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Old 08-05-2015, 05:31 PM   #1
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Basement ac

I have a 2009 journey, we spent 3 days at Destin, Fl the air temp. was 94 and inside the coach was 84, air ran all day and finely shut down at 8:00 when it started to cool down little is this normal or do I have a problem. It worked find at night when it was cooler This the first time we have used it in this kind heat. I have checked everything I know to check. Help please
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:02 PM   #2
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Yep
Works like mine.


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Old 08-05-2015, 06:55 PM   #3
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The rule of thumb for air conditioning is that the cool air coming out of the outlets should be about 18-20* cooler that the ambient air in the coach. That said, you should have been able to get close to 75* with an outside temp of 94*. You may only be running on 1 or the 2 compressors in your basement A/C. The easiest way to check is to unplug from the shore line and start your generator. Once the electrical power has stabilized turn on your A/C and monitor the amperage reading on your panel. When the A/C starts, you should see an amperage spike to about 18 amps, then it should slowly drop and level off at about 12 amps. About the time it levels off, you should see another spike to about 25 amps as the 2nd compressor comes in. Once both compressors are running, the amperage should stabilize around 21-23 amps. Before you do this test, make sure your thermostat is set for at lest 3* cooler that the current temp inside your coach. If it turns out that only one compressor is running, you may need a new start capacitor on the one that's down. If both compressors are running, the system may need a charge. Also make sure your return air filter is in good condition and that it is not blocked in such a away that may restrict air flow.
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:59 PM   #4
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I'm in Clermont, FL where it was 93 today and my basement AC had no trouble keeping up. In fact it ran in single compressor mode a lot of the time. These units are notorious for developing separations in the main duct that runs up inside the rear cap. Open the rear "hood" and stick your hand inside the right (passenger) side of the rear cap. If you feel cool air blowing around, you've found the problem.
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johndale View Post
Yep
Works like mine.


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Mine too
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:11 PM   #6
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Considering the insulation package on these coaches, a 20 degree differential between inside and outside during very hot weather is about what you can expect. That was our experience in San Antonio several years ago when it was above 105 degrees for several days.
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:25 PM   #7
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Some things that may help your A/Cs ability to cool the coach:
1. Use something to lessen sun intrusion on windshield. Reflectix, pull drapes, solar shade.
2. Window awnings or day shade on all windows.
3. Reflectix in back of cabinets and closets.
4. Park facing North if possible.
5. Lower tstat early in the day when you're expecting a hot day.
6. Make certain filter is changed often.
7. Check supply plenum for leakage to outside
8. Keep entry door closed as much as possible
9. Make certain #2 compressor is operating.

BTW........The 18 - 20 differential is across evap coil. Not necessarily between outside and inside temps.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:31 AM   #8
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Thanks for the input will be checking today
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:44 AM   #9
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More then one of us have added an air conditioner to the roof. In direct sun light its almost impossible to cool the coach with the basement air or even two roof air units when the coach is in the 40 foot range. My brother in law has a Monaco Ambassador 40 foot with two 15000 btu air units and in direct sun light and over 90 degrees it won't stay in the lower 70's.

cover the windows or park under trees both help a lot.

Happy travels.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:22 AM   #10
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In addition to all those great responses, when in Palms Springs, CA and the temp is over 100 degrees I bring in the slideouts thus making a smaller area for the AC to cool.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:40 AM   #11
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Went out this morning temp in the coach was 84* turn the air on and with in 30 minutes was down to 77*
found no leaks in duck work. Both compressor are working. The coach is in the garage so no heat from the sun.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:49 AM   #12
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I forgot to include that I added a Coleman roof air unit. The roof unit works great however it is very loud compared to the basement unit. There are many posts on how to install the roof unit.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:58 AM   #13
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Did you check the duct work at the rear of the coach where it goes up to the ceiling? There have been a number of incidences where the duct work has separated just above the AC unit. It doesn't have to be a full separation to allow a significant amount of cool air to escape.


Another thing to check is to be sure the circuit breakers for BOTH compressors are in the on position. We had a cooling problem only 1 time with our 2001 Adventurer with the basement air. Luckily it was when we attended the GNR in Forest City. I was cleaning the dust and dirt off the circuit breaker cabinet door and happened to get some inside. When I brushed it off I inadvertently shut off one of the compressor breakers.


The Coleman service rep came over to check the system and found no power to one of the compressors. I opened the panel door to check the breakers and found what I had done. It was a bit embarrassing but no damage other than to the ego.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:11 AM   #14
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I have a 2006 suncruiser 38t with basement air. It never seemed to cool the coach the 2 years I've owned the unit. I took the coach to the shop and had them go through the A/C. I knew both compressors were running at 21-22amps. There was no leakage at the rear cap. Long story short they found nothing wrong with the unit other than dirty. The Evap coils were almost completely stopped up. They recommended removing the unit and chemical cleaning and steam cleaning the coils and fan. After doing this last weekend in Pensacola with about the same temps as Destin, the unit kept it around 75 degrees even in the hottest part of the day. An unbelievable change after the cleaning. There is more air flow from the registers and much colder air. I was really happy with the results other than the price for the cleaning. OUCH! But it did make a great difference.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:23 AM   #15
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All good information, Thanks
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:51 AM   #16
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Think about adding a roof top air conditioner, did they use the duck work that was there or had to run new same for power. Thanks
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:22 PM   #17
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We have had both a duct problem and a problem with the basement air. Regarding the duct, I crawled under the back of the coach and with a flashlight I could see where the duct work had "blown out". I could not reach it and so I took it to the RV dealer. They removed the back cap and re-insulated the duct.
That seemed to work for a year or two. We experienced a problem in hot weather that we could only get a few degrees less than ambient temp outside the coach. We took the coach to the factory and they found and replaced a "bad" compressor. While still under the warranty and the first time we used the AC we got the same results of no real cooling. We next took it to the local RV dealer where it sat for a bit over two weeks. I had to call them to find out about the status only to be told they dont work on the basement AC. I took it to another place and although the said they would fix it they farmed it out. I didn't need the AC until the next spring and when we tried it it still was not cooling. We ended up taking it to a place just north of Shipshewana Indiana. The Amish guy there, Leon Hershberger had the unit out on the floor and found that whoever did the repair put the wrong size capicator (dont remember whether it was the start or run capacitor) in and also did not purge the system prior to putting the new load of freon in. The #1 compressor had failed again.The bottom line is that we ended up replacing the basement air unit with a brand new one. Coleman makes a limited number of new ones. Now the cooling works great. We got about 15-18 degrees inside less than the outside ambient temp.
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:40 PM   #18
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Many answers stating, make sure #2 compressor is operating. My #2 won't operate if only plugged into 30 amp. I must have 50 amp for #2 to operate. On 30 amp it struggles to stay cool. On 50 amp it works fine.
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:53 PM   #19
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As the summers get hotter and hotter air conditioners designed back when it was cooler may not be up to the task..

As others have suggested.. Make sure the coils, epically the condenser (Outside) are clean,, Make sure you are on 50 amp and if all else fails, add a rooftop to help with the problem..... On rooftops. non-ducted units tend to be very noisy,, running the fan full time will help you to mentally filter the noise (But may be stressful). Ducted units are much quieter but still running the fan full time helps to "Mask" the sound. (Just not as stressful) Used to work in an office with a very noisy, non-ducted, unit. You could feel the "Pressure" caused by the noise.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:00 AM   #20
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Garyclegg, no the roof air does not use the duct work of the coach. I and most people remove a ceiling fan and use that opening to install the AC unit.

The statement that it is noisy is true, but, not any noisier then the a roof air without a duct system. Do I have to turn up the TV volume, yes, but I do get the RV cooled down through 98* while parked in direct Florida sun in the summer. I'm on the road now but I don't think I'll see 110* of Phoenix as I won't get there until October. My power for the AC comes up behind the refer and into the basement AC duct then to the roof unit.
I also added a 30A transfer switch so it runs either on the house power or I can plug it into the 20A pedestal plug and power it that way. Ya, that my when I'm on 30A cheater mode.

Hope that answered your question.
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