Proflex on Roof Radius Joint

[cruizerEd]

Mine Profex has been up about a year. I cleaned the area very thoroughly, first mechanically, then with turpentine, then with water. I used spacers to get a heavy bead in with large vertical contact area. I probably have 1/4 or more deep bead of 1/8 inch thick Geocell. With the spacers the Geocell didn't squeeze back out if I let it sit for a week or so. I then pulled the spacers which were heavy gauge coper wire. I shot some geocell down the holes they left. I was a lot of work. I hope it holds.

The top edge is weathering but the stuff is so deep I doubt the weathering effects much of it. It is still adhering well. With the thickness of the bead I would imagine it could hold the roof down even with out much adhesion.

[meyeet]

Originally Posted by bpcannan

Do you have insight on my problem...
2010 Journey Express 34Y...front cap to roof area issue
flat part of roof has what appears to be the original manus bond sealant and looks in great shape - cannot find cracks or anything - HOWEVER - I have just started to develop a water seepage issue where the roof curves over. I found some cracks and gaps so I cleaned out the old, wiped thoroughly with mineral spirits and goof-off, let it dry. The using the call-out sheet I applied and finger trowled for smoothness the Stone Mason sealant (0944-01-000) from the winnebago parts catalog to no avail. I have done this twice and can't seem the fix the issue. The sealant I am using is Sealant E which they say can be a substitute for Sealant C. I have watched some AZExpert and he speaks of Proflex Geocell. I am confused and a bit frustrated. Any insights that you can offer? Should I go with Proflex? Should I just use the Manus bond. Any help or thoughts are appreciated. I have been all over my roof on my hands and knees exploring all the seals around everything up there and the water issue Only manifests itself in the driver side cupboard above the driver side window and the cupboard on the passenger side above the door - so I have assumed it is coming in thru the radius where the cap meets the roof. My radius that runs the length of the coach is in great shape so I have ruled that out.

Thanks for any help.
Brian

Just dealt with this same issue. For us it was a leak in the upper drivers side windshield seal. Small and wouldn't drip all the time but it did some interior damage before being found. Could see some rust along the upper edge of the windshield that is hidden by all the cabinet coverings.

1 month into a new windshield and so far appears to have been fixed.

[Sullivanclan]

"RV Street" YouTube swears by the Loctite product for the roof radius.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Sullivanclan

"RV Street" YouTube swears by the Loctite product for the roof radius.

I understand the trust we put in YouTubers, I do it myself, but I think it’s better to follow the advice of the Winnebago factory in most things. The Loctite product is a polyethylene caulk. I don’t know that it’s not appropriate but it’s not something you see suggested by the factory or other professionals. It may be great but be careful and do some more research.

[Upinsmoke]

I'm just kind of following along here as my roof radius needs to be redone AGAIN this year. So far, previous sealings have lasted a year and a half to two years. It would be nice if we could all find a product with longevity.

It looks to me like we (collectively) have used and/or recommended the following: Proflex, Manus Bond 75, Locktite PL540 and I've also used Stone Mason Siding and gutter seal. Did I miss any? Does there appear to be a clear "winner" or is it more personal preference at this point?

One previous poster was going to try coating the sealer with something like Flex Seal to try and protect it from UV rays. Don't know if that ever worked out. I'm not sure what I'm going with this time, but I do know that cleaning out the old stuff is no fun.

Here's to finding a longer term solution!

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Upinsmoke

Here's to finding a longer term solution!

Many Winnieowners have had success with covering the Manus Bond with Eternabond tape. It can be a pain to remove completely but it's not necessary to do so when it's time to re-do everything. It's my understanding that the stick residue doesn't have to be removed to re-apply.

[jspringator]

Add Silkiflex 291 to the list. The problem with covering with Eternabond is there is no way to check the seal. Then, when you are heading down the road in Northern Iowa in strong winds the roof lifts up. That is what started this saga for me. There is not enough surface area on the gutter to hold down the roof.

[Americanrascal]

As indicated in the 1st post on this thread I cleaned out and re-installed sealant/ adhesive on a 3 ft section of the roof joint last week after the year old application of fresh Proflex in that section had failed. I had found the filon loose and not secured in the joint, even with what had been a thorough application during last year's cleaning and repair.

My report last week was a I went ahead and installed a new application of Proflex (which I somehow managed in spite of an exploding tube of the stuff). I had been worried that the results of this new repair would be another Proflex failure resulting in no sealing or adhesive qualities.

This morning, in anticipation of a road trip next week, I went to the roof and repair area to see the results of last weeks Proflex application. I was surprised to find a very good seal and a firmly adhered section of filon in the repair area joint groove. I had full well expected to find soft, weak and unset Proflex in the application area.

I'm going to have to monitor this area closely to see how it holds up. It looks great and feels firmly set at the moment. If it holds up I may continue to use Proflex. I'll have to think on it as the failure I found last week of the previous years application spooked me . I may try some Manus Bond again on some of the other areas to compare (and maybe even some Loctite?)

Just passing along my findings.

Joe

[bigb]

Originally Posted by Americanrascal

As indicated in the 1st post on this thread I cleaned out and re-installed sealant/ adhesive on a 3 ft section of the roof joint last week after the year old application of fresh Proflex in that section had failed. I had found the filon loose and not secured in the joint, even with what had been a thorough application during last year's cleaning and repair.

My report last week was a I went ahead and installed a new application of Proflex (which I somehow managed in spite of an exploding tube of the stuff). I had been worried that the results of this new repair would be another Proflex failure resulting in no sealing or adhesive qualities.

This morning, in anticipation of a road trip next week, I went to the roof and repair area to see the results of last weeks Proflex application. I was surprised to find a very good seal and a firmly adhered section of filon in the repair area joint groove. I had full well expected to find soft, weak and unset Proflex in the application area.

I'm going to have to monitor this area closely to see how it holds up. It looks great and feels firmly set at the moment. If it holds up I may continue to use Proflex. I'll have to think on it as the failure I found last week of the previous years application spooked me . I may try some Manus Bond again on some of the other areas to compare (and maybe even some Loctite?)

Just passing along my findings.

Joe

Thanks for the update which really helps everyone. I also suspect movement before the Proflex has fully cured to be a problem as I believe the roof structure moves and flexes while driving but maybe your first application was expired product as you stated you waited a week before moving the rig? I remember a post where someone did their whole roof but didn't wait long enough before driving and when they arrived at their destination a lot of it had separated. I have heard 24 hours but I don't believe it, especially if it's a thicker application.

[Americanrascal]

Big B- I tend to think your analysis is likely correct, although I remember that I did let it sit for a good several weeks before using the rig last year. I'm pretty firm on waiting at least 7 days for set and cure before movement. I'm thinking- or hoping-- maybe last years application was with a bad batch of Proflex? I'll monitor the application of Proflex last week and will post any updates of conditions that I find. Have a 500 mile trip next week and will check it. Thanks to all for the input.

[floridabob]

if you use mineral spirits of ggof off to clean an area that you are going to calk , they are oil based and will leave a film. you must clean that area with alcohol or acetone to have a good adhesion.

[bigb]

Originally Posted by floridabob

if you use mineral spirits of ggof off to clean an area that you are going to calk , they are oil based and will leave a film. you must clean that area with alcohol or acetone to have a good adhesion.

I actually used lacquer thinner followed by wax and grease remover prep for paint on the aluminum side (smells just like Zippo lighter fluid), on the fiberglass side I repainted base coat/clear coat and applied directly after a week of allowing the paint to cure.

[Park Super]

proflex vs manus bond......I have used both. Most recently, January, I cleaned out the old factory adhesive, drivers side, and used proflex. Last week I found the material had failed in several places and had not cured in others. I had previously used manus bond on the passenger side, two years now and the bond is still perfect. I had high hopes for the proflex but had to remove it all and replace with manus bond. This is alot of work to have to repeat in 6 months.....will never use proflex again!

[creativepart]

Good report Martin. I used Manus Bond 75 on a small cap radius leak and it worked well and has held up well, but it was tough to work with. It’s very black, very thick and gets on everything.

It expected ProFlex to be great because of James’ high praise for it.

This is a job I have not had to do yet. But I’m keeping my eye on those drip rails.

[cruizerEd]

Originally Posted by creativepart

It expected ProFlex to be great because of James’ high praise for it. rails.

I wrote James about the fast weathering on some profex and he was cavalier about it saying I should "just replace it". I suspect he may not have an owner perspective on wanting things that last as long as reasonable.

On my joint I contrived to get a deep heavy bead instead of letting it all squeeze out the way james does. I am hoping that the small weather I am seeing on the top will not effect the whole bead because it is so deep.

[BobC]

Who's James?

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by BobC

Who's James?

AZ EXPERT on YouTube. He's the guy that posts all those Winnebago roof repair videos.

[BobC]

I know AZ Expert's videos very well, I just never heard him referred to as James.

[4x4van]

Everyone continues to try finding an alternative to Manus Bond, but what has to be remembered is that Manus Bond is not just a sealant, it is an adhesive (which is likely THE most important consideration). That joint, the way it is designed, really is in no need of sealant. It IS in need of adhesive. For those with white or black roofs, I see no need to re-invent the wheel, even though it is not the easiest stuff to work with. For those with painted roofs, my condolences.

[youracman]

One of the most interesting/informative threads out there for WBGO owners, IMHO. My 'sperience is similar to that documented; but I'll add it to the thread, just for grins.

I just stumbled onto the fact that I had a lot of bad/missing sealant there at the J rail so I removed it and cleaned it with mineral spirits + isopropyl alcohol and applied the Proflex. Daughter and grandkidz took off for AZ a couple of days later (too soon?) They were gone for weeks and when I decided to ck the sealant again (about 7 wks after application) I found longitudinal cracking ……….. a v-e-r-y fine single crack right down the center, over about 80 percent of its length. (Good adhesion to the filon and the aluminum, though.) I was of the opinion that the small amt of "normal" coach racking while jostling down the road caused it ….. and I should have let it cure for a week before use. No warnings on the tube about that though. I removed some of the Proflex but it was such a tough go that after about 5 feet, I just gave up and resealed it. Then I covered all of it with an uninterrupted run of 2" EB tape, using their cleaner and a 2" hard rubber roller. It has been up there about 6 years (and about 25K miles) now; that EB tape looks almost as good as when installed. I do check the cove areas at the ends of that EB tape and reseal (with Proflex) ……. pretty much needed yearly. Of course I really don't know how things are holding up under that tape……maybe a fool's paradise kind of thing. Jim Hi-Tek (posts on iRV2 occasionally) had the EB tape job done in Mexico on his Class A and I believe his has been up there (and OK) for longer than mine.

Good times and safe travels, all.