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Old 08-05-2014, 10:01 AM   #29
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I have a 31 page PDF service manual for Coleman model 6535 series. I don't know how to post a PDF file if you want it let me know how to send it.
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:25 AM   #30
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I have a 31 page PDF service manual for Coleman model 6535 series. I don't know how to post a PDF file if you want it let me know how to send it.
I have that manual.

Thank you.
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Old 08-06-2014, 04:02 PM   #31
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Replaced the thermostat this morning. No change on system #1 and #2 still runs although it should continue to run.

I have pulled the unit out and swapped the overload from #1 to #2 with no change. Measured the resistance on the compressor motors and they are the same.

I don't know how to check coolant on these things. Sounds like either coolant or bad compressor.
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:29 PM   #32
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In case anybody else needs it, the part # for the thermostat is:

6535-3442

I used an amazon.com search for that part # and found 4 vendors.
Does Winnebago use the same black Coleman-Mach True Air Residential Central Heat & Air thermostat for all their coaches, especially any with the Energy Management system? Will your part number match/fit the place the old one comes out of?
Really appreciate this as just today in 93-96 degrees in a campground I thought I had lost my #2 compressor. After reading about looking for the easy fixes first I wiggled the slide switch for Cool/Gas/Elec Heat and my #2 compressor came on. Now in just over 2 hours the inside temp has dropped from 82 down to 75. Man, what a relief.
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:35 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
In case anybody else needs it, the part # for the thermostat is:

6535-3442

I used an amazon.com search for that part # and found 4 vendors.
I found that number on Amazon for $143, is this a reasonable price or did you find a better one?
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:51 PM   #34
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I found that number on Amazon for $143, is this a reasonable price or did you find a better one?
ebay $119 + shipping is the one that I bought. If amazon includes S+H is will be a push.

Should be the same for all Winnys.

Be aware that you will be going from a 3 pin to a 4 pin. What I had to do is cut off the 4 pin and attach the leads to a 3 pin. Just match colors and you should be OK. The orange lead is not used.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:19 AM   #35
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In case anybody else needs it, the part # for the thermostat is:

6535-3442

I used an amazon.com search for that part # and found 4 vendors.
Is this the correct thermostat that will turn on the #2 compressor after the 2 degree change? I understand some will and others won't so since that seems to be my problem (the #2 compressor is intermittant about coming on after the temps change the 2 degrees or more) I want to be sure I'm ordering the correct thermostat. Really appreciate getting that part #.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:32 AM   #36
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Is this the correct thermostat that will turn on the #2 compressor after the 2 degree change? I understand some will and others won't so since that seems to be my problem (the #2 compressor is intermittant about coming on after the temps change the 2 degrees or more) I want to be sure I'm ordering the correct thermostat. Really appreciate getting that part #.

Yes!

I was having two problems. Compressor #1 does not come on, not fixed yet.

Compressor #2 was intermittent and came on when I jiggled the thermostat, fixed by the new thermostat.

Note my correction to ebay not amazon.
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:13 PM   #37
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As a final check of my sanity, I swapped the wires on the compressors. The compressor #1 wires were too short to reach compressor #2 but the wires from #2 did reach #1.

When I fired it up, as expected indoor and outdoor fans started up and drew about 9 amps. When #2 was called for, the current surged briefly (just like when it was wired to #1) and settled in at 11 amps which would be the outdoor blower on high speed.

So as a result of this, I am pretty convinced that compressor #1 is not functioning. Either its motor is locked up or the Freon has leaked away.

This claims to be a sealed unit so I am kind of stumped for a next step.

I called all of the local residential AC repair places and none of them would touch it and, yes, I did tell them that this is a residential unit.

Unless I can figure out how to take the next step, I will have to take it to one of the RV places on the Airxcel web site. None of them are all that close, they don't seem to have parts in stock.

Any recommendations near Fresno, Salinas, Monterey or San Jose? Paul Evert in Fresno is off the table.
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:03 PM   #38
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That's really a bummer that none of the local residential AC repairmen would look at your unit. I had always heard if you had the unit out where they could reach it that any of them would check/work on it. I was about ready to panic when my #2 compressor wasn't coming on but after reading the Forum I started jiggling/wiggling the slide switch on the inside thermostat and #2 kicked in. Think I'd better get a new one on order but wanted to make sure it would be the one that calls for #2 when the temp changes 2 or more degrees.
I feel your frustration but thank you for all you information. And I know the feeling of having to go a distance for any work. 120 miles has been my shortest with 800 the longest to FC.
Good luck on your repair, and keep us all informed of your progress. Members like you having to find a fix is what makes this such a great Forum.
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:35 PM   #39
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Bruce,

I had good luck locating a company that does mobile a/c repair for the Thermo King units on truck refer semi-trailers. I suggest calling a big truck repair shop in your area and find out the company that does the work on refrigerated truck trailers.

I had the unit out, lid off and on a stand that allowed the air to blow out the bottom so unit could run unimpeded for operational testing. I had a leak in a copper line, which he soldered, added a Schrader valve, pulled the vacuum and installed the freon......and was done in 45 min. $115 and I was back in action and once again a happy camper.

Good luck,
Bill
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:00 AM   #40
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Is there some re-wiring that needs to be done to change from the obsolete 6535B3352 to the 6535-3442? Looking at the pin-out requirements in the 6535 service and maint. manual, and the wall thermostat brochure from RV Products, the freeze sensor contacts that go to pins 1 & 3 are not used, in fact pin 1 on the new thermostat connector is empty and pin 3 is listed as a generator auto-start.
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:28 AM   #41
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Is there some re-wiring that needs to be done to change from the obsolete 6535B3352 to the 6535-3442? Looking at the pin-out requirements in the 6535 service and maint. manual, and the wall thermostat brochure from RV Products, the freeze sensor contacts that go to pins 1 & 3 are not used, in fact pin 1 on the new thermostat connector is empty and pin 3 is listed as a generator auto-start.
I had no problem. It is only the secondary connector that needs work, the 3 or 4 pin.

The Winny wiring is set up for a 3 pin connector. The new thermostat has a 4 pin connector. I cut off the connectors (leave room to work with the wires; e.g. don't cut too close to the connector) off and swapped them. The orange wire on the new thermostat is not used. Just match the colors on the wires and it will work.
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:57 AM   #42
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Bruce,

I had good luck locating a company that does mobile a/c repair for the Thermo King units on truck refer semi-trailers. I suggest calling a big truck repair shop in your area and find out the company that does the work on refrigerated truck trailers.

I had the unit out, lid off and on a stand that allowed the air to blow out the bottom so unit could run unimpeded for operational testing. I had a leak in a copper line, which he soldered, added a Schrader valve, pulled the vacuum and installed the freon......and was done in 45 min. $115 and I was back in action and once again a happy camper.

Good luck,
Bill
Good tip but it didn't work out. I called several and they declined.

They must be hungrier for business in Nebraska.

Still calling residential types. About to give up and put the unit back in and then (later) take it to an RV place.
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