little rust clean-up and spray-rust prohibitor to repair it properly. I've seen more than a few that the windshield frames had to be cut out and rebuilt.

Good luck; hopefully yours is better than mine! ($3,800 to repair and replace.)
-RT
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:37 AM   #8
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The local mobile service glass guys just left. $375 deductible, $1200 if I had to pay the bill. He said it was in better shape than many he has worked on, no rust through. About 10% of the perimeter had severe rust, half was ok, the rest was lightly rusted. But this is a temporary fix as there is no way to stop the rust once it starts, all you can do is slow it down. I am hoping for 5 years. We'll see. The primer is applied with a dauber like you use for PVC pipe primer or cement. Here are a few pics of the frame before scraping the rust and applying their rust deactivator/primer.





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Old 04-24-2014, 05:43 PM   #9
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The local mobile service glass guys just left. $375 deductible, $1200 if I had to pay the bill. He said it was in better shape than many he has worked on, no rust through. About 10% of the perimeter had severe rust, half was ok, the rest was lightly rusted. But this is a temporary fix as there is no way to stop the rust once it starts, all you can do is slow it down. I am hoping for 5 years. We'll see. The primer is applied with a dauber like you use for PVC pipe primer or cement. Here are a few pics of the frame before scraping the rust and applying their rust deactivator/primer.
CJ7ole;

For the repair that you did, did the glass company grind down all the rust to clean metal and then cutout and replace all the bad metal, or was the repair cleaning up the rust and spraying a primer?

The glass company here refused to just do a clean-up since the rust was too prevalent, and they knew that it would start leaking again rather quickly.

Thank you. -RT
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:45 PM   #10
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They scraped all of the loose rust with a screwdriver like scraper. To cutout and replace metal would be a huge and expensive undertaking. No spraying involved, they soaked all of the exposed metal and rust with a windshield frame specific rust deactivator/primer. Yes I expect it to be a problem in the future as it is a known problem with many MH windshield frames. The same guys did the passenger side 3 years ago and it is not leaking yet.

By the way, if you read my last post, it answered all of your questions.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:37 AM   #11
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By the way, if you read my last post, it answered all of your questions.
Sorry about that, I guess you did. I did read the entire thread beforehand, including your post before I asked my clarifying questions. Based on the photos you had posted and this being a known issue, I was surprised that the glass company didn't insist on a complete repair if they had to warranty any of their work. But as you noted, it would have been far more expensive to make the proper long-term repair.

When I had my repair done, the glass shop that did the work (metal work was subbed out to a body shop) they told me that they refuse all Winnebago/Itasca rusted windshield frame repairs unless the customer is willing to do all the as-needed required work, including cutting and replacing any and all rusted-through metal. They start by inspecting the frame after removing the reveal molding with the customer and if it's obvious that metal work will need to be done (the rust usually looks a lot worse once they pull the glass) and the customer doesn't want to pay for the additional work, they stop right there and reinstall the molding, taking no corrective action what-so-ever.

Shop owner said that when these rust issues first started showing up some years back, people only wanted to do a band-aid and then a few months later, after heavy rain, would come back with leaks and claim they paid for the 'repair' and wanted to sue the shop for sub-standard work. So now, the shop only does full repairs, no band-aids, or sends them down the road. And of course, all the more reason that anyone looking to buy a used Winnebago in these model-years better do a thorough inspection! Someone's going to have to pay, one way or the other, sooner or later...

Hope you have better luck than me with my 2005 (and my father-in-law's 2006) and get the years you want out of your repair. -RT
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:46 AM   #12
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Our rust was all on the bottom. That's what I had to have done for them to cover it. They removed front of coach on bottom.They cut out all rusted areas and re-fabricated and replaced steel. That job was then sealed and treated with some kind of inhibitor/sealer they use for windshields. Then installed 2 new windshields. Cost me $800 for frame repair and $1000 for my deductable. Insurance paid the rest.
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Old 04-26-2014, 02:13 PM   #13
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I recently had both windshields replaced on our 2001 Winnabego. The cause was probably improper leveling after receiving a few rock dings. There was a lot of rust. There were several spots rusted through. I got some 2-part bondo-like material from an automotive paint shop. The rust was sanded off with one of those 3M scotch-brite pads on a grinder. It was sanded down to bright steel.The bondo was applied and then after curing it was sanded down flat. It stuck very well and filled the holes.The glass man said the water was coming from leaks around the clearance lights above. He sealed those with silicone rubber.

I think it will work. Time will tell.

I was levelling the coach in the wrong sequence. I was leveling front to back first and then side to side after. The right way is to raise the low side first, then the other side and then to level front to back. It works better because it does not twist the coach. I can tell because before the door would often be hard to open. Now it is always easy to open. Also the lock turns easily. Before sometimes it was difficult to lock or unlock. I thought the door needed adjusting, but it was just not leveled in the proper sequence. When you level the sides first you can feel one jack contact the ground, then after a while the other jack contacts and it starts lifting. This compensates for dips in the ground. When you do the front or back first, you do not get the proper compensation for dips, and so often you end up twisting the coach. Since learning this and changing to the right way, the leveling is easier and no twist. I guess it pays to read the instructions. Who knew.

John
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:44 AM   #14
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John Joseph FWIW According to the owners manual for my 2004 Winnebago Sightseer with the Kwikee LevelBest system you are supposed to level it front to back first and then side to side.
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:54 PM   #15
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John Joseph FWIW According to the owners manual for my 2004 Winnebago Sightseer with the Kwikee LevelBest system you are supposed to level it front to back first and then side to side.
JohnJoseph, We have a 2000 Winne Itaska Suncruiser 32'. The Operator's Manual from HWH Corp, the mfg of the touch panel-controlled leveling system 310 Series, says in all caps, "ALWAYS LEVEL THE VEHICLE FROM SIDE TO SIDE BEFORE LEVELING THE VEHICLE FRONT TO REAR." You should begin on the low side as indicated by the yellow light. I hope this helps.
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