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Old 10-20-2010, 10:40 AM   #1
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Bedroom slide, sheared the stop bolts.

It pays to look under the bed and check the filters. In doing so I ran across a long 12 v wire pair that had been pulled out and severed, must have caught in the slide. Fixed it but still can't figure out where it goes to. And I noticed that the hydraulic slide sheared off both bolts holding the limiting stop plate. Shows just how strong the cylinders are. So be careful not to keep running the pump after you get it in or out. Don't know if it sheared coming in or going out. Bolts were grade 5, I will replace with grade 8 and be more careful. Also now have a hydraulic oil leak from the same slide, don't know if it is related. Looks like a tough fix, have an appointment with the dealer for that. I'm not afraid to tackle fixes, so if you have fixed a hydraulic (HWH) leak on the bedroom slide, please chime in asap.

To see the stop plate, I had to remove the wood platform under the bed.
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Old 10-20-2010, 02:49 PM   #2
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Sorry about the double post, thought the first one got lost in a time warp.

Admin, please delete this thread if you would. Thanks.
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Old 10-20-2010, 04:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7ole View Post
It pays to look under the bed and check the filters. In doing so I ran across a long 12 v wire pair that had been pulled out and severed, must have caught in the slide. Fixed it but still can't figure out where it goes to. And I noticed that the hydraulic slide sheared off both bolts holding the limiting stop plate. Shows just how strong the cylinders are. So be careful not to keep running the pump after you get it in or out. Don't know if it sheared coming in or going out. Bolts were grade 5, I will replace with grade 8 and be more careful. Also now have a hydraulic oil leak from the same slide, don't know if it is related. Looks like a tough fix, have an appointment with the dealer for that. I'm not afraid to tackle fixes, so if you have fixed a hydraulic (HWH) leak on the bedroom slide, please chime in asap.

To see the stop plate, I had to remove the wood platform under the bed.

Be careful putting in the grade 8 bolts. You want the bolts to break not the frame. In some cases grade 5 will actually do better because they have more elasticity. Just thought.
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:40 AM   #4
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I have an 02 35u and had the same thing happen. Dealer sent the ram to machine and threads were stripped, Had to install new ram. This all started when we stopped (on trip) at a HWH dealer for a rear slide leak. The ram stripped after new hose was installed and dealer paid for ram..Thank god....I have now replaced all HWH hoses, they had a bunch of 02 hoses that were bad!!! Hope this helps....
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:44 PM   #5
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Which is the weakest link in the manual retract mechanism, the bolts or the threaded rod?

I’ve sheared one or the other on my driver’s side forward slide but can’t figure out how to gain access to the rear inner mechanism. The forward inner bolt is accessible between the chassis rails but how in the world I get to the rear one without pulling up the floor has me stumped. If any of you have seen the rear area accessed please pass along how it was done.

And, for those who have not yet had the pleasure of manually retracting a HWH actuated slide via the threaded rod mechanism, just remember to follow the guidelines in the book and release BOTH the retract and extend valves before doing so.
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:09 PM   #6
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Took mine to the dealer and they said it was the ram seal leaking, possibly due to the stop bolts breaking and the ram needed to be replaced. They agreed that the grade 8 bolts were the proper fix. Quoted me about $900 to fix, but they couldn't get it done before I left to Florida due to parts delays. They had to call Winnebago to see how to remove the ram. They said to extend the room full, and unbolt the end of the ram from underneath (outside), then retract the ram. Under the bed are four screws (bolts?) than when removed allow the whole ram device to tip up so you can get to the other end to remove the hoses and unbolt the ram so it now can be slipped out and replaced. I am going to call HWH and confirm the removal instructions and get pricing on a rebuilt unit, hoping I can save $600 or so. The shop was figuring 4.5 to 6 hours of labor. We'll see as I am now in FL.

Quote:
The ram stripped after new hose was installed and dealer paid for ram.
What threads on the ram stripped, the hose threads?
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Old 11-06-2010, 10:13 AM   #7
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We got to our 3 week campground in FL and tried removing the ram per the dealer suggestions. I got stuck so I called Winnebago, and talked to Jay, a service tech. He said to leave the ram attached at the outboard end, but disconnect it at the inboard end by removing the 2 allen screws (7/32" wrench) at the sides in the recess. He recommended raising the inboard end of the frame as much as possible (I got it up about 2-3" with a prybar after removing the footboard). Then gently retract the cylinder in order to pull it and remove it at the outboard end. Reason for raising the frame is so you can reach under to make sure the hoses don't get tangled or kinked. I was able to get the cylinder retracted all but the last 6 inches until I felt that anymore and I would kink one of the hoses. I removed the bolt at the end of the cylinder and retracted it the rest of the way for shipping purposes. At that point I disconnected the outboard hose fitting, catching the oil in a drip pan. I was prepared with a 1/8" flare plug and 1/8" flare cap to plug the hose and the cylinder connection to stop any more drips. Then by hand I was easily able to pull out the cylinder and remove and plug the inboard hose. Wednesday HWH said it would be about a week to ship out a new (rebuilt) cylinder. When I called back Friday, they are now telling me 2 weeks. At least they will give me credit for the core when I return the old cylinder. Hoping it will be under $300. If I don't get in the 2 weeks time frame, I will have to reinstall the old one in order to retract the slide to put it in storage for the winter, then install it when I return in the spring.

One more tip: pull back the mattress and cut a handhole in the mattress board to access the top of the bolt holding the outboard end of the ram to the frame.
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'02 Adventurer 32V, Ford F-53, ours since 4/08,Goodyears, Konis, SeeLevel, CHF
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:57 PM   #8
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Wow, I got the cylinder almost a week sooner than expected. $279 plus a $84 core charge, so it will end up at about $300 with shipping. The inboard allen head flat head screws were bigger on the new unit, the new ones took a 1/4" allen wrench. Definitely a 2 person install. One to tend the hoses inside and one to push the cylinder back in place. The inboard hose slack gets pulled in until it passes the slot in the bottom of the frame, then you need to feed the hose back into the frame toward the inboard side. I ended up reattaching the end of the cylinder at the outboard end and using the extend/retract button to power up the cylinder to line up the screw holes in the slots at the inboard end. I found that in order to get the holes lined up, I needed to let the frame back down and tighten the four 1/2" nuts to suck the frame back down to the floor.

$600 in my pocket for about 5 or 6 hours of work, not bad, plus the sense of accomplishment. The second one would go a lot faster having done one.
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