Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-26-2008, 02:29 PM   #1
Winnie-Wise
 
Harry B's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 358
I know that this is an item much discussed in pervious posts but I would like to ask again if anyone has come up with a better (longer lasting) way to caulk the roof edge/gutter seam. Using Eternabond (which I know is an excellent product) is not an option for me as my coach has a full body paint job and I don't want to get into painting Eternabond.

The caulking recommended for my coach by Winnie and I confirmed this after talking with them today is called Stone Mason Gutter & Siding sealant made by U.S.E. Hickson in Cananda (p/n 094401-04-000). I contacted U.S.E. Hickson and they recommended using Kop-R-Lastic (also their product) as it is supposed to adhere better to fiberglass than their Gutter & Siding sealant and according to them are very similar products.
I purchased my coach new and have now had to re-caulk that gutter seam for the 4th time and it is getting old quick.

I have used ProFlex RV caulking on some other smaller areas of my coach and it sure seems to adhere well and has been made especially for RVs. Does anyone have any long term experience with this product or using it on the gutter seam or the Kop-R-Lastic for that matter.

I had thought of using 3M 5200 to seal the gutter but 3M recommended against it, as 5200 has not been formulated to be left out to UV exposure. Using it anyway would require me to paint it. The paint job would probably not hold up anyway with possible movement in the roof/gutter joint.

So, has anyone found a better solution yet?
__________________
Harry
2015 Tuscany 40 KQ
2013 Honda CR-V
Harry B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2008, 02:29 PM   #2
Winnie-Wise
 
Harry B's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 358
I know that this is an item much discussed in pervious posts but I would like to ask again if anyone has come up with a better (longer lasting) way to caulk the roof edge/gutter seam. Using Eternabond (which I know is an excellent product) is not an option for me as my coach has a full body paint job and I don't want to get into painting Eternabond.

The caulking recommended for my coach by Winnie and I confirmed this after talking with them today is called Stone Mason Gutter & Siding sealant made by U.S.E. Hickson in Cananda (p/n 094401-04-000). I contacted U.S.E. Hickson and they recommended using Kop-R-Lastic (also their product) as it is supposed to adhere better to fiberglass than their Gutter & Siding sealant and according to them are very similar products.
I purchased my coach new and have now had to re-caulk that gutter seam for the 4th time and it is getting old quick.

I have used ProFlex RV caulking on some other smaller areas of my coach and it sure seems to adhere well and has been made especially for RVs. Does anyone have any long term experience with this product or using it on the gutter seam or the Kop-R-Lastic for that matter.

I had thought of using 3M 5200 to seal the gutter but 3M recommended against it, as 5200 has not been formulated to be left out to UV exposure. Using it anyway would require me to paint it. The paint job would probably not hold up anyway with possible movement in the roof/gutter joint.

So, has anyone found a better solution yet?
__________________
Harry
2015 Tuscany 40 KQ
2013 Honda CR-V
Harry B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2008, 03:49 PM   #3
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Madison, SD
Posts: 175
I used a product called WaterSeal which has amazing "sticky" properties. I installed it with a caulking gun last year and so far, it is doing great. I was able to smooth it with a finger and it seems to be ding a great job. You can paint it, but I simply covered the current caulk area (removing any loose, old stuff) and it worked out fine.

Good luck.
__________________
Rick

2010 Winnebago Tour 42AD
rv rick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2008, 04:47 PM   #4
Winnebago Owner
 
becks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SE Minnesota
Posts: 228
I have asked myself that same question. Since my next coach when retiring in a few years will have full body paint. My present coach being white I used eternabond two years ago and have been pleased with results. I am eager to here what is working for those with full body paint also.
__________________
06 TS-42-DS04
1040 watts of solar
2014 Jeep Rubicon/2003 Honda CRV
becks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 02:50 PM   #5
Winnebago Camper
 
The Quince's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 13
Have you used the Kop-R-Lastic. If so did it work. I also have read about eterna bond and 3m 5200 and Elastometric and Manus 75AM. We are in Canada now and I hear that Kop-R-Lastic is only available in Canada. We have a 04 Horizon 40AD.
__________________
2010 Phaeton 40QTH
2007 Vue towed
A room with a Vue
The Quince is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 03:14 PM   #6
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,588
When I asked the Winnebago factory what they used on my roof when I was there in 2008, they gave me a tube of Kop-R-Lastic. I used some of it to replace caulking in a couple of places about 9 months after they gave it to me and found it gets stiff pretty quick -- I wondered if that was due to the age. Most sealant does have a shelf-life. Other than that, it seemed to work great! I have wondered where I could get more -- maybe direct from Winnebago, or from Lichtsinn Motors in Forest City.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '05 Honda Odyssey toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 07:12 PM   #7
Winnebago Owner
 
Fossilhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Howell, New Jersey
Posts: 165
Send a message via AIM to Fossilhog
Roof caulk

Talk about timing I just did mine today. I got the stuff, the right stuff I hope from the guys at Lightsinn Mtrs. They said 2 tubes so I got 3 in case. The driver side which is parked facing the north and out of the sun was completely compromised, the entire length just peeld out with no problem. The roof channel was wet and black. With two days of hot dry weather I tackled it, cleaned and scrubed it and let it dry. I read horror stories about sections of roof coming off going down the road. So....with a lot of sweat and up-down the laddar It's done. heres the strange part, the passenger side was completely intact, nice and dry and tight. I left well enough alone.
__________________
Tim ,Retired Police Lt. 2002 Winnebago Adventurer+16' Trailer
Harley Road King and Heritage Classic+,Trik-L-start,Hughes Autoformer. Blue Tick Coon hound
Fossilhog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 09:04 PM   #8
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 354
Harry: My paint job is charcoal, and greys. On the shoulder of the roof, above the gutter rail, the clear coat has flacked and fadded away, even after a warranty repaint the clear coat is gone. So I used the 2 inch eternal bond tape; black where my paint job is dark and the grey eternal bond where the grey colors are. If you are not looking up and specifically looking at the gutter the tape blends nicely and the roof is sealed tight. I recommend it.

I also used the 4 inch white on the front and rear cap seams. After 5 years my front cap sealant has dried and split one inch near the air horns. Also, check the sealant around other areas, in some areas the original sealant was almost chalk.

I consider this part of the maintenance of an RV. I realize that the roof is exposed to the sun and needs care.

While we were at GNR this year I would say on the majority of painted rigs that were 3-5 years old the paint above the gutter rails was faded and the clear coat was gone. I could tell, while being up on my roof, that most owners weren't aware of the faded paint or degrading sealant and very few had ever cleaned or waxed the roofs.

The roof and sealant(s) is an other area for a prospective buyers to inspect......
Gary CA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 09:34 PM   #9
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,588
Quote:
I got the stuff, the right stuff I hope from the guys at Lightsinn Mtrs.
Tim -- tell us exactly what the label is, brand, name and description, etc (synthetic rubber, etc) -- or a picture would be great!!
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '05 Honda Odyssey toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2009, 10:03 AM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
Fossilhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Howell, New Jersey
Posts: 165
Send a message via AIM to Fossilhog
Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
Tim -- tell us exactly what the label is, brand, name and description, etc (synthetic rubber, etc) -- or a picture would be great!!
I used Manus-Bond #75-AM as mentioned in a previous post. It wasn't a pretty job but it's done.
__________________
Tim ,Retired Police Lt. 2002 Winnebago Adventurer+16' Trailer
Harley Road King and Heritage Classic+,Trik-L-start,Hughes Autoformer. Blue Tick Coon hound
Fossilhog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2009, 10:30 AM   #11
Winnie-Wise
 
DonavonP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 409
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...gl7GF476P1TVbl

This stuff might look better than the Eternabond. I haven't tried it.
__________________
DonavonP
2016 Jayco White Hawk 27dsrl
2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 diesel 4x4
DonavonP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2009, 04:29 PM   #12
Winnebago Owner
 
Fossilhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Howell, New Jersey
Posts: 165
Send a message via AIM to Fossilhog
I should have added, Industrial Strength Elastomeric adhesive sealant.
__________________
Tim ,Retired Police Lt. 2002 Winnebago Adventurer+16' Trailer
Harley Road King and Heritage Classic+,Trik-L-start,Hughes Autoformer. Blue Tick Coon hound
Fossilhog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2009, 11:29 PM   #13
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: If something hasn't broken on your RV, it is about to.
Posts: 57
This is a timely post for my 2005 Journey 36G also. A couple of months ago I inspected the seals above the gutter rails and along the front and rear cap seams and found significant cracking in the elastomeric seal material. I called Winnebago and they recommended the same elastomeric sealant that Fossilhog used, i.e. Manus-Bond #75-AM. I picked up a tube of white Manus-Bond at the local Winnebago dealership and sealed the seams along the front and rear caps. The cracks above the gutter rails are deep but closed up because of thermal expansion from the summer heat, so I think I will wait until the weather cools off before working on them.

The old sealant is very difficult to remove. I had to cut it off with a utility blade along the seams of the front and rear cap seams. I figure that it is going to be a major, major job to remove the old sealant from the seams above the gutter rails (approximately 66 feet total). For those who have re-sealed the gutter rails, do you remove the old sealant or do you just fill the existing cracks with the new sealant?


Suncircles
2005 Winnebago Journey 36G with CRV Toad
Suncircles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2009, 04:49 PM   #14
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,588
Quote:
do you remove the old sealant or do you just fill the existing cracks with the new sealant?
I have never done mine, but if I did I would do what I expect a dealer service tech to do when I take it to them...

Doing it right would require digging all the old sealant out, cleaning the surfaces with mineral spirits, letting it dry, then putting the new sealant in place. If only some areas are bad and others in good shape, it is perfectly acceptable to remove and replace only the bad sections.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '05 Honda Odyssey toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2009, 12:25 AM   #15
Winnebago Camper
 
OutBurger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11
I found a way to remove the old caluk. What I do is get a small section peeled up then grasp it and streatch it keeping it close to the gutter and it starts coming right up. I am pulling it in the direction that I remove it from. Basicly I am streatching it like a rubberband.
I then placed 3m 5200 in the gap after cleaning. I have the gold/brown full body paint. I used black thinking you wouldn't see it. Well I put too much in the space and then it oozed out and required cleaning to make it ok to look at.
I have the other side to do yet
I have a 2004 Journey 36G
__________________
2004 Winnebago Journey 36G
Full-body Paint, Koni Shocks

Wife ( real lovely!), 3 Kids, 90 lbs Golden Retriever
OutBurger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2009, 07:40 AM   #16
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Tucson
Posts: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
I have never done mine, but if I did I would do what I expect a dealer service tech to do when I take it to them...

Doing it right would require digging all the old sealant out, cleaning the surfaces with mineral spirits, letting it dry, then putting the new sealant in place. If only some areas are bad and others in good shape, it is perfectly acceptable to remove and replace only the bad sections.

Paul, to each his own, but to me "doing it right" would include doing the entire job at once. My 04 Adv. only had a few "soft" places, but once you assemble the stuff to do it, why not do it and be done with it for several years. The caulk on my "03 build, 04", made it 5.5 years, and only about 2 feet of it had failed..Get all your needed tools, CORRECT caulk, GOOD caulking gun, cleaners,( alcohol) new stiff toothbrush, small screwdriver to help remove small shreds of old caulk, sharp knife ( I used a 2.0 " blade pocket knife, very sharp) or box cutter, paper towels or rags, into a 5 gal bucket. If you have access to a good compressed air source, attach a rope to nozzle, another to the bucket handle, throw the rope ends onto the roof. When you get onto the roof, pull the bucket and nozzle up, Tie the compressed air nozzle to something. or it will answer gravitys call, and leave you.. Leaning the sharp edge of the knife/cutter against the edge(s) of the moulding, make 2 parallel cuts, one on each edge, ( I cut about 2-3' at a time), deep enough to get thru the bottom of the caulk, and pulling out the loose calking, you can strip long stringers of old calk at a time.. remove ALL you can. Brush the open channel very clean, using alcohol, get everything out of the channel you can..blow dry,( must be completely clean and dry for new caulk to adhear) re caulk and you are done. TIP, unless you are an accomplised ( I'm not) caulker, use a smaller, rather than larger caulk tube opening, and move slower. Dont forget to untie the rope to the nozzle, or your neighbors will laugh at you...My 33' took 1 1/2 hours, start to finish, Note, dont fall off of the roof or it will take longer...this is not the huge hassle its made out to be, dont put it off, or they are going to laugh when you return home minus part of your roof too. Neighbors are like that......rgr...
__________________
2004 Winnebago 33V, WH
2010 Honda CRV
Jim, Lynda, and our 6/2010 model Weimaraner, Quincy, aka Q Man
rgrstndgby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2009, 08:20 PM   #17
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,588
Quote:
The caulk on my "03 build, 04", made it 5.5 years
My "02 build, 03" has had the caulk totally redone two or three times, and partially at least once, in that same time period!!!
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '05 Honda Odyssey toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sealing the Roof edge arkaussie General Maintenance and Repair 9 06-16-2006 12:47 PM
Ultimate Freedom Roof Edge KennethM General Maintenance and Repair 11 02-15-2006 03:45 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×