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Old 05-17-2016, 11:01 AM   #1
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Another Heatpump Question

I have a 2002 adventure 35u with a model 6535a871 heat pump with 6535-3209 pc board. and Coleman-MachTrue air thermostat. With the thermostat position to electric the heat pump comes on and with the 1st compressor I read 12 amps and when the 2nd. one kicks in it settles back to 17. Which seems to low from what I read when I search this forum. There is about a 4 degree rise in temp. when I measure at the in-take and the first exhaust in the ceiling. I am not sure if that is enough. No matter how high I set the thermostat it never turns on the gas heat unless I select gas heat. The manual says once you select electric heat the PC board takes over and controls the heat pump, BUT does the thermostat control when it turns on the gas heat and shuts down the heat pump, or is it still the PC board? I am thinking I should replace the thermostat, but am looking for a second opinion. Thanks
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:20 AM   #2
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The start up of both compressors and fan motors are controlled by the pc board, once the tstat sends the signal to the board. Both compressors are used in electric heat mode.

Tstat controls stopping unit operation, activating gas furnace if heat pump can't keep up to set temp, and locking out unit, and shutting off unit due to freezing coils.

You seem to have 2 separate issues, first the operation of 2nd compressor, second the initiating of gas furnace if temp is set several degrees above room temp.

If both compressors operate in cooling mode, then it may be an issue with the pc board.

It would appear to be a tstat issue regarding the gas furnace operation.
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:39 AM   #3
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?....There is about a 4 degree rise in temp. when I measure at the in-take and the first exhaust in the ceiling. I am not sure if that is enough.

If outside air temperature is above 45F then 4 degree difference is not enough. Should be able to produce at least 15 degree difference between air intake and exhaust.
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:23 AM   #4
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If outside air temperature is above 45F then 4 degree difference is not enough. Should be able to produce at least 15 degree difference between air intake and exhaust.
I did not think that was enough. And I suspect it has something to do with it not drawing enough amperage. Since it is 14 years old I am thinking it may not be worth putting to much money in it. I wonder if the new ones are better.
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:47 AM   #5
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I did not think that was enough. And I suspect it has something to do with it not drawing enough amperage. Since it is 14 years old I am thinking it may not be worth putting to much money in it. I wonder if the new ones are better.

How does it work in cooling mode?
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:09 AM   #6
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Also, check you outside vertical ductwork for leaks.

If you turn off the circuit breaker for the #2 compressor, you can heat with the #1.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:54 PM   #7
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How does it work in cooling mode?
I noticed the heat pump not heating last fall and thought the AC was OK. it kept us cool last month in FL. with the temp in the low 80's, but the amps always stayed low around 18. Today the temp out side was about 60. I turned the thermostat down to 40 and after 1/2 hour had a 12 degree drop from intake to exhaust. Then I turned number 2 compreser circuit breaker off, the amps dropped from 18 to 13, after 1/2 hour had a 10 degree drop from intake to exhaust. Another thing I noticed was I do not hear that pause before the second compreser kicks in. I would go ahead and replace the PC board, but I do not understand why the low amp draw.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:11 PM   #8
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One check in the heat mode, early in the morning, spray water on the outside coil and see if both upper and lower half frost up.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:50 PM   #9
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Angry

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One check in the heat mode, early in the morning, spray water on the outside coil and see if both upper and lower half frost up.
will try that and let you know, but it will have to wait until fri. have to get an MRI tomorrow morning.:
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Old 05-18-2016, 06:07 PM   #10
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I had a problem of compressor #1 rubbing a copper line in the #2 circuit and lost all freon. I'm pretty sure it was pulling about 17 amps, so my suspicion is low or no freon in the #2 system.

In 2008 I documented the process of pulling the a/c out and repairing a couple of things inside. I've had this document available to forum members to download HERE I suggest you take a look at the steps to get it open and the recommendations that I and other members have made. I've gotten great feedback on the success that many members had repairing it themselves and saving big $$$.

In regards to repairing it or throwing it out. Mine is 12.5 yrs old and running strong, including 6 yrs fulltiming. Unless you have lots of rust or something big, all the major components are still available.

You may very well have an additional problem with the Coleman Mach thermostat. That multi-function slide switch is very problematic. It is two slide switches ganged together and as they wear out they don't settle into the precise connection and so it puts the control board into invalid states. Sometimes you can fiddle with the switch to get it to work correctly. I think some folks have found the t-stat on Amazon or Ebay for a very good price.

Good luck,
Bill
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:27 PM   #11
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Bill, I have read that link before and I just read it again before I read this message. Are you saying if I am low on freon that the compressor would pull less amps? Is there ports to test pressure and fill or would the tech have to add them? Good to hear from on the site, haven't seen any post from you lately.
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:02 PM   #12
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Bill, I have read that link before and I just read it again before I read this message. Are you saying if I am low on freon that the compressor would pull less amps? Is there ports to test pressure and fill or would the tech have to add them? Good to hear from on the site, haven't seen any post from you lately.
Yes, when the freon is low or empty, the compressor runs but is more or less just idling and doesn't nearly have to work as hard. So the current for #2 compressor is maybe 3 amp instead of 8-10 amps. In my case when it leaked out, it left a lot of oily residue on the outside coils, so it was pretty obvious. There are no schrader valves and it needs to be added for service.

I located a mobile A/C repair shop that does repairs on refrigerated semi-trailers. I had my unit pulled out with the lid off when he arrived. He soldered the hole in the leaky tube, added the schrader valve, and added the freon. He was in and out in 45 minutes and it cost me $113 as I recall. I took the time to clean the inside of the unit, especially the coils.
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:12 PM   #13
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One check in the heat mode, early in the morning, spray water on the outside coil and see if both upper and lower half frost up.
Did that this morning. after 45 minutes no frost upper or lower. I think I will follow Bills procedure and get the top off and see what is going on inside.
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:33 PM   #14
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I had good A/C performance, but poor heat performance on my C/M basement unit. Found that the electric wire spade connector to one of the reversing valve solenoid coils was loose. Re-crimping solved the problem. Suggest you inspect those connections when you have the top off.
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