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Old 01-01-2006, 04:54 AM   #1
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My water heater doesn't work on the 110 volt switch. The red light doesn't come on either. It was working when I left New Mexico & it quit working when I got to AZ. I realize this is just a 12 volt switch & I thought if the light burned out, it would still work. No 12 volt breakers are popped. I downloaded the wiring diagrams but I still can't figure out where the 12 volts comes from. Any clues?
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Old 01-01-2006, 04:54 AM   #2
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My water heater doesn't work on the 110 volt switch. The red light doesn't come on either. It was working when I left New Mexico & it quit working when I got to AZ. I realize this is just a 12 volt switch & I thought if the light burned out, it would still work. No 12 volt breakers are popped. I downloaded the wiring diagrams but I still can't figure out where the 12 volts comes from. Any clues?
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Old 01-01-2006, 06:41 AM   #3
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Go to "Find" on the toolbar & type in "water heater". You'll find some help there. Might be a reset sw on back of wtr htr.

Some folks say the Reset sw might pop if you turn On the elec wtr htr sw right after arriving at a campsite. The Motor Aid heater (from engine) apparently heats the wtr htr above the limits of the Reset switch, making it pop. I've discontinued that practice, waiting til cold water has flowed into the wtr htr to moderate the temp.

I've heard the the mfr has moved that sw to the front of the wtr htr, but don't know when (or if) that was done. If they have, it's not on the outside panel of the wtr htr panel on th 06 Winnies, cuz I looked yesterday at Lazydays gassers & DPs.

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Old 01-01-2006, 07:29 AM   #4
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I am pretty sure it is a bad switch because there is 12 volts at the switch & the light doesn't light. I can't figure how to get off the cover( bezel) to take off the switch. I think it should pry off, I have tried but breakage was coming before it came off.
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Old 01-01-2006, 12:46 PM   #5
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Since we have the same unit, I went out and took my wood cover off and can see the two screws coming through for the switch. My best "guess" is that the outer plastic cover must be pressure fit. I pried on mine a little but it wouldn't pop.

Please let us know how it comes off.

Warm but dreary here in MN. 30 and overcast.
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Old 01-01-2006, 01:51 PM   #6
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Dave, re:removing the bezel, it has 2 male/female attach points and mine broke when I tried to seperate them... If your dealer asks the same questions about the switch when you order, he will inquire, 2 wire or 3?..so you should probably take it off the wall before trying to order..If yours breaks you will need 3 pieces, a switch, and outer bezel, and an inner one.. My 3 pieces came to about 10/12 $ I'm not clear how this switch is wired either, mine lights the switch whether plugged in or not, the switch got hot, and caused the fusion of the pins/sockets.. Maybe I should turned the hose on em ...rgr...
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:08 PM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">My water heater doesn't work on the 110 volt switch. The red light doesn't come on either. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Do I understand you to say that your rig came with a red light that lights up when you have the water heater electric switch turned on? I have a light that lights when the gas is lit on the water heater, and a red light that indicates if the pilot has gone out, but there is no light to tell me the electric heating element is turned on. I've often wished there were, but no such luck.
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Old 01-01-2006, 04:23 PM   #8
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I got cover(bezel) off & I broke one of tips. I think these aren't made to take apart. The bulb was burned out but the heating coils should have worked! Without the light, maybe I never had it on! I am going to order one from Mobility R.V.. I have the part # off the downloaded drawings. I bought a 12 volt lighted switch from Walmart today & got that to work.
DonavonP Judging by the MN license plates here in AZ, you must be the only person up there.
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Old 01-02-2006, 05:59 AM   #9
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It is easy to put an AC water heater light on your Ultimate. You can get a light at Radio Shack, drill the appropriate size hole beside the switch, connect one lead to one of the leads on the switch, and the other one to a 12 volt power source behind the panel---presto.
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Old 01-02-2006, 09:42 AM   #10
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Dave, my 110 volt switch is just that a 110v switch. It has a red led that lights up when 110v is fed to the heating element on the back of the water heater. There is no 12volts involved. Do you have a other trouble point with a 110v relay involved operated by 12volts off your switch?
Had a friend with a problem where a dealer tech pushed a female spade clip into plastic space between male spade clip an plastic. The heat generated melted the plastic an clip fell out. He did this twice, after second time, I checked after friend complained and found this situation.
The red led would come on but heater wouldn't heat water, the ckt is fed from a 110 electric switch with a 110v led on it. 14GAGE wiring thru out switch to heater. 14 gage wire to back of water heater to wire spade clips on to heating element in tank. I fixed by putting female spade onto male clip correctly, its been working fine since.
The red led has nothing to do with heating element in tank from operating if the 110 switch is on, its just a indicator for you to see. "007"
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Old 01-02-2006, 05:29 PM   #11
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"007" This correct that light on the 110 volt switch just shows that the switch is on. But the same 12 volts that lights the light also operates a relay to feed 110 volt to the heater. There is no more 110 volts fed through the 110 volt switch(in a Winnebago) then there is gas fed through gas hot water switch. Just 12 volts fed to the water heater circuit board or relay. I don't know how Newmar does it.
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Old 01-03-2006, 09:00 AM   #12
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Thanks for the explain , Newmar does as I discribed 110 wiring up and thru 110 sw. to heater. Been the same on 3 coaches. Why would Winie do different I do have 12v and another sw. for gas operation. As long as you can get yours to work thats all that matters. "007"
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:53 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">It is easy to put an AC water heater light on your Ultimate. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
rnabors

Sounds like a good project ...the engine heater switch needs one too. Both switches are located up next to the ceiling and are dark brown. I put better labels on them to we could more easily tell them apart, but it still is not easy sometimes to tell whether or not they are switched on.
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Old 01-03-2006, 04:05 PM   #14
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The engine heater switch is 120 volt which would use a different light and hook up than the 12 volt water heater switch that I described earlier.
Good luck..
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Old 01-03-2006, 04:11 PM   #15
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Dave, If you find that 12 volt relay, I'd be interested in knowing its location.

Thanks,
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Old 01-03-2006, 07:27 PM   #16
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DonavonP If you look at your Atwood service manual page 7. They show a relay for a 6 gallon heater (fig 8) but the 10 gallon heater (fig 9 ) I am assuming that is what is on the bottom left. Also fig 12 (wiring diagrams) shows the relay. The relay of course is on the back side of water heater. I hope I never have to find out where!
In the 70's here today. Just about too hot!
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:04 AM   #17
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Thanks Dave. Sorry to hear about your heat stress. Hope the A/C holds up.
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Old 01-06-2006, 04:46 AM   #18
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Not that anyone cares,but I was looking at the panel in the hallway for a water heater switch and on the 2006 Vectra they put two switches there.
One switch turns the LP on and off for the water heater and is NOT lighted and the second switch turns the AC on for the water heater and is a <span class="ev_code_RED">red lighted</span> switch
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:47 AM   #19
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dave from MN:
I am pretty sure it is a bad switch because there is 12 volts at the switch & the light doesn't light. I can't figure how to get off the cover( bezel) to take off the switch. I think it should pry off, I have tried but breakage was coming before it came off. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Just in case other folks have to deal with this, I found out it's not necessary to remove the bezel to remove the switch. I just replaced mine because the light failed (although the switch still worked to turn on the 110V heating element). I paid $3 for a pair of the switches at my dealer (they came in a 2-pack). If you look at the new switch you can clearly see the four molded plastic spring clips which hold it in place. To remove it you need to take out the screws holding the whole OnePlace center in place so that you can get to the back of the switch. Detach the wires (keeping track of which is which) and apply gentle pressure on the back of the switch while freeing the clips with the end of a small screwdriver. The switch should come straight out through the bezel, and then you can just push the new switch back into place.
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