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Old 06-24-2008, 04:13 PM   #1
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How to cool down front upper (over windshield) storage compartments? I searched the forum but was not able to find where someone has done this. Before I try to reinvent the wheel I thought I would inquire if anyone has had any success in adding insulation to cool off the front upper (over the windshield) storage compartments?

Our VCR/DVD, CD player and satellite receiver (and soon to be digital converter) equipment is stored in two compartments that are located on each side of the centered TV. The satellite equipment metal case mounted on the top shelf adjacent to the roof cap in the 97 degree summer heat became so hot that it was too hot to touch. I am thinking this kind of heat can not be good for equipment longevity.
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:13 PM   #2
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How to cool down front upper (over windshield) storage compartments? I searched the forum but was not able to find where someone has done this. Before I try to reinvent the wheel I thought I would inquire if anyone has had any success in adding insulation to cool off the front upper (over the windshield) storage compartments?

Our VCR/DVD, CD player and satellite receiver (and soon to be digital converter) equipment is stored in two compartments that are located on each side of the centered TV. The satellite equipment metal case mounted on the top shelf adjacent to the roof cap in the 97 degree summer heat became so hot that it was too hot to touch. I am thinking this kind of heat can not be good for equipment longevity.
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:36 PM   #3
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SteveG:
How to cool down front upper (over windshield) storage compartments? I searched the forum but was not able to find where someone has done this. Before I try to reinvent the wheel I thought I would inquire if anyone has had any success in adding insulation to cool off the front upper (over the windshield) storage compartments?


Our VCR/DVD, CD player and satellite receiver (and soon to be digital converter) equipment is stored in two compartments that are located on each side of the centered TV. The satellite equipment metal case mounted on the top shelf adjacent to the roof cap in the 97 degree summer heat became so hot that it was too hot to touch. I am thinking this kind of heat can not be good for equipment longevity. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You are correct...same situation I discovered today when install of sat dish was underway..and those compartments were open on my 2006 Itasca 35U. Only has about 1/4 inch spray on insulation on back side of front cap behind overhead electronics compartments and overhead front TV. Install tech said AV components and TV get a lot of radiated heat through that slightly insulated front overhead cap. Radiated heat/cold also felt coming down over driver and pax area during hot summer/cold winter. While tech had compartments opened, I cut pieces of Reflectix and laid them back around inside corners and then cut pieces to lay on shelf just above component shelfs. Compartments were then closed with factory compartment backs and sidings. Temporary insulation fix until I see better approach on this thread.
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:36 PM   #4
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I have taken the glass out of the overhead doors and replaced it with open mesh wire grill painted black. It works and looks good and I no longer have to keep the doors open. It theoretically may add some heat to the inside of the coach but has not been a problem this far.

I would like to add insulation as well, if like you I see an easy way of doing so. My DVR and DVD recorder are not cooking anymore and that was the main goal.

On the Newmar forum someone added a fan pulling the air from the coach into the cabinets and operating it via a thermal switch.
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:16 PM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SteveG:
"...I am thinking this kind of heat can not be good for equipment longevity." </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm down in Los Angeles for a few days and having 85-95 degree weather. Our VHS/DVD/Surround sound system let go and I think it was due to the heat in that ovehead compartment.
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:44 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SteveG:
How to cool down front upper (over windshield) storage compartments? I searched the forum but was not able to find where someone has done this. Before I try to reinvent the wheel I thought I would inquire if anyone has had any success in adding insulation to cool off the front upper (over the windshield) storage compartments?

Our VCR/DVD, CD player and satellite receiver (and soon to be digital converter) equipment is stored in two compartments that are located on each side of the centered TV. The satellite equipment metal case mounted on the top shelf adjacent to the roof cap in the 97 degree summer heat became so hot that it was too hot to touch. I am thinking this kind of heat can not be good for equipment longevity. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Steve,

There was someone who posted about insulating this area not only for the benefit of the equipment but to cool down the front of the coach. I can't seem to put my finger on the post but as memory serves me he pulled the headliner and insulated behind and above the front cabinettes over the entire cab area where there was no insulation. I have been tempted to do the same but have yet to get around to it.
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:47 PM   #7
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I added 3 inch fiberglass insulation while I was in there routing some wires. Above the cabinet space and touching the inside of the roof. It didn't help much. I think the answer is an exhaust fan.

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Old 06-25-2008, 01:21 AM   #8
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Fans

I experienced the radiant heat this weekend and was really surprised how hot things were even with the doors open. I have a pretty large roll of foil faced heat & noise padding (just shy of 1/2") that I also used to insulate the fridge cavity. I might try some up here.
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Old 06-25-2008, 03:48 AM   #9
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This has been discussed at length in the Alpine and Newmar forums.

Be sure to search ALL of the forums when looking.

I have these two fans exhausting hot air from the electronics cabinet over the drivers seat to the space behind the TV.

It has solved all of the overheating problems and the fans are very quiet.

The fans are about $18 from AMAZON.COM.

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Old 06-25-2008, 10:51 AM   #10
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I checked with Winnebago help desk to see if they had any suggestions. They suggested fans. I have installed fans on my home entertainment center. There I used three 12VDC fans, one for each section. The fans draw 0.085 amps (85 milliamps). The Antec fans found at the Amazon.com site are similar. I went to the Antec website and found good information. Also the Cool Component website provided a good selection. So now I just need to determine where best to install the exhaust fans to remove the hot air from the enclosed space. Also, if I leave the glass door in place, I read a good idea to use "silicon bumpers on the cabinet doors to hold them open slightly" to provide for better air flow. So now I've got the bases for a nice little project. Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:09 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SteveG:
I checked with Winnebago help desk to see if they had any suggestions. They suggested fans. I have installed fans on my home entertainment center. There I used three 12VDC fans, one for each section. The fans draw 0.085 amps (85 milliamps). The Antec fans found at the Amazon.com site are similar. I went to the Antec website and found good information. Also the Cool Component website provided a good selection. So now I just need to determine where best to install the exhaust fans to remove the hot air from the enclosed space. Also, if I leave the glass door in place, I read a good idea to use "silicon bumpers on the cabinet doors to hold them open slightly" to provide for better air flow. So now I've got the bases for a nice little project. Thanks for the help! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I use the silicon bumpers and they work fine. Put them where the old felt ones were. Cuts driving vibration noise on doors ans allows a nice gap for inflow of air.

I'd like to know too where a good 12 Volt source (wire) from house batts.. is to power the fans located in that area

Another thought I had was to dual source (engine-house batt) wire the two defrost fans. I used them (low speed) this week during driving
and they really helped circulate cool air from cabin to that area. With them pointed outward left and right...cool air is sucked forward in center of windshield area and circulated toward the outside...My thought is to dual source the fans and control speed with a small 12 rheostat.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:37 PM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Another thought I had was to dual source (engine-house batt) wire the two defrost fans. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It probably depends on the model coach but on my Horizon there is 12 volts available from the house battery via 12 gauge wire in the right upper cabinet. It is used to power the amp for the Winegard OTA antenna. I connected a cellular amp to it.

You might just connect the fans to only the house battery. When the engine runs, the alternator charges both the house and chassis batteries anyway.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:56 PM   #13
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Like Harry B, I replaced the glass in the cabinet doors with metal mesh. I used "disposable grill toppers" from Camping World. I cut each one a bit oversize with scissors, painted it black, and put the plastic glass edging on the folded over edges. It looks great and we have not had to do anything else to keep things cool.
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Old 06-25-2008, 11:54 PM   #14
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I also replaced the glass in the doors with wire mesh I got at Home Depot (or maybe Lowe's I'm not sure now). I have added a Playstation 3 in the passenger side compartment after I modified both side storage compartment openings to be smaller because of a 40" TV I installed. So even with the added heat from the PS3 and smaller openings I don't have any heat problems, and the outside temperature has been up to 96 degrees so far.
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:10 AM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Carnles:
I also replaced the glass in the doors with wire mesh I got at Home Depot (or maybe Lowe's I'm not sure now). I have added a Playstation 3 in the passenger side compartment after I modified both side storage compartment openings to be smaller because of a 40" TV I installed. So even with the added heat from the PS3 and smaller openings I don't have any heat problems, and the outside temperature has been up to 96 degrees so far. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Do you remeber what section of Lowe's-Home depot you found the wire mesh used?
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:58 AM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Do you remeber what section of Lowe's-Home depot you found the wire mesh used? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I obtained mine from Lowes. You can find it in their hardwardware department. They had two different designs.

There is an other option at Lowes as well in their window department. There they have screen door protectors that are made with a wire mesh on it. You can remove that and use it on the overhead doors instead of glass.
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:17 AM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Harry B:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Do you remeber what section of Lowe's-Home depot you found the wire mesh used? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I obtained mine from Lowes. You can find it in their hardwardware department. They had two different designs.

There is an other option at Lowes as well in their window department. There they have screen door protectors that are made with a wire mesh on it. You can remove that and use it on the overhead doors instead of glass. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks...I'll go to Lowes...hope the screens don't have a Flamingo pattern design...
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Old 06-26-2008, 03:21 PM   #18
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O my Journey I have the same problem. I too put thicker rubber stopper on my door. After studying the problem for awhile I remenbered that the a/c duck run right up to the front cap and are capped off there. I had a leak that came down the duct and came out at the cap. What I will do the nexts time I pull the TV is put a hole in the cap so the air will flow into the front cap area. In the winter I can block the air off by removing the front a/c grills and cap it there.If you pull the front A/C grill and take a look, you will see what I,m talking about. Food For Thought.
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:22 PM   #19
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The extruded screen is in the roofing/ gutter/ attic vent department. Home Depot sells what I think may be galv steel, and something almost identical out of aluminum, but it's too soft for this use.
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Old 06-28-2008, 06:33 PM   #20
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I like this: "CP-EC Power" solution...simple...reasonable...plug power supply to dual powered (110 AC & inverter) outlet in electronics compartment.That way it will always have a power source.

http://www.coolcomponents.com/Cooling-Products_c_6.html

Add the temperature conroller wire: "TC-BSC"..
http://www.coolcomponents.com/Temp-C...lers_c_13.html

These components will "cool".

Put a slightly fatter silicon bumper pad on the door bottom for door "venting" solution.
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