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10-08-2008, 01:54 PM
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#21
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,653
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Most of us here have been replacing these nylon plugs with these brass </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I guess we could do a poll to find out how many "most of us" is. You've already seen in this discussion that "many of us" continue to use the original nylon plugs...
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Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e TRADED OFF JUL 2023 / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
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10-08-2008, 02:18 PM
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#22
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 359
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by AFChap:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Most of us here have been replacing these nylon plugs with these brass </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I guess we could do a poll to find out how many "most of us" is. You've already seen in this discussion that "many of us" continue to use the original nylon plugs... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Agree. Poll time Paul..
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Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
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10-08-2008, 03:58 PM
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#23
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 193
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I used the nylon plugs. At GNR they even gave them away at Atwood's booth one year.
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2008 Winnebago Vectra 40TD
1999-2008 traded in Suncruiser 90,000 miles
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10-08-2008, 04:14 PM
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#24
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sayre,PA USA
Posts: 178
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I still use nylon, haven't broke one yet.
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Bob, Laurie & Missy
2013 Itasca Cambria 27K
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10-08-2008, 05:07 PM
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#25
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 137
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Ok, I will add my two bits. For all of you that are afraid of the brass plugs, I understand your position, but may I suggest that you may want to look at replacing your brass TP (temperature / Pressure) pop off valve with a plastic one while your at it!
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Greg & Lynn (Full-Timing)
2011 Phaeton 42 QBH / Spartan Chassis
2003 Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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10-08-2008, 05:32 PM
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#26
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,653
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">may want to look at replacing your brass TP (temperature / Pressure) pop off valve with a plastic one </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I wasn't aware that Atwood designed and sold the WH tank with a plastic pop off valve ...if so, I might consider it. But they DID design and sell it with a nylon drain plug...
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e TRADED OFF JUL 2023 / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
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10-09-2008, 10:57 AM
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#27
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Draper, UT
Posts: 309
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Hi Ho: If I were Atwood I may have made the same choice based on cost. The plastic plugs only cost about 2 cents to manufacture, the brass plugs are about 50 cents. Anyway, if the brass plugs were left in for years on end they might be hard to get out. Galvanized plugs would definitely be harder to get out after time. If removed at least once a year the brass plugs seem to work fine.
The best thing to do for OTP valves is not bother them if they don't leak. If they are touched the probability is that they will leak.
Just my two cents worth.
Dirk
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10-09-2008, 01:38 PM
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#28
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Mesa, AZ USA
Posts: 263
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I have pulled the nylon cap from my cold water heater at least 20 times. I wrapped the threads with teflon tape and a re-wrap when necessary.
I tighten it with a pair of needle nose pliers held perpendicular to the threads and make it snug plus 1/2 turn.
Still using the original plug and it works as smooth as can be.
OH, nary a drip.
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Wretched excess is just barely enough.
2002 Itasca Suncruiser - WH Chassis - 35U - 2006 Jeep Liberty
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10-09-2008, 01:54 PM
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#29
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Destin, FL
Posts: 494
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hamguy:
Thx for your insight and specific remarks on the tightening process. I think I'm using too much torque (I also use Teflon tape on the nylon plug, but with a socket wrench).
Thudman
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, W22, 22.5 Whls
Koni FSD's, TracBar rear, SteerSafe, 50A SurgeGuard, Eternabond; 2012 Honda CRV EXL w/Nav & AWD
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10-09-2008, 03:04 PM
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#30
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Fayette Ridges of PA, USA
Posts: 6
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This is the ninth camping season in my TT and I'm still using the original nylon plug. I always drain the HWT before I store my unit for the winter. To loosen/tighten, I use an adjustable wrench that is similar to a Channel Lock.
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2009 GMC Sierra 2500HD | Crew Cab | Standard Box | 4WD | Duramax/Allison
2000 Jayco Eagle 266 | FBS | TT
1986 Coleman Laramie pop-up -- Still in the family!!!
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10-09-2008, 06:40 PM
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#31
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 195
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Since I use mu mh mostly in the winter and I like my hot showers after skiing, I drain my HW after every trip so that's about 10 to 15 times a year since 2001 I have had to replace 1 plug and that was my fault, I over tgihtened it.
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rvcarpenter
Seattle, WA
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10-09-2008, 06:58 PM
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#32
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 2,141
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I have a number of reservations about some methods used in replies, but to each his own.
The Galvanic Series identifies aluminum in the top half (active) in the scale, brass is in the center(neutral). You will note Magnesium is the most active metal in the table; which is why water heaters with a steel tank use it to reduce corrosion to the tank.
FDChief and those using brass plugs are correct. This does not however make anyone else incorrect by using a plastic OEM plug.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA. "We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution." Abraham Lincoln
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10-10-2008, 07:21 AM
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#33
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 137
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My tongue in cheek humor may have only made me laugh, and sent the wrong message to others. The moral of the story is, do either plastic or brass, both work well. There is no such thing as a plastic pop off valve. Hence the brass, a necessary evil. Even with the Atwood aluminum tank, you should drain your HW heater at least annually for that warm and fuzzy feelin'
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Greg & Lynn (Full-Timing)
2011 Phaeton 42 QBH / Spartan Chassis
2003 Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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10-10-2008, 08:29 AM
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#34
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 354
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I copied another forum members model and I built this drain/flush system for under $10.
The elbow after the valve folds up and out of the way. If you haven't flushed your heater lately drain it into a clean bucket and you'll be amazed what flushes out.
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10-10-2008, 11:08 AM
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#35
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 137
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Gary, thanks for the photos. Looks like a simple way to handle the flushing issue. What type of PVC is that?
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Greg & Lynn (Full-Timing)
2011 Phaeton 42 QBH / Spartan Chassis
2003 Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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10-10-2008, 02:20 PM
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#36
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Destin, FL
Posts: 494
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Further to my drain plug activities: when I popped the head of the drain plug off, it was close to Happy Hour, so normal places of biz were closed. (Unable to get parts; but able to partake of HH)). I reasoned: I can turn the WH Bypass Valve to Bypass, have water (at least cold) and not have water leak out of the WH drain (WH switch Off). Not so... water leaked out of the drain, so I had to shut off the source of the water; thus no water to the house. Does this mean my Bypass valve is bad?
Thudman
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, W22, 22.5 Whls
Koni FSD's, TracBar rear, SteerSafe, 50A SurgeGuard, Eternabond; 2012 Honda CRV EXL w/Nav & AWD
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10-11-2008, 04:58 AM
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#37
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Home on the hill in Georgia
Posts: 296
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Very nice job, I'm thinking that's Sch80 PVC. I'm going to pick up some next trip to town. Thanks for the picture. Very professional looking.
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Jerry & Patsy Potter, Taz & Jake Jr.
2000 Winnebago Journey
2006 Ford Explorer 4X4
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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10-11-2008, 09:42 AM
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#38
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 146
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Gary CA: Great job! Did you route the relief valve overboard as well?
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Vectra 40 AD (2004) and towing
PT Cruiser, GMC ZR5 4x4 Quad Cab
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10-11-2008, 11:09 AM
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#39
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 504
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Hi Thudman,
No, the bypass valve is not a duel valve that accomplishes a true bypass. It only prevents cold water from entering the WH so it can be drained. Make sure the power is turned off to the WH when it's drained.
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Have Fun!! Mark & Donalda 04 Horizon 40WD no TOW 90,900+ miles and counting
Triumph Bonneville & Susuki S40 on the back
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10-12-2008, 02:36 AM
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#40
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Destin, FL
Posts: 494
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Thanks, Mark. But in the Bypass position with water source On, why did water come out of the WH drain plug (when the WH had already emptied)?
Thudman
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, W22, 22.5 Whls
Koni FSD's, TracBar rear, SteerSafe, 50A SurgeGuard, Eternabond; 2012 Honda CRV EXL w/Nav & AWD
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