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Old 03-22-2008, 02:46 PM   #1
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Took my Journey out today to exercise it. When I got back, with engine idling, I noticed a buzzing sound coming from under the dash. Shut off engine, no buzzing with ignition off. Turn on ignition, buzzing returns.

No warning lights or alarms. All systems, including air levels, OK.

Any ideas?

Happy Easter!
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Old 03-22-2008, 02:46 PM   #2
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Took my Journey out today to exercise it. When I got back, with engine idling, I noticed a buzzing sound coming from under the dash. Shut off engine, no buzzing with ignition off. Turn on ignition, buzzing returns.

No warning lights or alarms. All systems, including air levels, OK.

Any ideas?

Happy Easter!
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Old 03-22-2008, 03:01 PM   #3
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Could it be the vacuum pump for the ac/heat controls?

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Old 03-22-2008, 11:06 PM   #4
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That's my guess too
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Old 03-23-2008, 02:55 AM   #5
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I agree with the others since this is such a common problem with Journeys. With the ignition on, trying switching your dash heat/ac controls to other positions - like from OFF to VENT. If the noise stops, check out this thread.
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Old 03-23-2008, 07:31 AM   #6
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I just went out and did a quick check to test the therory. Ignition on, engine off. Moved heater control from 'off' to 'vent'. Buzzing was still there.

I'll recheck it again later today as I had a phone call to take, but first test didn't pan out.
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Old 03-23-2008, 08:40 AM   #7
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Don - one little "PS" to the test...If it is a loose vacuum connection, the buzz will continue for several seconds after you switch to vent. You might also try opening the "hood" - the vacuum pump and vacuum reservior (softball size and shape sphere) are on the right and you should hear it much clearer there.
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:24 AM   #8
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Guess what!! I now had a chance to test it more thoroughly, and just as Tom has described, it does go away when I turn it to defroster, after about 10 seconds. I opened the hood, and could hear the pump on the right side. It would stop once I actuated 'defroster'.


Tom, thanks for the other post as well (along with Jeff and Jim). I think this one is nailed!

Looked at the actuator, and sure enough, the little rubber tube is cracked where the green line comes in. Interestingly, my coach is only a little over a year old. You'd think Winnie would have implemented a fix on this by now.

I'm going to wait to a warmer day to effect repairs (about 25F here today) but I think the diagnosis you all have offered is spot on.

This forum is great! Thanks to all...
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Old 03-23-2008, 10:11 AM   #9
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Don - glad you found it! Be sure to look at Jeff's solution on the 3rd page of that previous thread. It's by far the simplest, requires no new materials, and takes about 10 seconds. I went back and changed mine to Jeff's way to prevent future problems.

This forum is the best!!
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Old 03-23-2008, 02:49 PM   #10
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Don,

Glad to hear you found the problem and the fix is an easy one. That rubber tubing gets stressed over the attachment and becomes brittle in all that cold weather. Time to move south.
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Old 03-23-2008, 10:52 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by lthrnk:
Don,

Glad to hear you found the problem and the fix is an easy one. That rubber tubing gets stressed over the attachment and becomes brittle in all that cold weather. Time to move south. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That silly hose split open is S. Cal wx for me (maybe it was the smog). There is absolutely no reason it needs to be there.
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:35 AM   #12
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Many thanks to all those who posted information on this problem on this thread and the one in July last year that tomsm linked. I was having a tough time converting the words to action until I found the pictures on the linked thread. My problem was as others, constant pump operation in Off and Max A/C. I found that the end of the green line had fallen out of the valve and hidden itself behind another item making it virtually impossible to notice. Hooking it back up solved the problem. I also found that the short tubing was beginning to crack and would have caused the same problem in the future. Thanks again to all.
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