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Old 11-27-2013, 10:04 PM   #1
Winnie-Wise
 
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Front fender / front fender lip sealant repair

I found a year-old thread regarding resealing the front fender to the metal frame-work behind it, but can not post any questions to that thread due to how old it is.

I just discovered that I have the same problem of the fender sealant letting go from the metal frame, and it billows out at speed. One post in that thread suggested Weld-Bond 39537 but when I did a search at their website, it seems that Weld-Bond 39747 "is the product of choice when bonding steel, aluminum, SMC and fiberglass panels." 39537 seems to be for metal-to-metal bonding.

In the picture I posted, number 1 is the exterior view of the front fender, number 29 in the inside view but doesn't show the metal frame-work that the front fender actually seals to.

Any one here have any experience in this repair since the original post of that thread in Nov. 2012? One of the previous suggestions was using double-sided tape and if used, is there a heavy-duty version? Don't really want it to fail again, as when the fender starts billowing out you can't see it or hear it; someone on the freeway has to tell you.

Thank you. -RT
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:57 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTegarini View Post
I found a year-old thread regarding resealing the front fender to the metal frame-work behind it, but can not post any questions to that thread due to how old it is.

I just discovered that I have the same problem of the fender sealant letting go from the metal frame, and it billows out at speed. One post in that thread suggested Weld-Bond 39537 but when I did a search at their website, it seems that Weld-Bond 39747 "is the product of choice when bonding steel, aluminum, SMC and fiberglass panels." 39537 seems to be for metal-to-metal bonding.

In the picture I posted, number 1 is the exterior view of the front fender, number 29 in the inside view but doesn't show the metal frame-work that the front fender actually seals to.

Any one here have any experience in this repair since the original post of that thread in Nov. 2012? One of the previous suggestions was using double-sided tape and if used, is there a heavy-duty version? Don't really want it to fail again, as when the fender starts billowing out you can't see it or hear it; someone on the freeway has to tell you.

Thank you. -RT
i used jb weld regular formula. it is still holding ok.
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:15 AM   #3
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The secret is cleaning up the metal surface well before using the epoxy bonding material. JB Weld works. Or, you can go to any automotive paint supplier and get a tube of the stuff that body shops use to attach body panels. Sika Flex 252 is one of those I believe.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:02 AM   #4
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Best double-sided tape to use is 3m auto trim tape from any auto parts or Walmart. It has red peel-off covering. I couldn't get access to clean and use tape, so I added a small stainless screw w/washer on one side of my coach where I had your problem.
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Old 11-28-2013, 06:18 PM   #5
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I used Gorilla Glue and our fender has held for 2 years. The attached photo was the before picture.
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
Best double-sided tape to use is 3m auto trim tape from any auto parts or Walmart. It has red peel-off covering. I couldn't get access to clean and use tape, so I added a small stainless screw w/washer on one side of my coach where I had your problem.
Thanks to all for the replies; I bought some red Gorilla double-sided tape and am going to give that a try. I might also add a couple of screws from the bottom of the fender and into the metal frame on the inside of the fender. Should I use flat-head screws with a rubber washer to help prevent the fender from cracking or spydering?
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:33 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by RTegarini View Post
Thanks to all for the replies; I bought some red Gorilla double-sided tape and am going to give that a try. I might also add a couple of screws from the bottom of the fender and into the metal frame on the inside of the fender. Should I use flat-head screws with a rubber washer to help prevent the fender from cracking or spydering?
Whenever I drill fiberglass I put masking tape over the area to be drilled then drill with a sharp counter sink bit. I would use tapered head stainless screws with finish washers.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:03 PM   #8
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right fender floping

I have the same problem. Gee, don't you think that Winnebago would have made all these mistakes only once.

I used three SS #8 bolts with plastic washers and locking nylon nuts. I drilled completely through the fender to the horizontal metal support in back of fender. then I used gutter sealant behind the fender as an adhesive and vibration dampener and bolted through to the metal support.

the bolts are not pull tight but only tight enough to hold the fender to the metal and stop it from pulling way. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN.

this location is about 1.5 to 2 inches below the horizontal mating surface. they already used one screw in the front. I put mine midspan across the panel and one on the bottom behind the wheel well.

Incidentally, this panel is not fiberglass but ABS plastic. you can repair this and other abs plastic by getting abs cement or make you own goop by dissolving ABS black pipe in acetone. when it is like thick glue you can fix cracks by using the glue and a backer of ABS sheeting or other abs product.

IF all this is to confusing I can get a picture for you.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:29 PM   #9
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Update: Well, took me a while to get around to fixing the front fender, but I finally did today. The fender is attached to a metal frame-work only with double-sided tape. Since there was quite a bit a tape on the metal, I'm at a loss as to why it let go. (Actually, only half did, the back half... the front section was still firmly attached so I decided not to mess with it. Most of the tape was stuck to the metal so I'm guessing that either the inside fender wasn't as clean as it should have been when they put it together, or the tape simply just does't adhere as well to the ABS plastic and lets go there more easily.

While the picture isn't very good, the angle was taken with the fender swung up about horizontally, showing the metal frame-work and remaining double-sided tape. Ideally, if all the tape had let go, I would have been able to remove all the original tape but access is very limited when part of the fender is still attached to the frame-work.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:46 AM   #10
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why tape does not hold

The problem with using tape is that the edges continually release, allowing water, dirt and air to attack the bonding edge. this is similar to the body skin decal or pin striping. This keeps going on until it finally fails as is the case with the front fender. applying more tape will simply extend the proper repair till the next time.

Very little sticks to ABS, so to effectively use an adhesive, the area not only needs to be cleaned very well chemically but also need to be ruffed up a little for more gripping area.

chemicals that bond well to ABS, such as methyl ethyl ketone or chloride can also be used to clean the surface. In all cases, ABS only bonds well to itself. There is however a company, LORD,which has a variety of specialty products including acrylic, epoxy and urethane lord.com .

In any case, someday you may wish to remove that fender and permanent bonding would make that difficult without damage to the panel.. That is why I used my method above. It also the likely reason Winne choice was double tape. Fast assembly and let the next person worry about it. MUch like the front windshield frame.
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