Upgrading 30 amp to 50 amp on 2022 2529RG...

[TwoFrom93449]

We are very frustrated with the pricing on the new production run of 2022 2529RGs with 50 amp service (low $40K range). The price has increased $8K-10K (about $4k for Freight & Shipping and another $6K on the base price). There are still several of the earlier 2022 2529RGs with 30 amp service available for low $30K range.

I do not think the "smart switching" on the earlier 2022 models, that allows the 30amp service to run two ACs works well. Multiple people say the 13.5K bedroom AC will run, but not produce much cooling. I'm not an electrician, but it would seem that the "smart switching" system could be replaced (eliminated) with the necessary components to allow all of the existing electrical system including the main 15K AC to run off of a 30 amp portion of the 50 amp service if only 30 amps is available (or you don't need the BR AC), and wire the bedroom 13.5K AC to run off another breaker when 50 amp service is available. We have been in the southwest in the summer when our single AC is just barely able to keep us cool. This will probably be our last RV, so we would like to have things right. But not sure that justifies spending an extra $10K!

I understand that this involves more than just a new power cord.

Thank you.

[BarryLS]

Yep, you should be able to do that. No magic involved, a good RV electrical technician should be able to do it for you.

[TwoFrom93449]

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to talk to an ace RV electrician that does custom coach stuff tomorrow. See what he thinks. Of course Winnebago says that it can't be done. With the price of the current production run of 50amp 2529RGs $8-10K above what we can buy an early 2022 30amp model for, I am giving it some serious thought.

[BarryLS]

I don't really care what Winnebago thinks. Think of it this way, all you have to do is disconnect the 13.5K AC unit from the regular 30a service and connect to a separate 110 supply and you have it, so you know it's possible. The electrician just needs to split the current from the incoming 50a service. I'm not familiar with the wiring on your coach so can't tell you how it needs to be wired, but impossible it is not. And I'm sure it would be a lot less than 8-10K

[TwoFrom93449]

Thanks Barry, exactly how I see it. My next task is getting a wiring diagram for the 2529RG. I'm hoping it is possible to just eliminate the "load balancing" component altogether.

[BobC]

I know it's not the question you asked and I'm not familiar with the 2529RG but many owners of older MHs have converted from 30A to 50A service, so that's a possibility as well. I have no idea what it would cost but I'd expect it would be less than $10k. There are many DIY threads on this. The most difficult part is running new, larger gauge wiring from the automatic transfer switch (which is most likely already a 50A model) to the breaker panel. The rest involves changing out the shore power cord, main breaker and some straightforward re-wiring. Here's one of several threads on this:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3842611

On the other hand, I like the additional 110V approach since, even if your MH was wired for 50A, if only 30A shore power was available, you'd still have an issue.

[TwoFrom93449]

Thanks Bob. I found an RV shop near us that works on custom coaches, they said the swap to 50 amp could be done. I will visit them with our wiring diagram in hand to get an estimate.
Take care,
John Larson

[BarryLS]

Originally Posted by TwoFrom93449

Thanks Bob. I found an RV shop near us that works on custom coaches, they said the swap to 50 amp could be done. I will visit them with our wiring diagram in hand to get an estimate.
Take care,
John Larson

That's probably the better way of doing it. Wiring and fusing upgrading will be required.

If I were doing it I'd keep the 30 service internally but change to a 50amp incoming and disconnect the AC breaker from the 30a supply. It would then be easy to add a terminal and protection for the a new AC supply coming off the 50amp service. I *think* that would be much less expensive since it doesn't require a lot of replacement. It would certainly be easier for me to do.

[corvetteSS]

I don't know what distribution panel you have, but if you can replace it with a WF-8930/50NP you can then upgrade the "source" lines to 50 amp, (transfer switch? generator?) with the external cabling. All the circuits would just transfer to the new panel,

you may need a new converter (for DC 12V) like a progressive dynamics in 45,60 or whatever compatible amperage you have. (keep your current wiring in mind)..
The problem is the cost of the upgraded source/cables, and fishing then through the RV. They are not $8K though.

[TwoFrom93449]

Thank you, going to the shop that works on high end coaches tomorrow. We are in a trailer, no generator. We just want to know if this is possible.
John

[rhardwick]

I know this an old post, did you convert to 50 amp?

I'm in the same boat as you, I have a 2021 Minnie 2529RG w/30 AMP service. For the most part it works running both A/C's at the same time. However if I run both units along with the water heater when I first setup the internal 30 amp breaker will trip. I use a surge protector for the pedestal using a 50 amp to 30 amp adaptor.
I'm wanting to replace the distribution panel to 50 amp, change the plug and wiring to the panel.
Thanks

[Morich]

A much less complex with less cost may be much simpler on some RV.
When we switch 30 to 50, we are not changing from 110 to 220 but getting two different 110 feeds!
That means we don't have to change out lots wires to larger or much of that stuff but just rearrange and add a few parts to move something like one AC unit over to a new feed.
One simple way to do this is to leave much of what you have, add a new cord and breaker for something that may look like a simple new 110 line alongside the old. As part of the new install one can rewire any number of items from the old to the new.

Less complex, easier and cheaper but with the downside of having two cords to plug in, one for the existing and one for the new when you want to run both AC at the same time. This can often do what is needed as many large 30 or 50 plugs as well as a 110 plug.
Both have their good points but just an alternate to consider, depending on what you feel fits you best? I always just adjusted what I did and used propane to heat the water as the low stress way to go!

[TwoFrom93449]

We live in CA, so only face severe heat on our long trips. We are finished with warranty, and adding our personal touches, so I will be exploring the cost of adding another 110V service for the BR AC. I know the wiring for the BR AC comes all the way to the panel under the stove, so don't think it will be too costly. Not sure if we will put access through an outside wall or underneath.

[Morich]

For the occasional use, it might fit to consider doing a bit of mod rather than adding a whole lot for full time?
Maybe leave the current setup, but make another route to get power to one of the air when needed in hot times?
Since you are not needing a whole new panel but likely just one breaker for one AC, perhaps, leave both AC as they are but add a heavy duty switch to choose if one AC is with the others or flip the switch to move it to a secondary breaker and cord.
Perhaps a loose cord that has a plug and outlet at the RV end. When needing the extra power, pull the cord out of storage where you hide it out of the way, plug into shore power and flip heavy duty switch from normal to aux power?

Lots of things to study in between trips when we get trapped into working??

[TwoFrom93449]

I think we will leave the main AC as is, on the 30amp panel. The BR AC is too noisy for us to run while sleeping. We have run the main AC at night occasionally, it is far enough away to lessen the noise. We have been in extreme heat (Southwest, Las Vegas, etc.) when we wished we could run both ACs on full blast. I'm still planning on the separate 110V cable that will plug into another plug on the pedestal, as Morich suggested. I am not sure what is necessary in the way of another panel, etc. I would like to have this service a 110V plug in the lower back cabinet. When we need the the BR AC we plug a heavy extension cord into that plug. A male/male pigtail would be required.

We have never used to outdoor shower, and I have already cut a hole for our Starlink cable in the back of that enclosure. The cable exits through a u-shaped hole in the bottom of the outside shower hatch/door. I will probably use a similar route for the 110V cable I am envisioning for the BR AC. Seems I come up with other modifications/projects once we escape the heat!

[Morich]

Are you familiar with the cord arrangement on some of the newer small, van type RV?

Some have an outlet built in the side of the RV ,making it water tight. Then when wanting to plug in, the cord is pulled out of storage, plugged to the outlet with a water tight screw type cap/fitting and run to the power.
Kind of like an extension cord run to a lamp except heavy duty?

Something like this but there are dozens of different designs and different pricing to fit what you feel is right. A port of your choice to mount and wire to a breaker, then add a matching cord to go to the power outlet?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/30AMP-125...erId=101692728
Sometimes I like to get hands on to judge things and this is one which I know I can take back very easily if not suiting me!

[TwoFrom93449]

We will have our trailer two years in August, and still on our stock L/A battery. We did add a Renogy battery monitor, which is great. I'll probably switch to a Progressive Dynamics converter when we dig into the new circuit for the BR AC. I don't like the mess of wires behind the panel, and the PD converter will make us ready for a Lithium battery if we decide to switch.

Everyone might want to close the holes to the underbelly area. One under the shower, one under the shower-side dinette, and a tough one to deal with under the stove/refer. We were backed into a site against the "wild" and ended up trapping two rats that got in a hole around the kitchen gray dump line.

[rhardwick]

I have contacted Winnebago support and waiting for a reply. The 30 amp service is barely enough power and you have to be careful turning on too much. Last trip (we are in Texas) when I got to the camp site I turned on both A/C units to cool the RV along with the electric part for the water heater. This tripped the 30 amp breaker in the distribution panel inside.
Generally I run the BR A/C during the day and the main at night. In the heat I'll run both. Sometimes I have to leave my dog in the RV for a few hours and my fear is the 30 amp breaker will trip. Turning the water heater off and on is a pain and most of the time I'll forget. I can run it on propane but then it will need to be powered when needed to conserve the propane.
Currently I use a 50 to 30 amp surge protector on the pedestal for better power. Most of the 30 amp plugs are worn out and are a loose connection.
I'd rather take the time to replace the internal distribution panel to 50 amp along with a new outside connector and wiring to the panel. This will eliminate the EMS!!
Anyone had any luck getting a wiring diagram for towable RV's? All I see on Winnebago's website are wiring diagrams for motorhomes.

[creativepart]

Be aware that the electric side of the water heater is, all by itself, a very high wattage draw and because it can be used on propane would never be something to run on AC in a 30-amp RV when running two A/C units.

If you want to conserve LP then just turn off the water heater when showering, etc is completed. No need to keep the water in the heater fully hot all day and night - just when you need it.

[powercat_ras]

If you have a basement compartment that you can put a power cord pass thru on consider the following...

- Put the 2nd AC romex thru that basement compartment and put Male/Female NEMA 20A 120 VAC plug and socket on it.

NOTE: On the one travel trailer I once owned the space under the bed went against outside walls up by the side tables and that was where the gravity fill and vent lines for the fresh water tank routed so that might be another place you could do this setup vs. basement, if the bed has a lift up base with access to get to the plug/sockets and inside of the cable access door, and to move the plug/sockets positions.

- Put the romex between the breaker box and the Microwave / HWH switcher thru that basement compartment and put a Male/Female NEMA 15A 120 VAC plug and socket on it.

- Install a small 6 space breaker box and put 20A breaker for AC and 15A breaker for HWH/Microwave in it. The feed side of that breaker box is a short 10 gauge cord that ends in a NEMA 30A RV male plug. The 20A goes to a female 120 VAC 20A socket. The 15A goes to a female 120 VAC 15A socket , both from the 2nd breaker box.

- buy a 50 A male to two 30A female adapter.

- buy a 30A RV male/female extension cord.

- buy a passthru door you can mount so that you can pass in the 30A extension cord into the basement compartment.

When you have 50A you plug the 50A to 30A x 2 adapter in, connect your normal 30A cord to one, and the 30A extension cord to the other. The female end of the extension cord goes to the 30A male plug on the 2nd breaker box. You unplug the Male AC plug and the Male HWH/Microwave plug from the normal sockets and move them to the sockets fed from the 2nd breaker box.

You have 30A x 2 power fed to the RV , not quite 50A x 50A but allows both AC and Microwave to run at same time without any breaker trips. You also have a lot of head room on the OEM 30A as the AC will draw only around 15 A once it gets started and going so you can use a cooking appliance or bathroom appliance without a trip.

I labeled the Normal sockets Green and the 50A mode sockets Red so I could distinguish them quickly. The diferent plugs for the 20A AC and 15A HWH/MW alows those to be quickly distinguished.

I did all of this on my Vista RV rather than trying to tear out the 30A breaker box and 10 gauge OEM wiring. For me on my Vista this whole project cost less than $ 100.

The only other thing I do with this is use NO-OX-ID A-Special- Electrical Contact Grease on the blades of the in-line plugs and the blades of the 30 amp plugs to make sure they make the best possible contact and have minimimal voltage drop and heating across them.