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Old 09-14-2013, 12:25 PM   #1
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hot water heater

We replaced the thermostat and spark probe on our 2003 journey motorhome. Cannot get the water heater to light now. Any suggestions?
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:15 PM   #2
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Make model of water heater?
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:45 PM   #3
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Was it working before the parts change? Are you getting a spark? Do you smell gas as it cycles? Does the stove light? Did you clean the burner tube? Did you set the points correctly?
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:55 PM   #4
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Why did you change them? Were you having problems
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:56 PM   #5
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it is a atwood water heater. It was working somewhat before he replaced the thermostat. The problem we have is the thermal fuse kept blowing out after hot water heater was on for a couple of days. Now we have juice to the thermal but not any further so now it will not light. We have 2003 Winnebago journey DL. Could he have installed the thermostat wrong. We have a had this unit for a few months so we are trying to work all the bugs out of it.
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:59 AM   #6
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Darlee, here is a starting point for you: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...2011.19.07.pdf

If you get the thermostat kit there are 2 buttons in it. They must be installed correctly, wires on correct button and springs in place with the foam cover installed. The gap on the electrodes must be positioned correctly and set to the correct opening. If you are not getting a spark with everything above being correct, remove the connector to the ignition control board and clean the terminals. Also clean the ground wire connection.

I hope to see a post of success from you soon.

Rick
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:24 AM   #7
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Thank you Rick for that information. My next question is can you confuse the thermostat button with the ceo button?
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:38 AM   #8
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Take the thermal fuse out of the circuit (for testing only) and see if unit works. Might be bad thermal.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:29 PM   #9
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YEAH!!!!!!! The hot water heater works. Thank you for all the helpful hints. He tried everyone of them but come to find out he had the red wires and brown wires crossed. that's why it would not start. Ladies if your husband is color blind like mine is, you might want to help them out when they are putting the wires back on. (:. Thank you again. I love this forum so very glad I found it.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:27 PM   #10
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Ok one more question about the hot water heater. Should water be dripping out of the pressure relief valve when the hot water heater is running? it is an atwood 10gal in a 2003 journey dl
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:54 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Darlee View Post
Ok one more question about the hot water heater. Should water be dripping out of the pressure relief valve when the hot water heater is running? it is an atwood 10gal in a 2003 journey dl
No is the short answer. But the problem is not uncommon. Many TP valves have been changed because of this. The lever on the top can be operated to let water out. Doing so allows air into the tank but also clears debris that may be in the valve.

To do this safely first shut the burner off and run water through the tank from a faucet until it is cool. Open the TP valve by lifting the lever and let some water flow.

Shut the water off coming into the coach and make certain that the pump is off. Remove the drain plug and open the TP valve. Drain the tank.

The draining of the tank is a good routine to do a couple of times a year. There is a hose adapter that is a plastic tube made for this process and can be found in RV stores. Blast water through the drain with this device until you are satisfied the tank is clean.

Put the plug back in but first put several wraps of teflon pipe tape on it. Be careful not to overtighten it. Close the TP valve and turn the water supply back on. Open the water faucets (all of them) to clear all of the air out of the lines.

Check the plug for leakage. If all is well and the TP is not dripping relight the heater. All should be well now but keep an eye on it. If the TP leaks again in a day or two it will have to be replaced.

I hope this helps.

Rick Y
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:33 PM   #12
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thank you.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:40 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Darlee View Post
thank you.
You are welcome. And good job on the fix. DH has a great DW.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:07 PM   #14
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Perhaps you can solve a mystery for me as well regarding water heater issues. I have a Gas/Electric heater but the electric side doesn't seem to do anything. Does the electric side just help keep the water hot or can it do the entire job by itself? As I said, my elec switch on or off doesn't seem to make any difference but the gas definitely heats the water. Any thoghts?
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:39 PM   #15
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Electric does the job by itself, we seldom use propane.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:55 PM   #16
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If the electric water heater was ever turned on with the WH empty (no water in the tank) it fries the heating element. And of couse check the breakers and power to the element. The element is a large 1.25" nut with two wires on it on the back of the WH
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:33 PM   #17
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What chief02 said is my first actions too. The electric element is an ordinary household 120VAC element. You simply purchase the same size and amp draw for your RV water heater. You'll need the metal socket wrench too, buy it at the same time if you even need the element.
If the breaker is good you'll have 120VAC at the element terminals, so disconnect from shore power before removing the wires.
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:16 AM   #18
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Thanks folks, you've given some good ideas... Take care...
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtstriker View Post
Perhaps you can solve a mystery for me as well regarding water heater issues. I have a Gas/Electric heater but the electric side doesn't seem to do anything. Does the electric side just help keep the water hot or can it do the entire job by itself? As I said, my elec switch on or off doesn't seem to make any difference but the gas definitely heats the water. Any thoghts?
I suggest a tad bit of troubleshooting. I hope you have a multimeter onboard. If not pick one up. You'll be surprised how handy they are.

Find where your heating element is located. Remove any cover to gain access to the terminal connections. Carefully measure the AC voltage across the terminals. If you see 120VAC you know the element is bad. If not the trouble is somewhere else.

Your element is not quite the same as in a household water heater. They are built a bit more rugged to withstand the vibrations not found in the common house. I know many RVers use the HD/Lowes one but I tend to lean toward the RV store model.

If you have to replace it check what size wattage and length you have. All of this information is available in your owners information package or from the manufacturer via model #.

Because of some physical limitations, I was unable to physically break the heating element loose in my last RV for replacement. I hope you don't have that problem. When you do replace an element I recommend putting anti -seize compound on the thread.

Don't forget to shut off the water and power to the heater before doing the replacement. Then remove the drain plug out side and open the valve on the temperature/pressure safety device.

Hope all goes well and easy for you.
Rick
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:07 AM   #20
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Thanks Rick....
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