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Old 06-21-2014, 08:55 PM   #1
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Newbie Refrigerator Question

We cautiously did our first night of boondocking in our driveway, and I have a question about the Dometic refrigerator in our (new to us) 1995 Minnie Winnie.

As best I can tell, this fridge is the original in the coach. I turned on the LP, water heater was working and heating up, so I set the refrigerator control to "Auto", and the "LP" indicator was lit. Two hours later the fridge had not cooled at all. I fired up the generator, and a half hour later the fridge had not cooled at all as well. I switched the control to "AC", and within an hour the fridge had dropped to 50 degrees. To test, I switched the control to "LP" and within 20 minutes the fridge dropped to 40 degrees.

This is telling me that the control panel "Auto" setting is not working? As a side note, our delivery was delayed due to the dealer waiting on parts for the fridge. Since we bought the coach "As-Is" with no warranty, is it in our best interest to chase this issue down? Is it a nuance that we just need to get used to?

We will be boondocking for a week in September and the last thing we want to worry about is refrigeration.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:13 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob55 View Post
I set the refrigerator control to "Auto", and the "LP" indicator was lit. Two hours later the fridge had not cooled at all. I fired up the generator, and a half hour later the fridge had not cooled at all as well. I switched the control to "AC", and within an hour the fridge had dropped to 50 degrees. To test, I switched the control to "LP" and within 20 minutes the fridge dropped to 40 degrees.
This is telling me that the control panel "Auto" setting is not working?
Bob
I have never heard of that happening but I believe you are correct that the "auto" setting is not working.
IMO that's not the "end of the world", (you probably could "live with it"), but it most certainly is not right!
Hopefully someone who has dealt with the same problem will reply, (so we can both learn something).
Good luck.
Mel
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:33 PM   #3
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RV fridges are notoriously slow to cool . I turn mine on at least 48hrs before I need to use it.
JMHO: Test the auto setting again , from a warm fridge and allow 24 hrs. with the door closed before testing the temp.
If at all possible load pre-cooled items into the fridge.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:42 PM   #4
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The first 2 hours the unit wasn't going to cool no matter what. Once its cooled, turn it back to Auto, see if it stays cold.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:42 PM   #5
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As Skip426 said, the RV style (ammonia absorption) refrigerator are very slow to start. They heat the ammonia and drive it into solution (or something like that) to start the cycle and it can take a few hours just to get things going. Once it does, the temps will start to drop in a more expected fashion. Your switching it back and forth probably had no effect because after 2 hours the cycle was probably just starting. They are not at all like your residential refrigerator.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:47 PM   #6
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Yup, start it up 24-48 hours before usage and I think you will be ok.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:49 PM   #7
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Skeptical here

Evaporative refers take a long time to cool down from being off. 24 to 48 hours depending on several variables.

Turn it on 2 days before you need it.

It's unlikely that the temp actually dropped 10 degrees in 20 minutes. I'm guessing that you moved the thermometer nearer the cooling fins.

Some of them do cool better on gas, but not that much better. But not knowing which model refer you have and how many heating elements it might have I suggest that you find the trouble shooting guide for your model and check the resistance of the heating element(s). Could be a botched installation of whatever parts they were waiting for as well.
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:02 PM   #8
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Was the check light on while on LP? If it was the burner did not light. If yours has a shut off valve check that it was turned back on after it was worked on. It does take several hours for it to start cooling. After a couple of hours I check the cold plate in the freezer to see if it is getting cold, normally is.

Chuck
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddypaws View Post
Evaporative refers take a long time to cool down from being off. 24 to 48 hours depending on several variables.
Muddypaws
Is "evaporative refer" another name for an "absorption refrigerator".
Wondering, (and learning).
Mel
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Old 06-21-2014, 11:25 PM   #10
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Kind of

I've seen them referred to by both names. Or it could have been the spell check on my iPad. It's wacky! or that second shot of Captain Morgan.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddypaws View Post
! or that second shot of Captain Morgan.
Drinking & Posting; never happen at my house.
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Old 06-22-2014, 02:38 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
Was the check light on while on LP? If it was the burner did not light. If yours has a shut off valve check that it was turned back on after it was worked on. It does take several hours for it to start cooling. After a couple of hours I check the cold plate in the freezer to see if it is getting cold, normally is.

Chuck
Chuck, yes the check light was on. I went out today and verified all of the LP lines were open, and they were. It looks like what the dealership replaced was a circuit board, it's the only new looking piece behind the access panel. I put the control to LP, and the check light cycled three times, and then stayed lit. Switch back to off for 30 seconds, then back to LP....check light came on for a couple of seconds, went out, and stayed out! I could hear the burner (not sure if that's the right terminology) running, so thought I'd just let things run. Three hours later and still the sound of success, plus the temp is actually dropping.

Thank you all for the tips, certainly a newbie mistake but part of the learning curve. Now it's time to find a manual for the fridge on-line.
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Old 06-22-2014, 02:42 PM   #13
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Chuck, yes the check light was on. I went out today and verified all of the LP lines were open, and they were. It looks like what the dealership replaced was a circuit board, it's the only new looking piece behind the access panel. I put the control to LP, and the check light cycled three times, and then stayed lit. Switch back to off for 30 seconds, then back to LP....check light came on for a couple of seconds, went out, and stayed out! I could hear the burner (not sure if that's the right terminology) running, so thought I'd just let things run. Three hours later and still the sound of success, plus the temp is actually dropping.
Thank you all for the tips, certainly a newbie mistake but part of the learning curve. Now it's time to find a manual for the fridge on-line.
Bob
I think your going to be OK
BTW if you had a manual in the first place you would have known what to expect.
Go online and get manuals for everyting you can, (it will save you time and frustration in the future).
Mel
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Old 06-22-2014, 02:50 PM   #14
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Newbies

That's not only a newbie mistake. It's possible that there was air in the gas line, or a spider web in the gas path. Spiders seem to like the smell of propane for some strange reason.

Before you try to start the refer and/or water heater turn on the stove to make sure you're getting gas.
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:29 PM   #15
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An oldtimer taught me this trick.

If you don't know whether or not your refrigerator is cooling ... go outside and remove the louvered door behind the refrigerator ... you will see a galvanized vertical stove pipe (assuming you are old enough to know what a stove pipe looks like) ... and put your hand near it ... NOT ON IT to see if it is warm or HOT ... if it is then your refrigerator is working ...

If that "stovepipe" is not warm after about an hour then you have a problem.

The burner itself is generally behind a little metal door held in place by one or two screws. You should clean that burner at least once a year. If you don't have an air compressor you can go to Staples and buy a can of air (designed for computer keyboards) to blow the stuff away from the burner.
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:07 PM   #16
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Bob55,
When the propane has been off at the tank for a while, a couple of weeks, it's normal that the propane line needs to purged. Before turning on the refrigerator I will light the stove and then start the frig. It will normally light the first or second time. You normally need to turn the frig off for a couple minutes to reset the safety circuit after the check light has come on. Good advise from Mel download a copy of the manual for your frig.

Chuck
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:07 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skigramp View Post
An oldtimer taught me this trick.
If you don't know whether or not your refrigerator is cooling ... go outside and remove the louvered door behind the refrigerator ... you will see a galvanized vertical stove pipe (assuming you are old enough to know what a stove pipe looks like) ... and put your hand near it ... NOT ON IT to see if it is warm or HOT ... if it is then your refrigerator is working ...
skigramp
That only thing that tells you is that the LP burner, (or the electric element), is working.
The only way to be sure that a RV, (aka: absorption), refrigerator is working is if it gets COLD.
IMO You need a new oldtimer.
Mel
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:58 PM   #18
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And if you have 3 grandchildren living with you for a week it will be working hard! Man they are in and out every few minutes, hold it open, etc.
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