2022 Forza 36H Power SHED Warning

[Snipechief]

I'm trying to run my rear heat pump due to cold wx and I don't want to use all my propane up, but when I try to start it the SHED Warning comes on. I don't have the other ac on, so it shouldn't try to shed electricity. The coach is a 50 amp rig but, I'm connected to a 30 amp pedestal at this CG., but I'm only drawing 10 amps.
Does the heat pump need to be reset some how.

[Blue Sky]

Good Morning, Chief,
... 10 amps as the only draw shouldn't make a difference, but the only issue I can think of is the setting showing your input into the PMS- the initial setting of how many amps you're connected to.

I've never had 50 amp service so can't comment on how the current is distributed when plugged into 30 amps.

[Morich]

I am not that up on using the 50 amp RV but I think this is more a basic thing of what power you are getting, rather than settings.
When you are plugged to 50 amp, you have two hot wires, one neutral and one ground which lets you pull a combined 50 amps of power.
But when plugged into an adapter to go to 30 amps plugs, the second hot wire is not connected! That one remaining hot wire can still draw the same amount of power as before and will never go over 30 amp.

Where I think you are is that you are not connected to power the the other hot wire!

How that is shown and how the RV reacts is likely to be what you are seeing. How each RV will note this is likely different but "shed" seems a little misleading as the truth is not that the equipment has not shed the power but it is not connected!

Not putting two legs of hot in, so the RV says you "shed" one?

There are two versions of your RV, early and late. The change does seem to be in this part of the RV. Do you have a 7th digit of 1 or is it 2? That tells us which early or late build and we can look at the correct drawings to show how this may be set up on your RV.
Check the serial number on the label next to the driver and we can get a bit more info passed along on what I think is going on?

OR
Go here, choose correct RV and then 110 wiring diagram to go direct to the correct, if you are into the drawings?
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm

[creativepart]

One thing to consider is when on a 30-amp shore power connection you EMS will start shedding loads BEFORE you get to 30-amp. I notice mine shedding loads around 28 amps.

And, the EMS keeps track of the peak loads your appliance used in it's last run experience. So, if when your A/C last ran the compressor if the highest amp load when the compressor started was close to 20-amps then that's what the EMS will use in it's calculations.

When on 30-amp shore power you want to use as little amps as possible if you want to run the A/C Heat Pump at the same time. Make sure the water heater is not on electric and that the furnace is not on. Refrain from microwave usage, too.

In short, in a 50-amp motorhome you have 100-amps of electrical service - 50-smps on each of the two legs of the connection. So you get spoiled with the freedom to run everything. However, connecting to 30-amp shore power is a 70% reduction in available power to run your power hungry RV.

When on 30-amp it can feel like your EMS is doing you no favors, but it's working hard to keep you from being your own worse enemy.

[Snipechief]

Thanks for pushing me in the right direction. It's working. The EMS shore power was set to 15 amps which I don't understand because we've traveled for 9 days using 50 amp shore power. Anyway I just set it 30 amps, and now it's running. Thanks for the help.

[Ray,IN]

Thanks for posting your results.
Creativepart is correct a 30A breaker is rated for 28A continuous-duty, however it will withstand the full 30A for a short while.
This is how the 30>50 dogbone is wired: This is the explanation: https://www.rvandplaya.com/how-does-...-adapter-work/