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Old 08-30-2006, 01:49 PM   #1
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I have a 2001 Itasca SunRise 30w. The furnace is located in the back. I am going to replace the limit switch on my furnace and wanted to know if anyone knew if I can do it with out removing the furnace? Or do I have to remove the furnace to replace the switch?
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:49 PM   #2
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I have a 2001 Itasca SunRise 30w. The furnace is located in the back. I am going to replace the limit switch on my furnace and wanted to know if anyone knew if I can do it with out removing the furnace? Or do I have to remove the furnace to replace the switch?
thanks
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Old 08-30-2006, 03:19 PM   #3
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If it's a Surburban I think you have to remove it. If so the good news is it's really easy to remove - unless they have changed them a lot in the last few years.
When I removed my 1996 model year one, after you remove the cover panel which involved removing 4 screws, there was a screw (in the lower middle front as I remember) that was labeled "Remove for Service". If you take that out and then disconnect the propane connection and an electrical connector, the furnace slides right out.
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Old 08-30-2006, 03:25 PM   #4
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Do you have a owners instruction sheet for your furnace if when you take off front panel and the print shows it up front you maybe able to change it. My furnace I can access both sides and into heat chamber its tight but can reach switch. Not sure how you might get to back side of your furnace. Under the bed maybe.
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Old 08-31-2006, 05:46 AM   #5
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It is a Surburban furance, SF35 I think. and I know that the limit switch is on the back. The trickie thing is that the furance is installed under the floor under the bed. Now there is a return air vent that leads down to the furnace through the bed pedistal, but I'm not sure if I can get at the back side of the furnace that way.

If I do have to take it out where are the propane connections and the eletric connection to undo? will I see them when I take the cover off?
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:22 AM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">If I do have to take it out where are the propane connections and the eletric connection to undo? will I see them when I take the cover off? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mine was on an outside wall and that's how it came out. The outside cover came off and you could see the stuff I was talking about.
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:46 AM   #7
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Is your return air vent removeable under your bed? If it is, try to see the switch and if you can access hope your a small fellow.
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Old 08-31-2006, 11:39 AM   #8
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007,
I was planning to take apart my return air vent under the bed first to see if I can get at it that way. I'm hoping I can see it there. If not guess I'll have to remove it.
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Old 08-31-2006, 01:44 PM   #9
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Save yourself some hassle and just take the furnace out through the cover on the outside. Turn off propane valve at tank, burn of residual LP at stove, remove line from furnace, remove 2 screws that hold furncace from sliding out, and disconnect power plug and then pull. Not more than 10 min work.
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Old 09-01-2006, 06:31 AM   #10
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Zertrider,
what about duct connection won't they be a pain to get back on when you put it back in.
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Old 09-01-2006, 07:21 PM   #11
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Nope, that's the beauty of the design. All the ducts are left connnected to the furnace shell that's left behind.
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Old 09-02-2006, 05:46 AM   #12
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No actual connection, the furnace pushes up against a gasket at the rear, thats the reason for the 2 screws that hold it from sliding. They hold it back against the duct.
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Old 09-02-2006, 11:30 AM   #13
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Hey, that sounds like a great design!
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:36 PM   #14
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Ok now I understand the desgin, I thought I would have to some how reach in there and disconnect the ducts. but now that I know I just have to slide it in and out I will probally just take it out and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it.

Thanks for the infor.
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:58 PM   #15
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OK I removed the furnace today, It was very simple,change the overtemp switch out. cleaned it out and reinstalled it. But I stil get the same problem, which is: The blower comes on in 30 seconds the burner lights, it then burns for 2 or 3 mins then the burner shuts off but the fan stays on in about 2 or 3 mins the burner comes back on, again stays on for 2 or 3 mins then the burner turns off again. This cycyle repeats itself untill the rv get to the temp the thermostat is set too.

any one have any idea? I have check all the ducts and return air and find no blockage.
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Old 09-10-2006, 04:53 AM   #16
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I think the furnace detects the presence of the flame by measuring the resistance of the flame across the ignitor. If the flame moves away from the ignitor or if the ignitor is crudded up it may think the flame is out, close the gas valve and restart the cycle.
If that is okay the PC board might be having hiccups.
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Old 09-10-2006, 07:54 AM   #17
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I did inspect the burner and ignitor and they looked clean. But I will look in to flame detection some more, it something to check.
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Old 09-10-2006, 01:24 PM   #18
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This looks like a classic case of unbalace between the fire and the circulating air. Either you have too much fire, Possible cause excessive propane pressure, over 11 inches water gage, or a reamed-out burner tip from being cleaned with as hard object such as needle or tip clean.
Or alternativly too little air flow. Possible causes obstruction of grills or ductwork or A dirty circulating fan. Household dust and grime will build up inside the fan blades and drastically reduce the the fan capacity.
A third possiblity would be short circutting(?) of the hot air output directly into the suction side either from leaks or poorly located grills.
Good luck
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Old 09-11-2006, 05:11 AM   #19
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Dick,
Thanks for all the ideas, I'll have to get a gage to check the propane pressure. I'll also check the fan, I did a check all the ducting, return and heating, and they are all clear. I'll also check to see if the hot air is somehow returning to the furnace.

Interresting when I 1st started trying to solve this problem a yr ago my return air is a grill on the side of my bed pedistal, that feeds into a pletum which feeds through a hole in the floor to the furnace. That hole in the floor was 3/4's coverd in plastic (the kind they use to cover the rug during manufacturing) I removed it and thought I was set but to no avail.

thanks again.
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:08 AM   #20
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OK, Well I spent another saterday working on the furnace with no results. 1st I check all the ducts, I have a cheap web cam that I hooked up to my laptop and taped a small flashlight to it and pushed it down the ducts, all I saw was dirt nickels, & dimes, but it all looked clear.

Then I removed the furnace and tested on saw horses behind the MH, I got a 24 inch section of flexiable gas tubing for a dryier to hook it to the propane in the MH. It ran for a little longer but then it still shut off on the high temperature switch. All the fans look clean so now I'm at a loss now for what is the problem.

I don't have a gage to measure the propane pressure and couldn't find one at the hardware store. SO I guess I'll take it in.

I think it has something to do with the burnner, for some reason I think it's burning too hot.
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