HWH Jack Problem

John Hilley · 10-15-2009, 05:09 PM

Monday when I put my jacks down the front went down fine, but only one went down in the back. Couldn't get any thing to work after that. I believe the pump isn't running. I have the 200 series with the joy stick controller. Thought at first it was the joy stick, but it seems to be actuating the switches. It has been raining continuously so haven't made voltage measurements. Checked four fuses, one on the light panel and two 10s and a 15 at the pump motor. May be bad ground.

grtharris · 10-16-2009, 07:02 AM

On my 94 Vectra I had a lot of issues with the wires breaking at the solenoids. Always carried wire splices and a soldering iron.

John Hilley · 10-30-2009, 10:10 PM

Got my jacks fixed this morning at HWH. It was the joy stick contact plate. $84 and about 1 hour of time.

billr30656 · 10-30-2009, 10:38 PM

None of mine are going down. I am having serious issues. I checked the control mod. One fuse was blown. I replaced it and still nothing. Once all this rain goes away this week I may be able to work on it. Rain rain go away come back to Louisiana some other day.

billr30656 · 10-30-2009, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grtharris

On my 94 Vectra I had a lot of issues with the wires breaking at the solenoids. Always carried wire splices and a soldering iron.

Maybe I need to check the wires at the Solenoids on my 97 Vectra.

Jackm · 11-04-2009, 08:16 PM

I would call HWH for help. They recently "walked" me through the process of changing out 2 solenoid valves that went bad. Good folks. Just be patient since they have quite a technical support load. Since none of your jacks are going down, this would suggest a "central" problem instead of a bad solenoid valve wire. They are complicated systems so it pays to ask for help. I'm a mechanical engineer but still refer to the folks that built the system when I run into a problem. Best of luck.

Jack

John Hilley · 11-05-2009, 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackm

I would call HWH for help. They recently "walked" me through the process of changing out 2 solenoid valves that went bad. Good folks. Just be patient since they have quite a technical support load. Since none of your jacks are going down, this would suggest a "central" problem instead of a bad solenoid valve wire. They are complicated systems so it pays to ask for help. I'm a mechanical engineer but still refer to the folks that built the system when I run into a problem. Best of luck.

Jack

Stopped at HWH last Friday. Had an appointment for 7:00 AM. They were finished and I was on my way by 8:30 AM. Didn't try the jacks or slide while I was there. When I got home and went to deploy them, it was the same as before I took it in to them. I am in the process of trouble shooting the problem. Looks like it is either the pump relay or the pump motor. I am back to doing what I wanted to avoid by going to HWH in Moscow, IA, working on the system in cold weather.

John Hilley · 11-22-2009, 04:26 PM

Got the new relays installed today. They are a different physical configuration, 90 degreees from the original. The original relays were Ametek Presotolite Switch SAZ 4201 ER 12 volt 100 amp, the replacements were Trombetta 684-1211-212 Intermittent Duty or Trombetta 684-1211-012 Continuous Duty. It took a little doing to utilize the 8" #2 battery cable cables reoriented. I haven't tried it yet, but doubt that it will work. All connections were fine, there isn't a separate ground connection, only the motor being bolted to the frame. Will try tomorrow. If it doesn't work I will try the motor direct to the battery.

DAN L · 11-23-2009, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Hilley

Got the new relays installed today. They are a different physical configuration, 90 degreees from the original. The original relays were Ametek Presotolite Switch SAZ 4201 ER 12 volt 100 amp, the replacements were Trombetta 684-1211-212 Intermittent Duty or Trombetta 684-1211-012 Continuous Duty. It took a little doing to utilize the 8" #2 battery cable cables reoriented. I haven't tried it yet, but doubt that it will work. All connections were fine, there isn't a separate ground connection, only the motor being bolted to the frame. Will try tomorrow. If it doesn't work I will try the motor direct to the battery.

On my moho i added a #10 ground wire from the motor mount large hose clamp that holds the solenoids to a nearby chassis ground stud. i sanded the motor to get a good connection under the large hose clamp.

John Hilley · 11-23-2009, 08:38 AM

Was adding the #10 ground wire, what made yours work?

DAN L · 11-23-2009, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Hilley

Was adding the #10 ground wire, what made yours work?

hwh aft slide problem: long story... short version...
i had issues with my bedroom slide coming out about 9" all by itself when driving across the I-5 portland to vancouver bridge. very scary.

in the process of troubleshooting this issue, i overheated the motor and partially melted the brush holders which interrupted the brush contact with the armature.

i ended up replacing the motor. the new motor had paint on it which interrupted the ground from the electrical operating solenoid clamp mounting to the motor, so it would not work. i sanded a spot on the motor and added the ground wire.

hwh said that the problem with my aft slide was a bad hydraulic solenoid valve. i replaced both aft slide hydraulic solenoid valves 3 times. still no joy, the slide immediately extends 9" as soon as the operating switch is released.

i came up with a work around until i can get my moho to iowa.

i leave the depressurizing fitting for the extend valve loose about 2 turns. the slide works slowly, but stays in when the operating switch is released. i install a 2X4 in the overhead and made a floor mounted locking strap similar to the front slide locking straps to keep the slide in when under way.

the problem with my work around is that any time the hydraulic pump runs for the jacks or slides, my aft slide moves some. when i had it locked down, it ripped my fitting off of the floor.

John Hilley · 11-23-2009, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAN L

hwh aft slide problem: long story... short version...
i had issues with my bedroom slide coming out about 9" all by itself when driving across the I-5 portland to vancouver bridge. very scary.

in the process of troubleshooting this issue, i overheated the motor and partially melted the brush holders which interrupted the brush contact with the armature.

i ended up replacing the motor. the new motor had paint on it which interrupted the ground from the electrical operating solenoid clamp mounting to the motor, so it would not work. i sanded a spot on the motor and added the ground wire.

hwh said that the problem with my aft slide was a bad hydraulic solenoid valve. i replaced both aft slide hydraulic solenoid valves 3 times. still no joy, the slide immediately extends 9" as soon as the operating switch is released.

i came up with a work around until i can get my moho to iowa.

i leave the depressurizing fitting for the extend valve loose about 2 turns. the slide works slowly, but stays in when the operating switch is released. i install a 2X4 in the overhead and made a floor mounted locking strap similar to the front slide locking straps to keep the slide in when under way.

the problem with my work around is that any time the hydraulic pump runs for the jacks or slides, my aft slide moves some. when i had it locked down, it ripped my fitting off of the floor.

How is the motor replaced. That might be my next step. It isn't obvious how the motor is separated from the pump.

DAN L · 11-23-2009, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Hilley

How is the motor replaced. That might be my next step. It isn't obvious how the motor is separated from the pump.

after removing the electrical connections and the large hose type clamp that holds the electrical solenoids, there are 2 long bolts, i believe 5/16 wrench size (could be 8mm), that go through the motor and attach it to the hwh case. the motor meshes with the hyd pump with a spline that has to be lined up on reinstallation. it can fit 180 degrees from the way it was when removed.
if your motor will not run now, try tapping on the end of the motor near the clamp (where the brushes are). this may reseat the brushes enough to make the motor run. this worked for me. i had the brushes replaced by an electrical repair shop. this lasted long enough to get a motor from hwh. i have been told that napa stocks a similar motor. it is a starter motor for something. hwh charged me $185 for the motor.

i hope this helps.